I would go with either the red copper or metallic gold. What kind of problems are you having?
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Gateway - the green gave me a hard plastic ring in the bore at the barrel band when run faster than 1200. I was just experimenting - I PC my rifle boolits for other reasons.
I'm using red copper for my rifle rounds. I shoot a 180gr .311 gas check with 27gr of imr 4895 with a CCI military primers.
When I upped the powder to 28gr the accuracy improved, at 29gr accuracy was great but I started to show pressure signs so I'm going to load with faster powder...I'm thinking imr 3031.
At 29gr I was figuring 2000fps or so.
LeverE will give you lower pressure and it is much slower than 4895. I tried it in my 24" 308 upper and it worked fine.
Are 2 coats of gold good for 9mm or should I use 3?
2 is fine.
Generally two coats is enough, especially when you have some experience with coating techniques.
Thicknesses of coatings can vary according to your individual process methods.
For people who are perfectionists, applying three very thin coats does produce a much better and even finish, and, with 3 coats, you reduce the possibility of surfaces not being coated adequately.
In most instances, using 3 very thin coating ends up using less coating overall, and appearance is great and performance is great.
As you become more experienced, you can achieve 3 coat results with with two coats.
Hope it helps with your decisions.
Maybe, next year the " new nano hi-tek forever stain" ? Just coat one time. Prob one color.
Well... so much for keeping it quiet, gunslick.
You just let the cat out of the bag.
This week, I'm testing the new HI-TEK bright red, pink, purple, sky blue and ocean blue and silver.
well I am not having great results with the green. Is my range lead alloy too soft for this?
Shooting through....
Glock 19
S&W mp .40
RI 1911 .45
All are seeing leading.
Coating passes smash and acetone test.
Dunno what I am doing wrong here!?!
Pulled several for each caliber and seeing no removal of coating.
well are you saying that speed matters here?
Does a slow bullet have a friction coefficient that is more abrasive to the coating?
Fast makes the coating "slicker"?
Joe can you please chime in here? Kinda in a hard spot right now and need to have some real data not "this might help".
Thanks
Hot dang, and BBQ'ed aligator tail. I must have ESP.
Trevor
If everything seems to be going well, you have obviously overlooked something.
Please enlighten us with your load data...This forum is about helping and not about vague responses.
Is there any load data to support this coating?
Is it a bullet coating or an experiment?..
In my humble opinion if you are going to sell a true bullet coating there needs to be data to support it not just "this is what worked for me" post from random folks!
Until the maker puts some sort of start point that works for this stuff I am calling complete BS.
Are there any ammo manufactures making completed ammo with this?
If so who?
I don't want to hear from bullet manufacturers because they can play the "lets rule this out" game all day long.
Supposedly this has been used for decades but there is no published data?
If there is anyone out there feel free to chime in..
If I am wrong....I'll shave my head!
TES - my first try with the green was not good. Second try - 40, 9 & 30/30 were much better. My oven is PID controlled so I know the temp and time. Shooting as cast .358 caused leading, sizing 357 worked fine. I suspect scraping in the throat. My alloy is low Sb, cooked an extra 30 min @ 350F and WD. Loaded a bunch of lower Sb & AC to compare with normal alloy AC. These have set a week, hope to shoot next week. I shot the 30/30 no GC @ ~1200, 0.310 from a Marlin that likes 0.310. No leading. Running faster gave a mess but no observable leading. The 40 load of 231 is min. Hodgdon load for jacketed. 9 is same as factory 115 jacketed - from 3 XDs guns. No leading. friction coefficient is a function of the materials and force applied. It doesn't change with fps unless the coating goes soft.
So your observations are a direct contradiction to the sweet spot of velocity for the previous post......jeeze
Is there any freaking data for this or is it an experiment?
When I load copper I don't get you did this wrong or try this that or the other or the die set you are using is wrong try these instead.
I want to see what you are doing if you have success loading this.
Powder
Primers
Powder weight
dies
bullet..weight, shape, alloy....etc
Bake times
acetone used (brand)
OAL
Crimp
fsp across a chrony
and on and on..........
Just like you would see in a manual.
Other wise it is just a guess isn't it?
Can you really sell a product that works in one case and not in most?
No..you can't.
Yes. He can. It works for me.
Reloading manuals are items of reference that give you guidelines. Its up to you to find what works in your guns. Just like the suggestions in this thread. They are suggestikns for starting points. If you dont want to work up your own loads either stick with what you know or buy commercial. No need to bash what works just because you dont understand it.
Shot some 230RN 45ACP this afternoon along with some 38 Specials in 158SWC and 148 DEWC.
Bullseye powder, Starline Brass, Federal Primers, My Castings and My Coatings of HI-TEC GOLD
purchased from Donnie at Bayou Bullets.
LOW SMOKE - - - -NO LEADING, I do like that.
You can load the COATED projectiles with CAST info from loading manuals.
Bayou Bullets, Gateway Bullets and SNS Casting have coated bullets for sale.
I coated them myself and baked in a BREVILLE BRO800XL "SMART" Oven ($250).
The Breville oven has GREAT heat control for consistency of the COATING CURING.
RELOADING for YOUR FIREARMS requires WORK to establish what YOUR SPECIFIC FIREARM DESIRES.
Lazy way out is to strictly shoot commercially loaded ammo and be happy with it.
What was your lead hardness or BHN? What was the alloy... What was your starting load and with what? Where did you end up on your load? What type of press was used and which dies...and on on and on. These are the things that are going to help people reading this thread and helping them to purchase this product. This is my point there is no real data for a starting point. post your load data so we can start somewhere.
100% wheel weight alloy. Haven't tested hardness. Mold used was a lee 200 grain round nose flat point in .45 acp. Boolits were coated with 5 parts gold color, 1 part catalyst, 7 parts acetone. Allowed to dry overnight and baked at 375 for 10 minutes. After cooling overnight they were resized to .452. Coated again using same mixture and allowed to dry overnight. Baked at 375 again for 10 minutes. Cooled overnight and coated again. Another overnight drying and another bake for 10 at 375. 4.8 grains of Titegroup with cci primers and winchester brass. All loaded on a Hornady lock n load AP. Heres a pic of the rounds fired from a Springfield loaded parked. 5 rounds each from the 5, 7, 10, 15, 20, and 25.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/12/23/a2avapur.jpg
TES,
The 45's were loaded on a Dillon Square D, the 38's on a Hornady LNL-AP.
I use a combination of Dies (Dillon, Hornady, Reading).
I only shoot handguns INDOORS and not in Competition.
The Hardness of my lead about 8-8 1/2 Brinell using a Cabine Tree Tester.
The LEAD was mostly STICK ON WHEEL WEIGHTS and a LITTLE TIN (60/40 solder).
The SOFT LEAD surprised an AUSSIE an he'll give it a try, his alloy is mostly 15/16 Brinell.
Most commercially HI-TEK coated projectiles are 92-6-2(tin) alloys.
38 Special loads were 2.7/2.8 grains Bullseye with both 158 SWC and 148 DEWC seat to crimp groove. (Lee Molds)
45 ACP 230RN were 4.0/4.2 Grains Bullseye. 1.250 C.O.L. (N.O.E. Mold).
Projectiles were HI-TEC "GOLD" coating. (mine, not Commercially coated ones).
Coatings were GOLD 5 Parts, 1 Part Catalyst, 7 Parts Acetone.
Put 7 parts Acetone in a 20 ounce "COKE" Bottle (won't melt).
Add 1 Part Catalyst, SHAKE-SHAKE-SHAKE.
Add 5 Parts GOLD Color, SHAKE-SHAKE-SHAKE.
I usually coat 5 pounds of projectiles at a time.
FIRST LIGHT COAT SHOULD BARELY SHOW COLOR.
COATING THE LUBE GROOVES IS NOT NECESSARY,
SOME SHOOTERS ARE HAVING MOULDS MADE WITH NO LUBE GROOVES.
I WAS using 2 COATINGS & BAKING, 380F for 10 Minutes each coat..
I'm Trying 3 LIGHTER COATINGS NOW.
Projectiles sized to .452, 38's were sized to .358.
You need to SLUG YOUR FIREARMS to check for their size.
I can not get the forum to work on my computers. I can only see it here in my phone. Anyone got any idea what to di? I cleared the dna like it said to do. But still no go.
Trevor,
Can you try to RELOAD the FORUM on your computer?
Trevor,
They went to a NEW SERVER.
Tes, could you offer more specifics on your procedures? Specific steps of your coating process and your load data. There may be many ways that work for different people with their guns, but if we had the specifics of your process someone here might be able to see something that you are missing. One thing I have seen that can cause a problem is Lee FCDs unless they are used very carefully. In short, the load data should be the same as published lead load data for a specific bullet profile. The only real variables should be the coating process and making sure the coating isn't damaged in the loading process.
Thanks to Beagle333 for the instructions..
I'm Baaaaaacccccckkkkkkkk hehehehe..
TES. the process is really quite easy.
reloading is also customizing ammo to your gun.
what works for others may not work for you.
Instead is pizzing and moaning and wanting everyone to do your work for you, how about having a go and trying things for yourself like others have suggested.
Reloading is not an exact science.
I use dillon and lee dies. I load coated bullets in 7 different calibres and guns.
I use commercial coated and home coated. All work.
The only issue I have had was in 40S&W using a lee carbide factory crimp die. this caused the bullets to be undersized to the bore and it severely leaded.
I have run light loads and heavy loads with fast and slow powders in all calibres from 9mm to 45ACP.
Trial and error, my friend. trial and error.
TES - no contradiction. I shoot a light load as that is what I like. In 40-165 FB with HP38 you only get 100 fps, 1K psi variation from min to max load so what fps sweet spot are you wanting? Not enough variation for any effect on the coating, prob not even for the alloy. Oh, mixed brass, cci spp, RCBS die & cut down 41WM M expander, 38P M for the 9.
So do the commercial casters make bullets that work in every gun or just theirs? If I make factory loads they might lead in one gun and not in others? That's my point Trev. Its really hard to make a Magic bullet for everyone's different guns. I am running an ammo business and can't make each round specifically for a 1000 different guns.
I only put enough crimp on the case to allow function. I have pulled many bullets now with the coating still in place. I still get leading.
I have worked up the loads from minimums to max and it does not help. Well the amount of leading changes but it is still there.
TES - now you got to your real problem. Your criteria for selling ammo is different from selling boolits. Personally, I'd go to dry tumbling PC for your application. I've not had any problems in any rifle or pistol - definitely more durable, tougher & less critical process. I can load it just as jacketed. You might look into the Valspar paint method.
The hi-tek 500 mold release lube helped me alot and hi-tek-supercoat sticks better. You know i like to call it stain instead of coat.
Tes,
We do not make projectiles that work for every gun. We make projectiles in various shapes, sizes, weights, and hardness. It is up to the individual reloader to find the projectile application for his or her own gun.
Do we make projectile that work just in our guns? Yes and no. I use 98% of the same projectiles that I produce and are for sale to the general public.
Do I have molds that I use only for my guns? You bet ya.
If you are running an ammo business, you need to find a load that works with majority of your customers and produce that. If the customer calls and what's something different, then you charge accordingly. I have a few guys that want custom sized projectiles. They call and order and I make accordingly. Other than that, it's the "standard" size projectile!
I don't see Remington, Winchester, etc etc making various loads for every gun. They adjust the powder to match the gr of the projectile used.
I totally get what you are saying...that's what I have made for my clients. I am starting to think that this coating is not up to speed for an ammo business...that is unless I am doing something wrong and am just not seeing it. I'm not giving up yet. I am trying a few more things before I call it quits on Hi tek coating
I have my 06 and I have a small ammo business. I have sold 1000's of round coated with hytek. Not one complaint. I load for 9,40,.380,.357,.45acp,.38 special, etc. All coated with hytek. I use black in lower pressure stuff .380 and .45 and gold on the rest. The biggest thing is getting some old timers to try a colored boolit lol. Once they try it they love it. I use hardball lead and load to sammi lengths and crimps and run nothing hot. Secret is in the consistent heat in the oven. Experiment and waste time and resources or just buy an accurate consistent oven.
TES.
Of all the commercial cast and coated used here in OZ, there would be less than 1% of users have issues with them. And most of their problems are from using the lee seat/crimp die in a pro 1000. This scraped the coating off.
Winchester Australia have used commercial cast and coated pills to offer cheaper reloaded 40S&W and 9mm training/practice ammo to the various Australian police forces when they have been converting to Glock22 and Glock17 and the MP5. All the fired brass gets collected and sent back to winchester for reloading again. My Pistol club's outdoor ranges are used by the local police for their training venue.
Coated loads that work in every 9mm I have ever tried.
125gr Conical BB over 4.2gr AP-70
125gr RN over 4.5gr W231
45ACP
230gr RN over 4.6gr AP-50
230gr over 6.0gr Power Pistol
230gr over 5.4gr AP-70
200SWC over 5.0gr W231
38 Super Minor load
125gr RN over 4.6gr AP-70
38 Supercomp Major load
125gr Conical BB over 8.3gr AP-100
All the AP powders are available in the US as Hodgdon powders.
Tes,
Give a BREVILLE BRO800XL "SMART" Convection Oven ($250) a look.
I do 5 pounds of alloy batches, coat and bake.
I think Gateway Bullets does 35 pound batches.
OVEN TEMPERATURE "ACCURACY" and holding that temp with a fast recovery time
is the SECRET.
Many tabletop models have POOR temps and also overshoot temp.
They also on many models CAN'T REACH THE TEMPS.
Larger operations use Pizza Ovens.
Some folks put external temp controllers on their ovens too. (the Breville works fine by itself)
I cast 5000 9mm yesterday.
going to cast a few 1000 45 pills today along with a few 1000 44's.
Starting to get a bit warm this time of year (100 to 110 Deg F)
Waiting on the care package from Hitek Joe with the new colours.
Really want to try the Rudolf nose Red and the new Elf green.
You really need to find a better naming regime Trevor, I can even feel Joe wince from here!!
I have stopped testing loads in my 9mm until early next year. I have a new barrel on order so developing loads for this one is a moot point. Roll on 2014!!