Thanks for the help. Think i finish off that mix today, something to do
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Thanks for the help. Think i finish off that mix today, something to do
I think I have read where the cupping helps to seal the hot gasses and prevent leading.
Not sure what goes on, but figure the cupping effect would swage to the full diameter of the bore. Preventing leading and increasing the sealing effect of the gas check.
hoping to recover some boolits and GCs when the snow melts.
Here is a pic of some already recovered. An "inny and an "outy".
Attachment 134618
how much harder is a cast bullet dropped in water from the mold than one allowed to cool naturely ,I don't have or have use of the testing equipment needed , I am currently making 429421 keith style pills out of straight ww the bullets come out of the mold at 257 gn thx in advance
From my understanding they are not any harder. The wq boolits just reach the hardness level when you quench them as opposed to air cooled that harden over time.
thx for the reply do you have a way to determine the brunell hardness without the test equipment, possably by the weight of the bullet comeing out of the mold ????
Sorry but not that i know.
Try this thread and although it will never replace a hardness tester it will help. http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...s-with-pencils
I wanted to kill a few primers so filled the case (45-70) with WD-40 and let them sit overnight. I tested one out in a vise, hitting the primer with a center punch, and darned if they all fired like that. These were CCI standard lrp's. Boy, they sure do make them good.
Yeah, they're tougher than we think. Short of smashing or burning I don't know of a reliable method. Maybe you could melt the priming compound out with a solvent.
Conventional wisdom says no oil on the primers. I would have thought WD-40 would be certain primer death.
Primers are better than we may expect.
Hitting them with a center punch seems like a bad idea to me.
Let me recommend you put them in your gun and fire them.....dale
Was wearing safety glasses.
Why dont you just de prime them? I have done it several times without any going off you just go slow.
Put the primer on an anvil and hit it with a hammer. Doesn't take much of a hammer swing either.
You know, I've been hand loading and shooting for 20 years, and I just found my first dead primer last month.
When I was a LEO firearms instructor I recall reading of a incident where a police officer would use WD-40 to spray his revolver about once a month to protect it from rust. Only problem he left the 38 special shells in the revolver cylinder when spraying the gun. Later, after doing this 2-3 times, he got into a gun fight and had all six shells fail to fire. The WD-40 had creep between the primer and primer pocket wall and contaminated the primers when the shells were examined by lab personnel.
Understood... I'm just relaying what I've done and that it has never caused me a problem. Since the anvil was fairly low, the worst that could have probably happened would have been a piece of the primer shrapnel to have hit the legs of my jeans. The hammer face would have prevented the shrapnel from traveling upwards towards my face. The potential blast area would be limited by the face of the anvil and the face of the hammer. I dispose of primers that I have either mangled in the press or had to remove for whatever reason that way.
Water is the"best" primer killer, some years ago I had 100 primed brass stored in garage that was prone to mild flooding the box of brass was on a shelf
at head hight so not in the flood water I loaded ten rounds to check the load none of them fired running the remaining cases through the rifle none of the rest of the primers fired, since then I have used water to deactivate primers with about 98% success the odd one will still fire after a couple of days in water after a week has been 100% successful,
Robert.