Originally Posted by
runfiverun
i'm sure bruce can get the Li-12. I remember something about a couple hundred bucks for a 50-lb sack? That wouldn't be bad at all, but I'd still prefer a pre-made grease (whatever kind of oil/gellant, most anything we can dream up is available unless we want it extra-hard).
just for clarification i was using my atf modified moly complex lube with the polymer coated jaxketed rounds in the 223.
that was a ton of information just today passed back and forth.
as far as "good" ingredients i have an open mind still as something like carnuba might make a good carrier if it is mixed with something like an ester/naptha/poe type oil. [might even be especially outstanding in the heat]
fighting anything that has a visc changing fat in it however might just be a losing battle. [imo] My thoughts exactly, when the right "solvents" like ester oils or similar that can actually modify the carnauba, it might show some promise. It seems to work in Speed Green and Lotak in the cold. What DOESN'T work is simply melting the carnauba in with other things that all boil off and leave the carnauba behind just like solvents in paint. Whatever we make, it needs to not leave a single component behind unless it's ZDDP or something that doesn't accumulate or change surface friction with weather.
back to the hto it has a long chain molecular structure,and could be used to tie in some polymers.
the question is tie them into what?
a co-polymer of some sort?
as a binding agent to a straight clear pag?
or some other type of oil. I don't see it as a binder necessarily, but as it's intended use, which is an EP additive for drawing/cutting oils, something that would replace the anti-seize, wetting, boundary lube, and pro-EP properties of Alox without the side effects that Alox has in boolit lube.
if we use a polymer i seriously doubt we could get it to have a "wet" stage or even want it to have one. I have my doubts too.
and it still leaves the problem of an all temp "oil".