Stick works fine to cut but how hard is it on an Al. mould and how square is the base? If the sprue is hard enough to require a 'whack' it tends to raise the plate when cutting and is hard on the corner of the mould.
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Stick works fine to cut but how hard is it on an Al. mould and how square is the base? If the sprue is hard enough to require a 'whack' it tends to raise the plate when cutting and is hard on the corner of the mould.
quiettime,
I am new for casting as well (I use a propane Camping stove and Lee molds) and have allways a wrinkle Problem no matter what I do to get the lead hot and as well the mold.
I found the proper pouring technique is crucial. I live in an 220Volt Country as well and was thinking in getting the Lee 220 V furnace as well in order to get rid of the wrinkles. But I can live witht the wrinkled bullets.
What did you do to get rid of wrinkled bullets?
I just joined here to say thank you for all the helpful information here In This post. Been lurking a while and reading a lot.
Welcome to the forum STIHL, hope you pick up a lot of good info. Keep shooting, Jim
Gear, that's a excellent post, I've been casting since '55, 38/40 win. '73, in the fowling shot a decade ago or so "Kitty-Litter" was often mentioned, has that lost it's appeal? nobody seems to mention it in Quick Posts, Fivefang
Gear, I want to thank you for taking the time to write this out. I keep a link to this thread and to Goodsteel's "Consistency Applied" on my desktop and any time things get quiet around the house I read them. I glean something new each time. As a newbie I find your information extremely helpful.
Nice write-up!
Check out the Etekcity Lasergrip 1080 Non-contact Digital Laser Infrared Thermometer -58℉~1022℉ for $19 on Amazon.
The laser temp thermometers like the above, don't work well when shined on the surface of freshly fluxed "shiny alloy. The laser bounces, is reflected, by the mirror like surface of the lead. Gives a false reading.
I too have one of the H.F. el-cheapo laser temp dohickies, when I use mine I drop a steel nut into the lead to give a black target for the laser.
I really don't need it much, my pot is controlled by my pid, which gives me constant temp readings. I've tested the pid, I trust it's readings.
Infrared units do not work for casting (I spent money before I found out they don't work).
The lead is too reflective and the "beam" bounces off.
Read post #4 >> HERE <<, and follow his link.
I wasn't going to post in this thread, as it's chock full of great information, and I have more failure stories than I do good advise.....
But... that being said, I've watched this fellows technique with regard to timing and tapping of the mould.
In my (novice) opinion, this guy is worth watching:
https://youtu.be/IBkMRhB6RqM
Thanks, glad you like it.
Yea, he's pretty cool and very knowledgeable.
This post from Gear ought to have it's own separate sticky and be required reading for beginning casters, before they ever fire up their first pot of alloy. I hadn't cast in a lot of years, until last weekend when my SOL wanted to learn about the craft. I was using two Ideal iron molds and fell into the trap of raising the pot temp until I got "good" bullets. Common sense took over after I had raised the PID temp to 810* in order to cure the wrinkles. Shut the operation down and started perusing the stickies and found Gears post most excellent treatise on mold temperature. Bought a hot plate the next morning and preheated the mold to 325*. Started casting and all bullets were perfect. The knowledge existing on Cast Boolits is phenomenal. Thanks, Gear
T
good job. good post
I have been using Tel-Tru thermometers for 5 years.They last longer and stay accurate.Usually cheaper then the competiton too.
I too have been blessed by Gear's post. Thank you. Thanks to the OP and others too.
Personal knowledge of facts and techniques, translated into simple terms, presented free.
Thanks GEAR
Good info on your pouring technique, esp the alloy temp trick.