The whole point of having opposing torches in the first place was so I didn't have to spin it.
I am sure it doesn't hurt but I haven't seen any evidence in my results that have lead me to converting my machine.
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The whole point of having opposing torches in the first place was so I didn't have to spin it.
I am sure it doesn't hurt but I haven't seen any evidence in my results that have lead me to converting my machine.
Jmorris I just wanted to say thanks a bunch for the info and annealer wheel. I got mine finished up the other day and ran 1k of 300aac brass and 100 7.62x45 czech.. The thing works like a charm!!!
No problem. How about some photos of it.
any one else been working on there annealer. got pictures ? i have my disk made and temp. mounted on the alum. plate. i have hand turned it with 6br and 223 brass to see if they would slide around. they work ok. i have been too busy to put the rest of it together to try out. i am going to turm it by hand and just count while it is in the 2 flames. i do have the torch brackets and threaded rods to mount the torches on just need the time to finish it. when i start putting it all together i will take some pictures . thanks charles
I just got my disc from Morris the other day. Ordered the torch heads and found a real nice variable DC power supply at work that they were going to throw away. They said it "blew up"...I hooked it up and it works five...go figure! (Circuit Specialists CSI 3003X...0-30VDC/0-3A regulated)
Need to order a motor and start fabricating parts. Looks like a fun project!
Would this motor work to move the plate:
Bühler? Bühler? Anyone?
This 12VDC gear motor from Bühler Motor® (341 4 305 A) spins at approx 40 rpm, draws 25mA, stalls at 1.7A Measures 1-7/8" x 1-5/8" x 1-1/8" with an offset 3/8" x 1-8" flattened and keyed shaft. Includes a pair of 7" leads. Made in Germany
STATUS: IN STOCK
41389P1 BÜHLER 12VDC 40 RPM GEAR MOTOR
$14.50 EACH
http://www.sciplus.com/productImages...x350/51171.jpg
http://www.sciplus.com/p/BHLER-12VDC...AR-MOTOR_51171
And what about this one?
Item# 5-1651
Our Price $8.95
48 RPM 12 VDC MOTOR W/GEAR ASSY
431 In Stock
12 VDC MOTOR W/ GEAR TRAIN
Surplus BUEHLER MOTOR model 1.13.022.212.03 right angle gearmotor. Bronze worm gear off the motor shaft drives two plastic spur gears. Output shaft extends from face of final gear in the gear train.
SPECIFICATIONS
Speed 48 RPM
Voltage 12 DC
Amperage 69 mA (no load)
Rotation Reversible
Duty Continuous
Mount Two tapped holes on 1.658" centers
Shaft 0.33" diam. x 0.33" long
Size 5-7/8" x 1-5/8" x 2-3/4"
Shpg. 1-1/2 lbs.
http://www.surpluscenter.com/images/p5-1651C.jpg
Is there a kit for this yet? I need an annealer, not looking to spend an arm and a leg, but don't want to engineer my own setup.
Maybe my next project
Where did you guys get the bearing for the blade main support. ?
Thanks
Gary
If you look back at mine I went with three ball casters that keeps the wheel level as well as act like a bearing. No bearing is necessary for the center either; the center bolt just keeps the wheel from getting off track. Works like a charm.
walt
Walt's way is easier than what I did but I used oil impregnated bronze bushings. You can get them at a good hardware store or any bearing supply.
Here is one a friend and I just threw together, using two oil light bushings.
Thanks for the info, I got my blade the other day and am getting parts together for the build.
How to you guys keep track of when a batch of brass needs to be annealed ? Or do you anneal it every time ?
Just curious.
Gary
Almost all of my brass comes from 3 gun matches and most of it is not mine. So I anneal every case.
Are those brake lines done with flare or compression fittings ?
Thanks
Gary
A double flare.
I have been following along with the case annealing thread and have built mine from the parts listed on here. I have noticed that when my cases get to the case spin station that they do not like to spin all the time. I think it is because they are not perfectly centered on the spin motor.
To run the machine for various different brass i.e. 223 to 300 Win Mag I will have to change the way the blade advances so it centers the case on the motor. I have come up with two ways to center the case.
1. Move the motor slightly to accommodate the different size, but this may leave a gap when running the smaller cases and they may not feed correctly.
2. Change the size of the bolt/shaft that comes in contact with the "Saw Blade" to advance to the next case .
I suspect that the second one would be the easiest to do. Anyone have any thoughts on this? Also would a coarser spinning platform be better?
On a side issue. I'm working on coming up with a CAD template for the table top that would work with the components used in this build. Once complete you could have a water/LASER cut for the top so all the components would fall in place nicely. I'll keep everyone up to date.
Mine will stop some times.
I adjusted the spinning wheel to almost as slow as possible.
That way it keeps rotating (slowly) for most of the time the case is in the flames.
Seems to work for me.
Thanks. I'll give it a try.