Nearly identical to my way and measurement .....
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Another Klass Kote shoot this morning with over three hundred rounds expended around three guns: Ruger GP100, S&W M10-6 HB, and S&W M&P9c.
Bullseye was the powder used this time in all the loads. The revolvers were fed 158gr boolits from a Lee mold and the auto was fed 124gr boolits from another Lee mold. Two baked coats of KK with HBN in the second coating. I didn't bother this time with pics across the board but the M10 had the worst build up.
http://i1176.photobucket.com/albums/...ps17007968.jpg
But with minimal cleaning with some Hoppes #9 soaked and then swabbed they all came out looking like the M&P barrel.
http://i1176.photobucket.com/albums/...ps1239b676.jpg
I'm still not ready to give up on the powder coat because it's so much easier to apply but I have to admit the Klass Kote is working even if it's more of a pain to apply, clean up, and the HBN isn't so cheap.
Have you tried without the HBN? Most (or at least some) of us are guessing its not necessary (based on PC and HI-TEK not needing an additional lube).
I will say that I have not used HBN with my KK coated boolits and I have not had any problems in my 9mm. I just coated some of mine today using the 2:1 mixture with about 1 part lacquer thinner added and I think it may work better than 1:1 mix. Will know more later this week. When I get to the range.
From threads, lacquer thinner seems to work better than acetone with powder coating tumble Piglet method and it seems cutting the Klass Kote for 2-3 coats seems to work well as well.
To thin it out just a bit. it is just a reducer. Thin coats are better than thick coats.
So far, powder coat is the only coating he has not been able to scratch off with his finger nail. But he will try a 2:1 epoxy and thin that mix 1:1 this evening.
He also did more PBTP with a third coat last night that will be loaded up tonight with some WSF I think this time. Maybe Power Pistol. Maybe not.
I'm casting up some fresh right now to try this tonight. I just ran a batch of the cheap HF red through the oven with a lot less powder this time and they look soooooo much better with no warty bubbly cancer look to them. The biggest lure so far to powder coating is it's so much easier and seems to work just as well. And wow does this epoxy stuff stink. I'm doing this outside in front of a fan to blow the stink away and I still feel like I should be wearing scuba gear. As this is a vs. thread I will include the same pic I posted in the powder coat thread as well:
http://i1176.photobucket.com/albums/...ps6b3f4c8c.jpg
I think they look much better this time and will be running another coat and another baking tonight still.
I do NOT like the clear PBTP powder coat:
http://i1176.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9575d264.jpg
Ignoring the fact that I didn't use a new clean bucket so it picked up some of the residue of the red powder coat I've been using...
As soon as the thinner was added the white powder went clear. I couldn't see the paint at all. I added the boolits and shook them for a while and have no idea of the coverage on them. I guess I will do a second and maybe third coat just to be sure but I don't like this at all as it's impossible to tell if you have it on enough or if it's even. No likey. I may mix it in with the red and see what that does. Not sure.
I loaded up the HF powder coated for testing this weekend:
4.7gr Win WSF
http://i1176.photobucket.com/albums/...ps316ad7dc.jpg
And I finally tried the KK in a 2:1 with a 1:1 with thinner and no HBN for some low velocity Trail Boss .30-30 load tests later but I need to free up some brass first.
http://i1176.photobucket.com/albums/...psd49eb432.jpg
They coated very evenly but I always leave a mess in the bucket which makes the bucket non usable for the next batch. I've tried wiping it clean with some thinner on rags and that gets some of it but not enough. I either need to find a source of cheap paper buckets for one time use only or I'm going to stop making these. They may work but they are a mess to make. The PBTP is the cleanest and very easy to apply in several thin layers. The HF seems to be much more temperature unfriendly of the two powders and will clump as the thinner evaporates making a mess. However, if you can get the right amount of powder to bullets and not one drop too much thinner then one coat of HF powder looks like it coats pretty even and once baked feels plenty strong with nothing breaking down during sizing. If nothing else all this testing has been a fun diversion and I really think it may even find its way into my process for bulk plinking ammo. At best I'm still going to keep trying to tweak both the PBTP and HF to see if I can start counting how many boolits to add exactly how much of each powder to add and how much thinner to use. The low cost of the HF is really a lure to keep trying to get that one right but the PBTP isn't that much more so I will continue to try it as well. I may finally say the HF is too much of a bother compared to how easy the PBTP is as that is the current feeling but man is that HF powder cheap...
Left over kk well peel off from the bucket. For the love of god try 2:1 kk with hbn minus thinner next batch. I'll be making 454 casull's soon with that exact mixture. Guarantee it works.
I didn't see the "minus the thinner" part. I guess I can try that on the other half of that batch. I'm not doubting it works at all as the KK coating was the first one to really work at all. It's just the mess left behind. The paint in my bucket won't peel off at all.
Your right, mine peeled of from the mixing cup not the bucket.
How important do you all feel the HBN is to the KK coating? Im confused on what its suppose to do if its mixed in the the epoxy.
The video shows use of 5 micron HBN for reduction of friction. His bullets size right down with little effort.