Bought one from Hatch. Very happy with it.
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Bought one from Hatch. Very happy with it.
I need help troubleshooting my PID that I just assembled. I am using a Mypin PID and Inkbird SSR. I believe it is wired correctly per the included diagram and those on this forum. The PID comes on and reads ambient temp correctly. Temp rises when I hold in my hand so TC is working properly and when it hits preset temp the "output" light comes on. I believe that all is well there. The problem is that I cannot get the SSR to respond. There is not any power transferred to the "output" side of the SSR. How many volts should be present on the PID signal wires when the PID output light comes on?
Just measured my TA-6 output with T/C below setpoint: DC output of controller was 9.6V
Suggest checking polarity of the SSR input signal. Polarity does matter. Should also verify your SSR is DC input. AC input SSRs also exist. If you are getting a reasonable output drive from your Mypin controller, then you have either an SSR failure or SSR connection failure. Is your SSR fused separately from the controller?
I cannot get any output from the PID either AC or DC. This is on the 3 and 4 pin. It does show continuity when active and open when off between those pins.
As far as SSR I don't know if its AC or DC input, but it states 3-32 VDC on the input side so I assume its DC only. Can I test the SSR with a battery or other power supply?
Here is what I have. It doesn't state TA4 on the display however.
Just TA.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I looked at your link and the description states "Universal Digital PID Temperature Controller RNR Control Out'
Note the RNR, which describes the types of outputs it has. "R" standing for Relay.
An "S" would denote a solid state output (suitable to energize a SSR).
Also if you look at the picture of the device on the left, the nameplate states Output:Relay
A relay output is a "dry" normally open contact.
It sounds like that is what you have.
One way to use the PID would be to replace the SSR (Solid State Relay) with a mechanical relay.
You could use a 120 volt relay with a contact rating suitable for your casting pot,...or whatever.
Wire the hot 120 volt lead through the PID relay output contact to the coil of a 120 volt relay, with the power neutral on the other side of the relay coil.
A 10 amp relay contact should be fine.
If the relay has two contacts, I would wire the contacts in parallel.
Hope that helps.
So it seems my PID doesn't generate the DC power that is required for my SSR. So do I need an AC input SSR and jump power to one side of the controlled relay on the PID, say pin 3. Then go from pin 4 to the AC SSR. Then the other side of input on the SSR would go to ground?
I was responding before I saw you second post. Will this work?
https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-ASH-40...4&s=hi&sr=1-29
Wire the input of the PID's relay to a + voltage suitable to activate your SSR, and the output of the PID's relay to the SSR's + side control input, then the - side of the SSR's control input to ground. Then when the relay activates it will turn the SSR on.
I have it rewired now as stated above. The hot wire runs through the PID controlled relay and to the + side of SSR. I will attach neutral to the - side. I should have the AC SSR in next week. Thanks to all for the help. I have read quite a bit but hadn't picked up on the differences in PID's. I just though that I had a faulty PID.
What is the advantage of the DC SSR (with the correct PID that is)? Does the AC SSR run hotter?
Relays tend to fail after a large number of cycles, as an Electronics designer I hate the things. SSRs you can cycle an infinite number of times, so long as you don't hit them with a lightning spike and/or too much current they just work. Far more reliable, though lightning will kill them eventually.
AC vs DC is a choice thing, I like DC as I tend to use micro controllers, which put out DC. Either one, if it will do the job, is great; They both run very cool, typically, though for huge loads if the spec sheet says to use a heat sink, do :) I usually run lower power stuff, stepper motors can be fun!
Bodine,
I am a new member who is doing a PID project that I will use to control my Lee 20 lb bottom pour pot and to control y Lee 10 lb bottom pour. I am putting 2 Rex C100 controllers in my box along with 2 volt/amp displays. The issue I am having is with wiring my volt/amp display. The volt/amp display has a red and black wire coming from it and it also came with a round I beliee transformer that has 2 green wires coming from it. Each Rex C100 and it's volt/amp display will have an independent power source. Here are a few pictures of my project. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance. Attachment 287522
Probably an inductor to smooth out pulse/AC for the meter. Often a CT (control transformer) is used for HIGH voltage/current (like industrial power systems)Quote:
The volt/amp display has a red and black wire coming from it and it also came with a round I beliee transformer that has 2 green wires coming from it.
Actually absolutely no need for this (V/A display). The output to the pot will be 115 (line volts) turned on and off. Current will be determined by the resistance of the heating element.
I realize the volt/amp display is not needed to run my lead pots with the PIDs but I have already put them in the box cutouts and would like to use them just as well being they are already there. I am to the point where my SSRs are mounted and I am ready to wire my PIDs and the volt/amp displays. Do you know how I should wire in the volt/amp displays. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
This is what I used when I built mine, don't know if it will help your case as I'm electrically challenged.
Attachment 287540
Slim
Thank you for the assistance. I got the bulk of the wiring done on my PIDs minus the amperage display. The right PID keeps flashing 000 as the process value so I have to figure out what's going on there. Here is a picture of what it looks like so far. Photo always turns seems no matter what I do.
IMO you're far better off to get a turkey fryer burner and a large cast iron kettle or pot. I hand sort the wheel weights into 3 different buckets (Steel & zinc, clip on lead WW, stick on lead WW) being the clip ons are harder and the stick on softer. I flux with either canning wax or Frankford Armory flux but lately I've been using the F.A. flux more as it seems like it works better. One thing I have also found to greatly speed up sorting is to use a rare earth magnetic stud finder. I pick up as many weights as the magnet will hold and sort them reach the magnet down for another load and so on. Much easier on the back. As far as relying on the dial of your Lee melter for temperature control i would strongly suggest putting in some type of ventilation system. I got an inline fan and ducting to build mine for under $50. The Lee pot will be too cold to start with and too hot when you finish IMO. The hard crust that some people have develop on top of the lead is actually lead oxides which begin to form at 900 degrees and lead fumes also. I am going to a PID controller plus my existing ventillation system. Just my 2 cents.
If the 'coil has 3 wires, it is a hall transformer, if 2 it's just a 'core' transformer - you wind your wire through it to get a higher reading on the amp scale. Nice setup you have there.
FYI for others, you just need the PID controller (SSR output), K thermocouple (get several, they break) and a good 55 Amp SSR AND reasonably large heat sink. SSR failure is usually getting too hot.
Flashing zeros, likely a bad TC or associated bad wiring connection.