Field goal kickers practice kicks on the sideline using a frame that supports netting. Has anyone thought of putting a smaller mesh net in a light weight, collapsible, portable frame? That should collect brass from an auto loader.
Regards,
Tony
Printable View
Field goal kickers practice kicks on the sideline using a frame that supports netting. Has anyone thought of putting a smaller mesh net in a light weight, collapsible, portable frame? That should collect brass from an auto loader.
Regards,
Tony
It's already being done by a fellow here in NC. Knock down frame of PVC pipe and a net that collects in a fold at the bottom. I saw them at a Hickory NC gun show about 3 months ago.
Frame, net and all folded into a 8"X4' bag, and weighed about 8 lbs. Very neat idea. :p
Rare brass and high grass would still be easy as eating pie. :p
I've got one that mounts on a tripod. I've used it several times when I was in very grassy or muddy areas. It's too much trouble and not 100% reliable to use all of the time. It's about 18"X18".
EW
That's a handsome bench in JesterGrin's photo. But I don't like bottom shelves on benches, you just hack your shins on them. A bench like that, using a solid core door as a top, is a piece of cake to make, and cheap. I've never bought a bench, too expensive and never saw one near the quality I could make. A few tips : Make a pair of legs from a piece of chipboard ( you'd probably call it particle board ) with two pieces of 1.50 x 4 inch timber. The chipboard acts as a very effective brace. Make two of these. After attaching to the worktop, attach another sheet of chipboard to the back. That acts as a cross brace. Finally, fix each leg to the floor with coach bolts. The whole thing is quite light but very rigid being effectively an open fronted box. It would be a very easy item to make as a kit, in whatever size the customer wants, but is there enough demand to make it worth anyone's while ?
I WISH.....
RCBS made swag dies for their RC press.
Thank You. But I keep stuff in the drawers that I do not use all that much. So they are never in the way. Most everything I need is in the roll around shelves on the ends and the little ones on top of the bench. I guess I need a new Photo as there is more stuff on it now lol. I can feel the SUCK lol.
would something like this work for you?
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...t=20002&page=3
............Jim, I don't have a drawing with dimensions but here's a photo of a die I made:
http://www.fototime.com/0BC9ECC796F51F9/standard.jpg
The problem with making an adaptor to use Lyman/RCBS dies in the Star is how close they are in OD to the Star. In the photo the die is upside down. You're looking at the bottom. The flange is the largest in size at .875" OD, and is what rests against the press casting.
The really important parts are those 2 shoulders which are seperated by that reduced area. The shoulders are .750" OD and are a critical dimension as they form the seal in the press housing. Now, keeping that .750" dimension in mind, the Lyman dies are .720" OD at the top where the 'O' ring is, and then reduce to .700" to the taper seal at the bottom.
All else aside, and disregarding the Star dies' reduced area (where they have the lube passage holes) you have the two .750" shoulders which to stick a Lyman die into would only be a MAX of .025" thick. That's about the thickness of 6 sheets of 20# typing paper. There's a couple other problems too, but that adapter wall thickness (or thinness) is rather problematic in itself.
...............Buckshot
this is not quite what you asked for, but it may be a start. It's only good for 1 size, in this case .311 diameter, but it should be fairly quick & easy to use & it should give fairly good results. Don't get me wrong. I still believe that gas check shank removal should be done on a Bridgeport, but for those guys that don't have a machine shop handy, this might be an option that beats trying to center up a pair of blocks under a drill press.
Here's how it works -
Step 1
C-clamp the blocks together, mount the jig around the blocks & center it up on the mold cavity by using the cone shaped piece.
Step 2
Tighten the knobs on the thread rods. Remove the cone shaped piece. Replace it with the tool steel drill bushing, & tighten the bushing in place with the set screw.
Step 3,
Insert the .311" diameter drill bit in the drill bushing with the depth stop collar set to the proper position & have at it. Use plenty of oil & don't be too aggressive.
If you would like to try it, let me know & I'll send it out to you.
Take a look for a brand called 2x4 Basics, they make a work bench kit which you cut your supports to your desired length and add a table top. I've had mine for about 8 years now and its been modified a few times when I had to move. Handy kit, I recommend them to anyone who wants a sturdy workbench.
How about an adaptor to use RCBS/Lyman top punch in Star lubesizer?
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct...tnumber=942827
Problem is most of my semi-autos throw the brass straight up in the air.
A go,no-go gage plate for checking slugs, so that five groove barrels can be accurately measured. It should have all the usual milsurp calibers bracketed and for the Smiths too.
I used to have V-Block that was used with a mic to measure the odd grooved slugs. Explaination in one of Brownell's Kinky Gunsmith books I think.
here's what I found on internet.
http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb...rooves-126449/
Quote:
The V-anvil micrometer is the best way but it is an expensive and specialized tool that most people won't want to pay for, especially to measure only a few slugs. A way to simulate one is to make a small V-block of the appropriate included angle (108° for five grooves), calibrate it with an accurate diameter pin, and then measure the bullet and V-block with an ordinary micrometer. Then do the math given below.
The math goes like this:
Let a = the included angle of the V-block,
t = the thickness of the V-block from the bottom of the V to the bottom,
h = the measured height of the bullet and V-block,
and d = the diameter of the bullet.
Then d = 2(h - t)/(1 + 1/sin (a/2) )
An example:
For a 5 groove bullet, the included angle (a) is 108°, assume the V-block "thickness" (t) is .250" and the measured total height (h) is .5854", then
d = 2(.5854 - .250)/ (1 + 1/sin (108/2))
d = 2(.5854 - .250)/ (1 + 1/sin 54)
d = 2(.5854 - .250)/ (1 + 1/.80901)
d = 2(.5854 - .250)/ (1 + 1.23607)
d = 2(.5854 - .250)/ (2.23607)
d = 2(.3354)/(2.23607)
d = .6708/2.23607
d = .300
The easiest way to determine the V-block thickness (t) is to measure a known cylinder and then calculate it from
t = h - (d/2) (1+1/sin(a/2) )
With typical groove depths, you should be able to measure both land and groove diameters if the slug isn't too long.
Note: this process will work with a 90° V-block (using 90° for the included angle) and a 5 groove slug for groove diameter if you are careful to position the slug with the large diameters on the slopes of the V. You won't be able to measure the small diameter though.
Not "V" Blocks for measuring 5 land and groove rifling, but for a quickie portable loading bench I take to the range that folds up in the back of my station wagon I use a 24" tall wooden step stool with the metal strap scissor braces on each side. I have my Lee Challenger press and powder measure bolted down on each side with 1/4" through bolts with nuts (NO LAG SCREWS that pull out!!!) and there is enough room between the two tools to set my powder balance to calibrate the powder measure or some cigar boxes to hold brass and boolits. The two steps can be used for holding more stuff, too.
rl908
How about a LEE style boolit sizer but longer and ported. Then add a heating element with a grease gun style pressurized lube cylinder. I'm very tempted to try and do this myself.