I too commandeered the spring from a pen
Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
Printable View
Who has made their own output springs. I know the 1/2” OD stainless brake line protector is supposed to be a replacement for the large output spring, but what about the small? Will 3/8” work? Anybody got pics of their homemade output springs?
Glorious victory: https://youtu.be/UI1u2Rlxl6I
It was a pretty complex project, especially using the light barrier. I've done a quick post about how it went down for me:
https://thehebrewhammer.net/2020/09/...tfeeder-build/
I've watched this video like 5 times and I can't tell what is making the bullets flip. Normally the nose down ones "fall" off the ledge and are maneuvered into the upright position.
I got some of this stuff. But remember you need the id of the tube not the od like I did the first time. Other than that it works great, but don't pick the free shipping you will get it 3 months later. Pay a little bit on the shipping its worth it.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3281...7c604c4dmmoJuq
My theory is that the flipper arm is destabilizing them and causing them to fall over. I have since adjusted the ramp slightly so that the "line" was oriented a bit closer to the bullet nose. Oddly enough, it didn't work at all with the turning plate pushed all the way in. Physics is weird. I assume the tilt/attitude of the bullet feeder itself is probably also interacting with all of this.
The flipper arm is there to push out poorly oriented bullets (not fully in the slot) and get the bullets fully against the back of the slot.
The turning plate works (along with gravity) by the upper flat supporting the base of a bullet but allowing the nose of a bullet to slide down to the lower surface and be pulled outward and horizontal.
Once the bullet is horizontal the nose strikes the turning ramp forcing the bullet back to vertica but now correctly oriented.
The nose down plate works in a similar manner except it drops any nose down bullets with the first ramp and flips everything that gets past.
The included flipper plate has a straight ramp, i made my own with a spline curve that allows a few more degrees of rotation for the nose to fall before ramping outward. It also has a hole for a screw to positively set the position making setup changes easier.
Getting there
Attachment 267232
How long does it normally take for the base to print, I am showing around 43 hours and 440 grams of pla, that sounds really long to me.
printer settings from Creality Slicer for Ender5
Layer Height .2mm
shell thickness .8mm
fill bottom/top 1.2mm
fill density % 45
Print Speed 75 mm/s
Filament 1.75mm
flow rate 100%
nozzle size .4mm
Thanks I knew I was doing something wrong.
Mine printed in just under 2 days. 6-8 layers and I think 10% infill.
I believe it was cnc kitchen on YouTube that showed that wall/"shell" thickness had more an effect on strength than infill.
Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
Anyone know where I can get the scad files? I need to make changes for my motor and accept a bolt for the shell plate