This is great. If I could get my household stuff sorted out from the move, I might be able to set my reloading stuff up in the new garage. This is definitely on the project list.
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This is great. If I could get my household stuff sorted out from the move, I might be able to set my reloading stuff up in the new garage. This is definitely on the project list.
Got mine almost complete. Used LRL350's as a model. Major differences is I used 3 small ball casters spaced 120 degrees apart to stablize the 'saw blade' and moved the drop hole a couple of inches further along the perimeter.
Didn't have oak and used some nice 1x2's.
Got the wood sealed and beginning my final assembly. Will have pictures in a few days
walt
Walter Laich did you finish your annealer and have pictures ? What type of speed control did you use ? thanks
no pictures yet--turns out my camera uses a Smart Media card and they are no longer made. Getting one off of ebay and it should be here in a few days.
got it done and already used it on 750 .45 Colt cases. took awhile but it was fun to use the a new machine.
Used the same speed controls that RLR350 did. They work just as advertised.
I'll get pics as soon as possible
walt
here are some pics in random order:
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Some of you guys sure are wood workers. What bearing did you use for the center Walter? I read you used rollers to make the "blade" stable, the center one must able to rotate in any direction?
the bolt in the center just keeps the blade centered, no bearings at all. I used a sheet rock hawk as the metal base and it has a threaded fitting on the bottom. I drilled and taped it carefully all the way through so the bolt would thread in from the top.
The rollers are 120 degrees apart which keeps the blade stable. There is enough weight on the rollers that the blade doesn't move on its own. I drilled through the metal base plate so the blade would be closer to the base. Both .45 Colt and 45-70 brass are fine with this arrangement.
Attachment 62681
Attachment 62682
Walter Where did you get the rollers and where did you buy the speed controlers? i like the sheet rock hawk. i think it is cheaper thar buying a 12x12 alum 1/8" .
3/8" rollers: http://www.robotshop.com/search/sear...&keywords=ball caster
speed controlers: http://store.qkits.com/moreinfo.cfm/MX033
thanks Walter. i am going a different rute on the saw disk. i am using a 10" x 1/4" steel disk with 16 holes 9/16" . i will turn it by hand to start with. when i add a turning motor i will drill 1/4" in holes on the outer edge and put in 1/4" studs for the arm to turn the disk. i am doing like you did on the torch arms and i am making them out of alum. i am using the dry wall mud board like you did and making a wooden frame for wcery thing. i came up with hard plastic slide disk you use on the bottom of things you want to slide around on the floor. i will use 3 like you did with the rollers. i have the case roating motor. what did you put on it for the brass to sit on while turning? i was think about using a round alum stock or a wood dowel . still getting every thing together. thanks charles
for the spinnner I made a cylinder out of wood on my lathe. The motor for it has a 5 mm shaft and luck would have it that I had the drill bit.
I have since topped it with a metal washer to keep the heat from the wood. It probably doesn't need this unless you are annealing short cases.
I did 750 .45 Colt cases the first time out and the wood top got a bit charred. Thinking of putting an O ring under the washer to form an air space--keeps the wood cooler.
did you mean the wood cylinder got hot or dod you mean the wood frame got hot ?
wood cylinder. decided going to go with 4 strips of cork radiating out from center on it so air can come and go. O ring would have sealed off the area under the washer.
i am going to get a 1" alum cylinder cut 1" long and have a 5mm hole driled and side hole and tap it for a set screw. i got all yo wood and 2 new torches yesterday. should get my disk today. i will take pictures.
pics are great--my camera was down until after the build was complete
The one that I am building looks a lot like yours Walter. I used an old metal cabinet knob that I had laying around for the case spinner. I flattened the top on the grinder as it was a bit rounded and drilled and tapped it for a small set screw to mount on the motor. Hopefully it will stay cool enough to not cook the motor.
I don't think you'll have problems with the motor getting hot. Main reason my spinner gets warm is I'm annealing .45 Colt brass which is short compared to rifle cases. Also did 750 cases first time. Going to do them in lots of 240 (what I shoot at a 2-day SASS match), hoping that will keep heat down
Will let you know how that goes.
w
So are you building & selling? Full monty $ ? Plans $? Inquiring minds want to know what this great addition to our reloading is gonna cost full up :razz: Great job.
I'M JUST LOVING THIS WHOLE THREAD!
"I'm using a 12v transformer from an old answering machine and a dash light dimmer out of an '86 RX-7. "
You guys crack me up! Ingenious!
how good, bad, or ok is it having 2 torches hitting the case, one from each side and the case NOT SPINNING ??