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I have tried the bonded core on the brass jackets and the trick is to have the inside clean so that the lead will stick. Frankly it was way to much effort for what I would consider as a pointless result. Core retention might be important for hunting bullets where you are looking for expansion and penetration. On the 22 cal stuff I have been interested in fragmentation and some reasonable accuracy. Interesting experiment but then I went back to mass production.
Bonding cores might be useful with larger caliber hunting bullets, but I think it's a waste of time and energy with a 55 grain .22 caliber hollowpoint. Like Thor said, these are varmint bullets.
Thor:
Since I only have two rifles and both are .223's. Decided to spread the 39.5gr around a little further. Mailed 20 each to three friends that promised to load test them.
One has a 9" twist. Told him to fire the first five at 25yds to confirm whether they spun
apart or not. No use wasting them if they don't reach 100yd paper, right?
Don't know what my NEF twist is, but, the Sako is 14".
As long as the core is long enough to reach the start of the curve they won't move.
They're locked in place.
Now these 30gr core's might be a little short, but, even they look like they reach far
enough. and you've compressed them tight enough I don't think they're loose.
I need to get the dies made so I can make 'em myself. One more project then I'll be
freed up. Go in Wed for a nerve block to my back. Once I get over that and the weather
lets up. Need to finish putting a new roof on the old camp trl so it can be used.
After that, it's lathe time, I hope.
Thanks again Thor. Let me know what and when ok?
Several have asked about the jacket forming die (the one painted yellow) that my dad made and so here is some info on it. It is a two piece deal (three if you count the lock ring) The die itself is smaller and is threaded into the 7/8 threaded piece from the bottom. You can see the parting line between the two pieces in the picture.
The die is belled at the opening and then tapered to the finish part of the die[ That portion is at the top of the die, about 1/4 of an inch in length and polished. That smaller die part is hard steel. The 7/8 thread is not hard. the die is a push through type and for years was set up on a RCBS A2. I found that it worked well for me on the hollywood. I run one case after another and the first is pushed free of the die by the next jacket. I have a bin with a lid that catches the jackets as they "pop" free from the top of the die
Found the article and its made a liar out of me...I'm sorry but I was mistaken in the price as I was recalling it from memory.
Core swage $80
Core seat $80
Point form $150
This is located in a May 2007 issue of Precision Shooting. His name is Larry Blockmon PM me for his phone number if interested. I just don't like posting other ppls #'s on the forums
his dies are steel and he claims to have them last up towards 50,000 rounds...should be enough to sell what you make and buy some Corbin dies. Athough CH dies might be cheaper? But I'm not sure on their specifications
thanks for the walkthru. i have just started making the various dies myself now.
You have my attention now...post pics if you could. pretty please :drinks:Quote:
Originally Posted by hornsurgeon
i've only made a jacket making die set. next will be the core seater, then the nose former.
What did you use? I'm thinking about doing the lee with the push through turned down on the lathe.Quote:
Originally Posted by hornsurgeon
MightyThor, thanks for the updates and to all the rest of you who have made this a lot clearer. I'm about to organise myself (big task:mrgreen:) and start on making some dies.
I am curoius about the yellow dies used in this thread.
First does this set-up cut the rim off or just push it out? How does the die mount in a press? like it is sitting in the pic? if so does the bullet ride up through it or down from the top (as pictured). Do yopu think the 224 sizer would work? making the rod undersized...
*If possible can you take anouther pic of the yellow set...simply placing it on the table top and line it up like it would go through...I am trying to figure out how I get a freind of mine make me a set.
:confused:I am thinking about getting a blank die and step drilling it down and then making a lapping rod and trying my hand at a cheap bullet die set... ANY advise ehre would also be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance
You can contact Lee direct and request bullet sizing dies in most sizes.
THen you'd only need to make the pins.
Thor: got waylaid again on the bullet tests. Weather, 4" snow again today.
plus, Dad's car was stolen last night. So----------------!!
The die and punch push the rim out by stretching the case. The die mounts in the press by threading in the top where the normal die goes. the punch slides into a RCBS universal shellholder and it pushes the case all the way through the die.Quote:
Originally Posted by btrapr1
Can't take any pictures for a while cause my shop got taken over by my son's boy scout troop. We are building 8 sea kayaks and my reloading shop will be a boat shop until May or June. These things are so cool, they are 17 feet long, made of plywood, epoxy and fiberglass and handtools. The kids are doing a great job and a weeklong trip to Canada is planned for the end of the project where we will live out of the boats while we paddle through 5 interconnected lakes. In the mean time I picked up a 222 and an 06 so I have a reason to look forward to reloading.http://byfiles.storage.live.com/y1pf...aaWJy-Qv0fDcWQ
MightyThor,
The boats do look cool! Where did you get the plans for them?
John
Chesapeak Light Craft, (CLC) this is their Chesapeak 17 foot Kayak.
I can save you some trouble with this. The de-rimming die needs to be a little smaller than the .224 final diameter, otherwise the jacket will spring back and be to big to go in the core seating die.Quote:
Originally Posted by btrapr1
I measured my set last night and the hole thru the die part is .217 and the pushrod that pushes it thru is .195. After shoving the .22 case thru the die the rim is ironed out and the case streches out to about .703 in length.
The new jacket springs out and measures about .219 that will go in the core seating die and when the core is seated it expands the whole thing to .224.
This is from the now out of business Sport-Flite set that I bought quite a few years ago.
Rat-Man
Ratman, does your jacket end up smooth or is there still a little crease where the rim was? My die is .220 and punch is about the same as yours. I end up with a little ring around the base of the bullet which so far has been no issue for me, but several have asked why it is not smooth. I don't expect to shoot bench rest with my bullets so I have not really experimented with working the rim all the way out. Just seeking info for future.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rat-Man
Thor,
As long as the punch is in good shape, I have worn out the tip of one, you can see where the rim was but there is no ridge there. I do however usually see exactly where the firing pin smashed the brass and compressed it a small amount.
I will try to attach a picture tonight of one of the jackets with a fresh punch that has not been worn down.
Rat-Man
As promised here are the pictures showing the results of the measurements that I gave earlier today.
This first picture is when everything is the correct size.
http://webpages.charter.net/wescolem...ts/boolits.jpg
Next is the worn stem along with the new one I built from 1/4 dill rod. I think that you will be able to see the worn area near the tip on the bottom punch.
http://webpages.charter.net/wescolem...lits/stems.jpg
This is what the bullets look like when the punch is worn and the rim is not completely removed.
Like someone else has already said the ring is really just a looks issue, the bullets seem to shoot the same regardless of what they look like within reason of course.
http://webpages.charter.net/wescolem...s/stemworn.jpg
Ratman you mentioned that after core seating the size was .224
does 224 go into the point up die and come out .224?
I just finished a .243 and a .308 set, course they use commerical jackets.
thanks for the answer
Larry