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What little case forming I have done I used an RCBS trim die and a fine tooth (32 TPI) hacksaw. I cut them a little long and used a case trimmer to smooth up the mouth. Trim dies are a little expensive and they make a mess if used at the loading bench.
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I like the little pipe cutter idea. can I use .308 or 30-06 cases for a .45ACP Case? Should I cut it exactly the length of the revolver chamber or a tad shorter? Do they cycle thru semi autos ?
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Wolfe the 308 work great, the commercial hs work better than the military brass for me. I cut some to use in a S&W 37 Brazilian. Floating around some where on the internet is a set of plans to make the shot shell dies for the 45 acp. Made a set several years ago and yes they will cycle in my 45 acp autos. For the revolver after sizing down the 308 case to fit the throat ,I cut them just short of the cylinder length. I also use 410 shot shell wads for these and a clear plastic wad over the shot to seal and keep the shot in, with a slight roll crimp to contain everything.
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If yer gonna be into the "Reloading Hobby" for looong time just BIT THE BULLET and get a small metal lathe. (HF will do!)
Use it (forever) for all sorts of odd case prep-trimming / reloading tasks.
GONRA's definition of a "small metal lathe" means its a SCREW CUTTING metal lathe with a LEADSCREW!
(I.e. NOT a slick-glossy-ad expensive Feels Good HOBBY LATHE without a leadscrew!)
(Watchout - probably will turn into a Great New Basement Hobby - MACHINE SHOP - that you missed in High School!)
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Clamp a portable jigsaw upside down in a bench vise and make a simple hand held jig out of a six inch length of two by four wood.
Drill a hole thru near the end to accommodate your cartridge.
Drilling across thru the nominal four inch dimension.
The case is then inserted to full depth and the cut is marked on the outside.
The wood and case are then both cut on the saw from the end grain and the cut is stopped when the saw blade severs the cartridge.
Poke out the two pieces and insert another cartridge to be cut.
A hacksaw with a 32 tooth blade can also be used by clamping the wood block in the vise instead to hold the case.
If the case spins, you can also make a cut lengthwise thru the end grain and the center of the bored hole to split the wood. A clamp can be applied to squeeze the wood to hold the cartridge from spinning while being cut.
My first jig was tight enough to hold the case. The second jig wasn't as tight for another caliber so needed a clamp.
YMMV.
The wood clamping/holding jig keeps vise jaws from buggering up what you need to securely hold to cut or file.
I hope my explanation is clear enough.
A metal jig is more accurate and longer lasting, but not everyone has the metal or is used to making jigs.
Everyone has some wood.
Its quick and if you don't get in a hurry it will suffice.
Wear eye protection when cutting metal.Little pieces fly everywhere when you cut.Especially they are thrown into the eyes.
.
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Have simple method. Cut V block from 2x scrap about 10-12” long. Mark where the rim needs to be in relation to length of case you want. Run block across saw to relieve for rim. You just hold case with thumb pressure and cut off with wheel in Dremil. I alway give a devils share so can square up on trimmer.
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For 45 Colt shotshells, I start with the brass Magtech 410 shotshells. They use a large pistol primer. ballistic products.com
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I’ve used my small band saw by clamping a stop on the table and putting a dowel in the case and turning it but I also built a fancy rig to trim 223 into 300blkout with a HF mini chop saw. And the hacksaw/file/cut off die on the reloading bench which does make a mess.
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Will the little Harbor Freight metal saw blade cut nickel cases? Mine cuts brass very good but was thinking about some nickel 223 cases for 9mm and 380 shotshell loads. Maybe a thin cut off wheel would be better than the metal saw blade. Nickel plating is tough to grind or cut.