Also while your are in that section take a look at the alloy calculator, download it too. best little device there is for figuring out what is needed.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...oy-calculators
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Also while your are in that section take a look at the alloy calculator, download it too. best little device there is for figuring out what is needed.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...oy-calculators
Check that cases are all the same length, if not trim to make consistent.
Cases of differing lengths will not have a consistent flare.
If they are Virgin cases, did you chamfer & debur first?
You can get good results with nickle platted brass. But you will pay more for it and it will not last as long as unplated. It is harder on size dies.
Use what you got but if you buy more brass go for the unplated for the best value.
Dave C.
Also when you flaring your case take a boolit that you have and see if you have the base fit ok is one way to see if you have enough flaring on the case.Also trimming these case will also do a job on your trimmer if you do not have a carbide cutter on your trimmer.It is best to use carbide dies to do these cases also other wise you will do a job on your dies for deprime and size.I found out the hard way some time ago and end up getting some carbide dies and problem taken care of.it dose not matter what cartiage it is for nickle will be the same on all.
I cast my own, lube size & use gas checks where required. I looked at trying pc but does it really offer a labor and time saving compared to lubing?
+1 that!
Dave C is spot on correct here. I have noticed more nickel plated brass in the stores in recent times but I keep away from it as Dave C & trapper9260 are suggesting. It is harder on fl sizers and primer seating can also be more of a challenge, especially in a progressive press.
First if I were out to cut labor or time I would not cast and probably would not reload. The big advantage of PCing for me is the ability to push my magnum pistol bullets to the speeds I was pushing jacketed to with out the leading problem. No waxy mess. I did not have to buy a second barrel for my Glocks. Lastly, my wife loves having pink 9mm ammo.
I like the nickle for my leather belts with the loops they don't turn that nasty green color like brass will sometimes. Great advice above.
Being new and not very computer techy I could use some help navigating this site. Any help will be most appreciated.
deadwood pete
You need to be a bit more specific!
click on the cast boolits sign on the left top of the page , and scroll down to what you want to read about
.
I click on "unread posts" on the upper right corner by my name and browse the posts that interest me. The custom google search bar is quite handy too if looking for specifics.
Have a 10 year old give you a hand. Grandkids are good for more than just spoiling and handing back.
Finally finished a boolit trap, so i could get some more feedback on my current unique powder loads. I've been shooting 230gr rn (cast from wheel weights) in front of 7.8gr of unique powder lite by cci large pistol primers.
I don't own a chronograph yet, but i did get some interesting visual data
These were shot at 25yds through 1/2 inch plywood into a 1/4 plate of steel and collected at the bottom of trap. Bases were cupped, but other than that
What type of feedback are you looking for?
If terminal boolit-sticks try newspaper soaked overnight stacked on edge, 20" of soaked newspaper should do for round nose pistol, may need more for flatpoint.
Member Depoloni can give Way better info on this than I can as he has done tons of tests with it.
There is no perfect medium for boolit testing but the wet news is certainly in My price range and can be easily found localy.
I use rubber mulch in a 5 gal bucket with a plastic lid laid on its' side if I want to recover boolits, Most are Relatively undamaged and can easily be evaluated for rifling engraving etc. then recycled. :)
Was just wondering if cupping was common. Just started casting 45lc
Barrel leading didnt seam to be a prblm
Guess ill recover some undamaged boolits tomorrow. Thanks for tips
I had a similar question when I started out as well. Here is the post if you want to read some of the replies I got,
Concave Bases on Recovered Boolits...
The alloy I used is pretty similar to straight WW as well.
Cupping is normal, witness it even in brass jacketed bullets. Gas checks or jackets reduce the effect as does very hard alloy.