Very nice. Now you and GWS need to have a race to see who can run it faster :)
Printable View
Yes, those are the latest. I find the twist lock to work well but there are also holes to attach permanently if you want.
Just grab the Collator plate handle, slip clutch and ring.
https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/tree...lator%20Plates
No....I just need to get off my butt and order one more speed control! ;) But you have to admit....that's a good torture test. Should have zero problems at a normal speed.
Will print out that clutch and check it out.....looks cool!
You probably noticed that I ended up using one of my prox sensor bodies instead of yours as I intended on the Pro 6000. Reason was simple....I had no room for yours or mine height wise.....but I had broken the top of one of mine a while back.....turned it upside down....stuck a clear tube inside, which was the inside diameter of the spring I'm using and the spring was threaded into it resting on that tube. So that much shorter, it worked. Always a twist, isn't there, and flexibility is a must.
One more thing.....you can't have too many progressives.....the six holer needs to find its way to your house someday.....it is a fun one...and cheap too.
Well first I suck at cad. But my buddy who is good at it, has had issues with stl's importing and not creating weird surfaces. The box that I need modified ended up having a weird extra surface on it.
Pretty simple modification 2 10mm holes on the bottom as pictured and a square cutout for a power switch and a round one for Attachment 310409the PWM.
As you can see Fusion added that weird surface on the bottom which causes a weird print issue.
Like this? The square hole is 13X20mm that works for my switches.... since you didn't give a size had to guess...hole beside it is 8mm Dia. The two on the bottom are 10mm dia. as specified. Zip file has the .STL. I did not remove the existing hole on the other end. Let me know if that works......no did not use Fusion.....from an existing .stl .... I wouldn't. Used DSM.
https://i.postimg.cc/tgSfhz1k/box.jpg
Attachment 310424
That is awesome almost perfect! Thanks
Is there a motor that is best as far as speed and torque. I noticed my current feeder which I will be replacing has a problem after about 300 bullets
I just finnished printing most parts for a standard size collator on my Ender 5+ and I noticed that the collator plate comes out a little oval. In the tightest orientations the plate barely fit in the main body. The different lengths seemed to be alligned with the lines in the skin, so I created a simple solid for calibration and printed it in a few different orientations on the printbed and measured the length of the print. The results were as I suspected, worse in the diagonal direction.
Measuring the length on a part that was 140.0 mm in the model I got:
0° -> 139.7 mm
90° -> 139.7 mm
45° -> 140.5 mm
-45° -> 138.9 mm
0° means aligned with the X axis and 90° with the Y axis.
This explains why my collator plate is not round, but I still can't figure out what could cause the X and Y be of equal length but the diagonals be shorter or longer.
Does anybody have a good idea what to check?
This is the one.
https://www.amazon.com/Greartisan-Se...p?ie=UTF8&th=1
what is your current feeder/motor?
Sure sounds like one factor is shrinkage, are you printing PLA?
Howdy mates,
Cant wait to get this awesome build project started! :p
The 3D printer has arrived (has a 25cm build plate minus the skirtsettings), i installed OpenScad and started up the .jar Software... but I am at a loss as to what choices I should check :-P (Lousy english skills.)
I want to print both a case feeder, bottoms down (9mm & 45acp), and a bulletfeeder for my trusty StarSizers, point up(9mm & 45acp).
What boxes should I check for the optimal setup?
The motor you recommend above TyleR, I cant see the corresponding tag in the choices which option is this? (Amazing project mate, count me in as president of your Swedish fanclub! :)
Attachment 310568
Attachment 310569
I sure would appreciate your feedback on this mates!
(Btw, Is there a video explaining the choices?)
May the force be with you mates!!!
/Silverbullit now joining the printerowner section of castboolits :) :) :)
I chekced the gcode for one of the 45° prints and checked the length of movement when printing the outer perimiter. It was one line width shorter than what the model specified, so nothing wrong there.
Yes, printing with eSUN PLA+.
Should mention basically brand new to 3D printing, I got 30'ish rolls of different brand filaments and am trying them all out and eSUN rocks! (Great choice there mate!) Measurementwise I have A LOT better tolerances with PetG (same with the PctG I tried so far) proving to have much less shrinkage and seemingly equal in strength to PLA+ (actually slightly better in strength, also better properties regarding heat resistance, uv, chemicals asf) So if you have the possibility to print PetG it might be a grand idea to try out a roll and check out if the benefits helps out. It sure gives me much better tolerances, one thing I'm trying out is making 100mm cubes and they come out 99,76mm x 99,76mm x 99,76mm, that is no fiddling with settings at all with eSUN solid red & solid blue (looks more like Orange & Dark Marineblue in my eyes tho)
I tried a handful of sky blue/light blue brands PetG since eSUN does not have any light blue options that comes close to Dillonpress-blue. They all have one thing in common, they are sheit compared to eSUN PetG! Much much weaker, stringing, clogging and just a nightmare. Just cleaned clogs in the Nozzle/Extruder and the AMS *phew* literally stayed up most of the night because I get totally in to crepe when I do stuff :0
Anyways mate, with my humble findings I think it might be advantageous for your dilemma to check out eSUN's PetG. (Not their transparent stuff tho, go with the Solids)
Hope that is of some help...
(PS. If youre Swedish or the Northern frozen over bungholio as yours truly, just notice Elefun has surprisingly nice price on the eSUN PetG right now 215Sek (like 20 bucks) so I'm ordering 15-20 more rolls today since I plan on dragging my shooting mates in to TyleR and JsSeth's wonderfully amazingly hypnotizing projects! :))
The recommended motor is pattern 634JS. If you're looking for a similairly speced motor in EU you can try https://www.amazon.se/dp/B0875XW5X6 It fits the collator, but I have yet to try how it performs.
You need to select a sensor solution. Proximity sensor is the recommended.
You also need to select whether to use cross-shaft or hex coupler. The hex coupler should be easier to fit.
You have selected brass with base up, not down as you wanted.
The APP parts are kind of a separate project. You only want those if you're looking to improve a LEE APP press.
If you don't want a custom collator plate, you don't need to select anything from the collator plate generator tab.
Thank you Dosch!!! Really appreciated!
I got the zip file with parts for the printer however I am lacking something incredibly important, where do I find the shoppinglist for the electronics and instructions?
Also a quickie detail,
The Spring tube choices, what are they? What should I check for 9mm and/or 45acp? (I'll prolly end up printing two separately dedicated feeders for 9/45) ;-)
Thank you mate!
I look forward posting and sharing the build progression :drinks:
Silberbullit, check out page 5 of the "User Manual.pdf". There is also a list earlier in this thread of what fasteners are needed, some M3&M4 but also some more unusual ones like M2 and 1/4" UNC and even more obscure: 6-32. You can get away using M3 instead, but then you will have to hold the nut yourself while tightening.
https://castboolits.gunloads.com/sho...12#post5386312
You should print spring tube adapters that fit the springs you manage to source. A 13 mm ID would probably work for both 9x19 and .45ACP. However 11 mm is probably a better fit for the 9's.
Regarding your suggestion about shrinkage, I don't really see why that would be directional without warping the print in other directions. The only thing I see is that the top/bottom layers with the settings I've run are aligned with 45° & -45° but I think the perimiters would try to counteract that, especially on layers where there is only 10% infill.
Anyway, I'll try printing with concentric bottom/top layers rather than lines and see if that makes the round parts come out round.