1)i bought a NOE blank mold from Al.
2) took to local CNC shop to cut 4 holes
3) no lube rings
4) makarov nose but for 380
5) i size them after hi-tek @ .355
6)111gr
7) flat base.
http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/...psc1f568e3.jpg
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1)i bought a NOE blank mold from Al.
2) took to local CNC shop to cut 4 holes
3) no lube rings
4) makarov nose but for 380
5) i size them after hi-tek @ .355
6)111gr
7) flat base.
http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/...psc1f568e3.jpg
Ok this looks Cool and sorta handy,,
What Mileage are you guys seeing?
say from a 230Gn 45acp Bullet?
or whatever size for that matter from say a 1liter kit?
and does it take same amount of juice to do the 2nd coat or like paint needs less?
and does the 2nd coat do anything for ya other then just looks?
also any advantage in a coat and then size with a lube?
or do ya wipe off the coat with sizer (Lyman 45)
whats working in the real world, not in the sales stuff..
lemee know more about it
Patrick
Read : bayoubullets.net
Paint is thick,, THIS COAT IS LIKE WATER,, THIN AS KOOL-AIDE!
Read: all of these post on this thread.
24 thousand bullets is whats published for kit. And 1/2 that for 36$ kit, +fedex.
If it came off at sizer, it would be worthless, i had same train of thought at first.
Read all the post on this thread.
The first coat is very thin, think of it like a primer coat. The second coat covers the boolit well enough in most cases it can be used then. I do a third coat just because it makes the boolit look better, not as splochy.
A Lyman or RCBS sizer can be used but it is easier and much faster to use the Lee push thru sizers. I am told that a Star also works very well.
Donnie at Bayou bullets says around 26,000 bullets can be coated with the 1 liter kit. I have lost count but believe I got at least that much, probably more.
There is more info in the 'coating bullets with polymer paint" thread also, which is very long.
Hello Gents,
I came across this thread while looking for an alternative to lubing for a specific boolit & gun.
I am interested in seeing if any of you are having success with the Hi-Tek coating and Lee TL309-230-5R in a .300 BlackOut rifle/SBR???...I am especially interested to see if any of you are having success with all of the previous and using a sealed 7.62 suppressor.
I am quite alright with continuing to lube my pistol rounds as I am currently doing.
If this process allows me to shoot the Lee TL309 at subsonic speeds through my YHM can (with accuracy), then I am most interested.
Secondary to this, if the Hi-Tek also allows above average velocity and accuracy in my .223 boolits...that would definitely seal the deal.
If any of you have experience with the Hi-Tek, subsonic boolits through a can in .300 BlackOut, please share.
I would request that you hold off on a fevered sales pitch..."re-read the thread" type comments.
I am looking for specific facts, not rhetoric.
Keep The High Ground,
G
The first coat is thin and actually bonds to the lead. the second coat is the same consistency and adds to the thickness and also improves the colour.
Lubing the groove on coated bullets does nothing. Only wastes your time.
JCM...G
No sales pitch here, Mate. Just facts.
Here in Australia, Coated lead has been used in HK MP5SD by our police for years. We can't own suppressors, so no first hand experience. But, as stated elsewhere, coated lead bullets have been used for over 20 years here in OZ. There would be tens of thousands sent down range every weekend here.
It the thread, donnies friend shoots 223 at 2700 fps WITH a gas check.
You ever heard of jerry miculek, thats donnies brother. You need to call him or email him " just call me G. Nice guy and prompt.
howdy gents,
am about 99% sold on this, thanks mate!
:-)
have sent an e-mail to Donnie and am awaiting his response...in the thread 'gunoil' you wrote that he is shooting these from his AR, have not seen Donnie comment on this thread.
;-)
still have not seen any specific info on chronyed loads and/or targets of said loads.
need to do my end of due diligence...suppressors, not cheap and waiting for NFA to approve paperwork is not fun.
looking for more data...just crossing the 't' (s) and dotting the 'i' (s)
yes, I have heard of Jerry Miculek and met him on several occasions, nice guy.
I worked in the firearms industry for 20 years...may have a low post count, but not a noob.
:-)
appreciate you guys for posting all of this info.
G
This is my first post here. I saw that my video had been linked to this site. I'm glad some others have taken interest in the vids (someone needs to step up and do a nicer version:) )
I had shot a lot of the bayou bullets from Donnie prior to him retailing it and went to his shop a few times hoping he'd slip up and reveal his secret coating. Finally he released it to the public.
I had pestered hi-tek with emails about the product before I jumped into it. The biggest hurdle for me was the recommended purchase of a full size oven but I figured there had to be another way a DIYr could do it. Setting up a 220v or gas oven was going to be too much effort. The mini convection seemed to do the trick as most have discovered.
One thing more that I would add that isn't in the videos.. For those of you that are sizing your rounds, if you notice any issues with the bullet sticking or having trouble going through the die. Spray just a tiny dab (one quick spritz in a bucket of 200-300) of pledge furniture polish on them and tumble them and they'll slide right through.
I look forward to seeing more tips on how to make the process easier and more efficient...
G'day Mtbkn.
Mate, Your vid touches all the bases that is needed.
I have been using Hornady oneshot case lube for sizing. But since going to the Extreme Catalyst (which is slipperyier) no sizing lube is needed.
Last night I mixed a batch of 5,1,5 with extreme catalyst, just to see how it goes with a thicker coating mix. I have a Lyman 452374 that casts small (.450) and want to see how the thicker coating will go. The extreme catalyst works great with a 5.1.7 mix.
I am going to get a .358 125gr FP mold and size to .357 (my barrel size) and try these in the 357Sig at full power loads. This will have 5,1,5 mix coating with the extreme catalyst too. The 125gr FP should be good in the sig as it has a crimp groove and will prevent bullet setback.
I'm interested in accuracy too, as well as can use. I emailed Donnie and here's what I asked and his response:
Quote:
how will this product hold up on full power 5.56 rounds? Does it eliminate the need for gaschecks or just replace the lube?
I'm going to give it a shot after some instruction from a local member. I'm looking to coat my Lee 230s for the 300blk too...Quote:
To be perfectly honest I have not done enough testing to say positively one way or the other and I certainly do not want to give a false representation of this product.
I do have one customer that has fired to 2700 fps with GC and good accuracy.
I think the potential is there for good results but as you are aware there are so many variables when using cast bullets in centerfire rifles.
I am expecting more results from customers who have purchased the coating with the intent to use on .233 bullets.
I wish I had access to different 22 cal molds and the time to to do more testing.
Hope this info helps.
bigfelipe...thank you for the addition of this key information.
I will await Donnie's response to my e-mail and see what he says.
I just think that there has to be somebody out there that is using Hi-Tek for .300 BlackOut purposes.
I did see over in the powder coat thread that there are a few individuals using their boolits for this exact reason.
beyond that it really would be great to get 2700fps out of the AR with the Mihec NATO boolits that I am casting.
please keep us posted on your progress on this project.
Many Thanks,
G
We have a liter of Hi-Tek specifically for making high volume amounts of subsonic & supersonic 300 BLK boolits..
..but still in the process of getting our new casting/reloading center set up.
Been following all the threads..
(including other coated methods we also have the supplies & equipment for)
..Thanks to everyone who has generously shared their time, experience, trials, tribulations & successes! :D
Hopefully one day soon we can share what worked best for us.
thanks LongGun1!
would love to see follow up on this as well.
subsonic?...am I to infer that you will be running these through a can?
;-)
G
We either have or on order...multiple integral suppressed (couple of H300IC & several Leonidas), several AAC Handirifles with Silencerco Osprey, and other AR with AAC 762SD & screw-on/QD.
Details on the casting/reloading center
http://pullig.dyndns.org/practicalpr...&t=3397&hilit=
On the guns & cans...
http://pullig.dyndns.org/practicalpr...&t=3370&hilit=
Ok , custom mold nice for 380, did some last nite. Took my friend a while to find time to cut it. POST #85 & #100
http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/...psa657cab1.jpg
http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/...psc1f568e3.jpg
LMAO, where we headed, making molds with no lube grooves, Yay!
I sized em, they are ready to load.
Gunslick.
Most of the commercial casters here in OZ get the lube grooves machined out of their molds.
A 9mm 165gr RN BB comes out at 168Gr with no grooves.
I have a .452 230gr TC that I machined the bevel base off of. I am going to set it up in the mill and try to remove the lube groove myself. If I stuff it up, then I'll learn from it.
I have a correction: I mis-understood donnie! He said his friend shot 223 at 2700 fps with a gas check. I dont shoot rifle, just helpin out. My budget is 380,9,40,45.
Popper, it is my understanding that the only purpose of the groove is to supply an area for the lube. Buy using a dry lube you would not need the groove on the boolits. I don't think it's a good idea to modify a perfectly good mold or purchase a new mold if you current mold is working for you. Just my .02 worth.
What he ⬆ said: This is a mold (my friend cut) for my plinking of my two 380's. If ya get to where ya dont like it at all, put it back on the CNC and cut your next larger favorite boolit, your not out anything. I want to ask him to do a blank steel Lyman.