Has anyone tested both the rubber mulch nuggets and shreds to see which one works best in a trap? Lowes seems to have a decent supply of both forms.
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Has anyone tested both the rubber mulch nuggets and shreds to see which one works best in a trap? Lowes seems to have a decent supply of both forms.
Here's a drawing of what I may try. To make it portable I may make some sort of trailer.
Attachment 78271
Any suggestions welcome.
Thanks for lookin'
You'll probably end up wearing out a hole in the carpet and not much more than lead dust since you have the steel plate at 90 degrees to the path of the bullet. You might want to consider using AR500 plate if you are determined to leave it at 90 degrees. I would also suggest some 60 (or maybe even 45) degree supports fore and aft so that it is a bit more sturdy, especially if you are going to transport it on a trailer.
Oh, and don't shoot out your tires... :)
I'm glad I found this thread and joined the forum. I wanted to start shooting my replica 1853 Enfield 58 caliber. A few years back I had the front sight dovetailed to correct a minor windage problem. So, I was planning on a 5 gallon bucket and rubber mulch to collect my minie ball to recycle, EXCEPT one modification: Kevlar.
I've shot lots of old vests (soft body armor) with all kinds of firearms: patched ball and minie are stopped on the surface.
My plan is about 8" of mulch in the bottom, then the old front and back kevlar panels, more rubber mulch to the lid semi compressed, a 3/4" heavy rubber sheet to seal up the bullet holes placed under the lid. At the range probably strap it on top of a sawhorse. Pics to follow next week, I have all the components but no time...
We issue Type IIIA which offers some slash protection and defence from handgun projectiles: 22LR to 44 Mag. The soft lead will deform and stop right there. The mulch behind the armor will cushion the impact and help deplete the energy.
I have the Maine Moose Season and a cow permit to deal with first.
Here are a couple of articles from the Box O' Truth regarding Level II and Level III vests:
The Box O' Truth #15 - Fragmentation Armor
http://www.theboxotruth.com/docs/bot15.htm
The Box O' Truth #16 - Level IIIA Armor
http://www.theboxotruth.com/docs/bot16.htm
Mark [smilie=s:
I am going to try the 5 gallon/rubber mulch. At present I am using tree stumps, but will be running out eventually. Trying to get set up to cast. I have a Lee 10 lb, moulds for .358, and .430, plus approx 30 lbs of lead-range scrap. I wish to be able to perpetuate my fun!
luvtn
This Looks like the Target Boards we built and placed in the "Live Fire Shoot Houses" on some of the Projects I managed. In those, both the pistol and AR-15/M16 Rifle bullets used were all frangible. The back AR500 type steel plate was tilted slightly back in the frame (2-3 inches depth difference between top and bottom). This will not give the benefit that a 30* to 45* angle gives, but it can't hurt, and drains the metal splatter to a single line. The fronts of the target boxes were covered with a 3/4" rubberized membrane, similar to what reinforced Horse Stall Mats are made of. This made it somewhat self healing, and entrained most of the metal splatter. Standard paper Silhouette targets were adhered to the face. The Targets could be moved in rooms to simulate different entrance engagement scenario's.
Mustang
I found this thread and finally made it through reading all of the posts....fascinating reading.
Has anyone tried wet compressed sawdust in a 5 gal bucket for light to med .38 special loads? I would think it maybe like wet newsprint but easier to move around
I have made a stop that is 2x6 for sides and 4x4 sheet of chip board.in layers and 2x10 for the back.I know you need to change the chip board after so many uses and I fill it with sand.I has work for me i was thinking of the ground up rubber like some has stated but have not got around on that yet.just to give someone different ideas also .
My criteria is some thing small and very portable that I can stick in the back of my pick that isn't too heavy ( my back can't handle that anymore) and it wouldn't be for a lot of shooting.... Maybe to test some loads in my pistols so it need not be big or last a long time. That is why I'm thinking 5 gal bucket style I can't use anything like these on the range I shoot on but I was thinking I may be able to take one of the various old mining roads around me and find a safe place to do some testing. & yes of course I want to recover some of my alloy.
Here's one article where the author used damp sawdust and sand packed into Folger's plastic containers:
Folgers... And You Thought It was Just Coffee
Building a $2 Bullet Impact Analyzer
http://www.realguns.com/Commentary/comar153.htm
Mark [smilie=s:
mine isnt a fancy as most of the above, but i filled a recycle trash can (heavy duty plastic, a little bigger than a large trash can on wheels) with sand. staple targets on it, the holes almost reclose when the bullet passes through the side. I've shot thousands of rounds through the side of this thing with my .22lr, .223 AR, .40s&w, and .308. never had a round pass through the entire can. infact most of the recovered rounds are stopped with in the first foot of sand anything found past that was just a few of the .308 jackets. we just sift them out with a frame with 1/4" wire mesh. i read some where that you cant melt down .22lr bullet heads for reloading, have any of you heard of this? it melts just fine-made fishing jigs and 1/4 oz weights out of it with no problems...
22lr boolits turned into 190gr 10mm boolits just fine for me.
I have been watching this thread for a long time now. Saw and tried the rubber-crumb-in-the-5-gal-bucket idea. Works great with 38 Spl., but my 45 Colt hunting loads pass clear through when shot at 25 yards! Glad I set it in front of a big dirt berm. Oh, I was using a "Ruger Only" recipe.
Alot of good info on here.
With sand, dry is better for stopping power.
Type of sand wasn't reported but 2 feet was enough to stop a 50 bmg. Wet sand wasn't nearly as effective.
After seeing some great trap ideas on in this thread, I though I would give it a go. For my purposes, I figured that the "steel plate in the back of a box-o-rubber mulch" design would be a good one day project. There is a steel supplier near me that had pre-sheared 24 X 24 plates of 3/16th steel. I picked up 5 X .8 cu.ft. bags of rubber mulch, and a couple 2X12's on the way home, along with three rubber door mats.
Attachment 93417
I made one door mat into a upper pocket, that would help maintain the mulch density near the top, to counteract the affects of gravity.
Attachment 93418 Attachment 93419
When the top was filled, I laid it down and filled the main chamber, and then stapled two door mats over the box. Where they overlapped, I glued them together with some 3M 777 spray adhesive.
Attachment 93411 Attachment 93412
The dang thing must weigh close to a hundred pounds. I need to put it on skis, or wheels next spring.
Attachment 93413
I was able to try it out before it got dark. I shot some .30 cal Lee soup cans, and some NOE 311.202's into it. Nothing came out the back side.
Attachment 93414
The holes in the door mats didn't self seal like I was expecting. The boolits punched a hole instead of making a self-closing slit. They were only a couple bucks apiece though. I'll try to find a better material when they get shot up. I didn't take it apart to see what happened to the boolits yet. When I do I will post the results.
Jeff