Same projectiles, or did you switch from a micro groove to a conventional grease groove boolit?
Printable View
No, GG boolits, Micro-groove barrel on the rifle.
Ben's Red is a very soft and slick lube, so it's possible it may not shoot the exact load you were using with alox.
If your not at some maximum load, maybe tweaking the powder charge up or down a bit May work.
I'm surprised that a load that shot so well would change so much by changing lubes. But, what do I know, I've been using alox lubes (NRA 50-50 and tumble lube) for forty years, this is the first time I've used anything else. Deer season is two weeks away, so any load tinkering will have to wait until the first of the year. Thank you all for your input, I'll make some changes and post my results.
Centershot,
I don't know that it will. All i can say is that Ben's Red shoots tighter groups with the same loads than any lube i've ever tried in my rifles....even when i worked those loads up with another lube.
I also like the way my first shots are always in the group no matter if it's a clean or fouled bore.
As far as tumble lubing with straight alox, it always purged badly every 5 to 7 shots with me.
Then i tried Ben's BLL tumble lube and it has worked as well as the Ben's Red lube for me and surprisingly(to me) with the same loads.
Both of Ben's lubes have worked for a ton of other folks i've recomended it for too.
NRA 50/50 is a very good lube, but didn't work out as well over all the temp. ranges, nor higher velocities that i shoot sometimes in my rifles.
Bottom line is that some bbls. vary in what they like and if yours likes what your using i would stick with it for sure.
Good luck with your hunting...hope you get a freezer full(and me too lol):grin:
Hope you get the Ben's Red working for you, i believe in it 100%.[smilie=2:
Take your cooling pan of Ben's lube, turn off the freezer or refrigerator, and set the pan on the shelf. In about 10 minutes you will have cold lube and a defrosted frig or freezer.
what a great thread
Johnson's paste wax is no more. Substitutions for it???
Shiloh
I think the carnuba wax is what is needed. I’m thinking any of the wood paste waxes will work as long as they are carnuba based.
Sam Sackett
When making Ben's Red, I've substituted this.
So far, I cannot tell any difference in this and the Johnson's Paste wax.
Ben
https://i.imgur.com/ElyfiCx.jpg
I made a batch with Min Wax, works fine, first batch so nothing to compare it to.
If it shoots well and meets your needs , you don't have to compare it to anything.
Ben
SDS / MSDS sheets are not required to disclose all ingredients, only those related to safety matters. The Trewax SDS sheet doesn’t give anything helpful, but the JPW SDS does. The proportions can add up to 100%, but I wouldn’t take that as a guarantee that there are no undisclosed ingredients. Without further ado…
Attachment 320752
Two possible DIY JPW recipes…
https://forums.ybw.com/threads/what-...lve-in.121209/Quote:
…two recipes in an old "Woodworkers Pocket Book" by Charles H Hayward for making furniture creams.
In both 6 parts carnauba wax, 3½ parts japan wax and 1½ parts paraffin wax are melted together.
In one that is then dissolved in about the same quantity of pure American turpentine to form a paste which is stirred well and to which is added a little french chalk and ammonia.
In the second recipe it is dissolved in 12 parts of pure American turpentine. 3 parts of white curd soap are shredded into 30 parts hot water. The two are then stirred together while hot and allowed to cool. This cleans as well as polishes.
Looking in a few places, it seems melting Carnauba wax into other waxes helps to get it dissolved into acetone/turpentine/mineral spirits. Sometimes you have to gently warm up the solvent… which you probably don’t want to inhale.
I’ve never seen that info in an SDS. I don’t know how items are chosen for required reporting in an SDS, but if it’s not on the NFPA diamond then it’s probably not required.
Attachment 320795