Printable View
Once again, I don't think your issue is with the lube you are using. The xpress shell holder only allows extremely limited purchase on the case rim for extraction. I really don't think lube will prevent the occasional stuck case using xpress shell holders.
They only allow rim contact 180 degrees on each side of the rim.
I have resized more than 4000 556 cases with the APP. The key is having your brass clean and having it lubed up. I have gone over 1000 cases since my last stuck case.
I use hornady one shot, but I use probably twice as much as would be needed if I were using a different press. I throw a handful of cases in a 3 quart tupperware bowl and spray in the lube, shake vigorously and then spray again, and shake again. This does the trick. I use the spray lube because I have a case feeder and lubing one case at a time is not efficient.
On the very rare occasions I have problems, I will add a small amount of hornady unique case lube to the mouth of every 30-40 case or so. But when that happens usually the problem is a dirty die or brass that was not cleaned enough or something else.
I use Dillon case lube which is probably just lanolin and alcohol. My gun club sells it in the office so I never gave much thought to mixing my own.
It's not a lube failure then. It's a carbon interface failure.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jsm180
I got a tube of the Lee stuff and it works very well on Lake City 7.62 brass. Also 30-30. I will sometimes use Hornady 1 Shot on 9mm cases I'm running through my APP press .
I use Imperial Sizing Die Wax or Dillon case lube.
I would avoid using ISO-HEET since it contains Ethylbenzene.
There it is.Quote:
Originally Posted by mdi
It gets amusing to read praise for one case lube and hearty condemnation for others when it's usually clear that poor application is what causes most "lube failures".
Truth is, all commercial case lubes and many substitutes (Mink Oil, Bag Balm, STP, lanolin, toilet bowl wax rings, Chap-Stick, etc.) are excellent case lubes ... when properly applied. Nothing ever works very well if it's used incorrectly (and, IMHO, that includes Lee's APP)!
I am using Lee case lube which is wax based, mixed with 91% isopropyl alcohol. My brother and I ran about 1600 5.56 through the sizing die, we stuck 6 cases. I then ran 7 or 800 .30-06 cases and stuck 3, not too bad all in all. Even with Hornady Unique or a mixture of castor oil/alcohol I have stuck a few 5.56 through the years with standard shell holders, those cases are terrible in that respect.
I found with my APP press that very wet cases using the Lee lube/ alcohol mix, luring about 50 cases at a time and only letting them dry a few minutes worked best, they are very slimy and even the '06 cases sized sole easy. This press has a ton of leverage and is very strong, I love it!
Next thing you want is the primer pocket swage tool, it works amazingly well, I have reamed/swaged/cut/ whatever the crimps out of so many thousands of military cases that I probably have a year of my life invested, we ran 1600 or so 5.56 through my APP (using the Lee multi tube feed unit and colator) in a bit over an hour, and that was at a leisurely pace!
Anyway, plenty of WET lube and this press will size like crazy and you will never want to go back to your old press.
correctQuote:
Originally Posted by mdi
Bag Balm www.bagbalm.com
Lots better than Boudreaux's Butt Paste
STP is greasy but cheap and good , old school heavy duty type lube .
One bottle will last for decades...apply to a case lube pad and roll cases across the pad .
You can reform brass with STP and it will work when no other lube can get the job done .
Bag Balm is just a lot nicer and neater to use and good for many udder uses , check ot website .
Gary
i agree. But i use anhydrous lanolin which is the same thing but MUCH cheaper. You can get a tub of it on ebay for what a little container of imperial costs.Quote:
Originally Posted by Shawlerbrook
Imperial is great but I prefer the Hornady Unique lube in the tub. It is inexpensive compared to Imperial on a volume basis and it lasts about as long as Imperial ounce for ounce.
It is firmer than Imperial so it’s easier to meter out thin applications as well.
Three44s
I use the pure lanolin liquid and 99.9% alcohol as well. However, I go a little more lanolin liquid. I use 4 oz of lanolin to 32 oz of 99.9% isopropyl alcohol. I poured it all in a 40-oz spray bottle, shake for about 30 seconds.
I have a big bath towel that I lay out all of my brass out on top of the towel with all the case mouse facing away from me. I don't want to spray any into the brass mouth. Then I give all my brass a light spritzing. It's very easy to lubricate your brass too much with this so use it very sparingly. Once I have spritzed the brass, I pick up the ends of the towel and just work the cases back and forth in the towel about 10 times. You can then open the towel up and you can feel the lube on it. Once the lube is on the brass evenly, I let it set to let the alcohol evaporate off for about 5 minutes.
The alcohol is expensive, but you cannot use 70% or even 90%. It has to be 99.9% otherwise you're just wasting your money.
When buying the alcohol they make two different grades. One is a medical-grade and the other is industrial grade. I buy the industrial-grade because it is cheaper. This is the only place you can cut a corner on the alcohol.
Absolutely the best case lubricant you can make. You can't buy better. You can buy the liquid lanolin and alcohol on Amazon.
When the people fear the government there is tyranny, when the government fears the people, there is liberty. - Thomas Jefferson
Growing up I use what I had. Whatever cast lube it was Lyman, RCBS, or some other company that made lube. It was messy and thick, sticky and just didn't feel right. But that what they are telling me to use.
So one day open the draw and little bottle got a whole in it. All over and what a mess. Not sure what those bottles are made of but :( they don't last long, over they years I found many that leak.
Whatever light oil I can find. If neck sizing adding a little graphite so I see the bottoming out of the neck sizing.
Don't use too much oil or too little. Best I have found is olive oil, in fact any cooking oil. I get a heavy napkin use two old style coffee can lids one is a little larger then the other. Few drops of oil at one end and dryer at the other. All you need is for enough to make the case move in the die. What is the need for some special oil. As you are reading you are seeing many ideas
STP
Non-detergent motor oil
Case lubes of many types
Oils like WD40
Any light oil cooking oil,
Powder graphite.
All in what you have or find.
Over many years and many thousands of cases resized I’ve only used RCBS with a pad (didn’t know any different back then), Dillon, Imperial and straight lanolin. Straight lanolin is great for difficult to size cases like .500 S&W. A tin of Imperial will last many thousands of cases. The only times I’ve stuck cases it was 100% my fault for not giving the alcohol enough time to evaporate from Dillon lube and it was always when processing large batches of 5.56 military brass. I just got impatient. I size with a Rock Chucker; no experience with the APP.
After having to use the stuck case remover 3-4 times I guess I decided it was easier to wait a few minutes longer before proceeding.
Finally got around to trying it and it works phenomenally! There is actually a YouTube video of a guy breezing through some .223’s on the Lee App and he said this is what he uses. I put the cases in a baggy and sprayed it on them. Put them in the feeder and they went right through. This will be what I use for everything now. Thanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by fralic76
Heads up on 99% isopropyl, I ordered a bunch from Wal-Mart in one of my wife's grocery orders, very cheap! The only have 91% on the shelf when you go in though.