No reason it won't work with the 8x56R cases. Whether converting to large or small boxer primers will depend on the size of berdan primer the cases have.
Larry Gibson
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Why not just use berdan primers? They're becoming more and more readily available. RCBS makes a great decapping tool. I've reloaded berdan for years . . . ..
Can these handle full power loads?
ok, ordered the small swager. I do have the large one but we are shooting for small rifle primers. What if one opens it up and uses large rifle primers and swages the primer pocket with a steel bearing?
I've done the bearing method before. While I like the small primer method better.
Does it have to be #18 drill?
Does it have to be #18 drill?
Find a drill bit that you have similar to a primer flash hole and a small rifle primer. That's what I did and the conclusions I came to
I've tried it with a hand drill with no success. I don't have a drill press, so will have to rethink and try something different.
Fired some today that I used both the lr(ball bearing swaged) and Sr versions (this thread). Both were very excellent!
Full power or lighter loads?
Full power. No gas leaks and pockets still tight.
I have no idea what a 7.65X54R is. I'm assuming you mean 7.62x54R (as in Russian Mosin Nagant ammo) Most of those cases have a very large primer. You should be able to use the same process but you'll be using a large rifle boxer primer and a larger drill bit to cut out the center of the spent primer.
Be careful what Berdan primers you buy. Some are for the 7.62x39 round and are shorter than the large rifle type Berdan primers and may be too far recessed into the case for the firing pin to properly strike the primer.
Also beware these smaller primers apparently may not reliably ignite large rifle cases.
and I have no idea what you mean with 2.67x54R
The primers listed as for NATO will work in most large rifle Berdan primed cases.
You can but you have to get set up for using the berdan primers; depriming tool, different primer seating punches (sizes) sometimes, take pin out of dies and put back when using boxer cases, the berdan sizes don't feed well or at all in auto priming systems, etc. etc.
The method I describe is easy to do and once done it's done and you're good to go with boxer primers. Either method the choice is yours, I prefer to convert and not mess with berdan primers is all.
Larry Gibson
No, it has to be a size that removes the bottom of the primer w/o removing the side of the berdan primer left in the primer pocket. You can use a bit larger and a bit smaller size. Just this last week I converted some .303 Brit cases (South African awesome brass cases) to SR boxer primers. I use a hand drill and a 5/64" drill for the falsh hole and a 5/32" drill to remove the bottom of the primer and remove most of the remaining anvil. Worked like a charm.
Larry Gibson
I tried the ball bearing method also and no matter what I did I always had considerable gas leakage with some. The bearing only swages the top of the primer pocket and not down to the bottom of the pocket sides.
Leaving the sides of the berdan primer in the pocket provides complete support for boxer primer sides just like a normal primer pocket.
Larry Gibson
The key is;
Have a vise to hold the case
Center the firing indentation in the primer with a sharp center punch
Use the correct size drills that are sharp at low speed
Drill the flash hole 1st....it will then keep the large drill bit centered to remove the bottom of the primer leaving the sides
Go slow, slow is smooth, smooth is fast
It's not difficult but will take a few cases to develop the "feel".....once you get it it's like riding a bicycle...you'll just get on and rde again....
Larry Gibson