That's what it reminded me of ... just couldn't remember where I'd seen it. It looks like the same paint they put on Tungsten weights. It sure is slick.
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It even comes in glow-in-the-dark.........[smilie=p:TRACERS ANYONE?:bigsmyl2:
Due to this thread I have tried coating a few boolits with Pro-TEC..........if the stuff actuallly worked shooting wise, applying a consistent coat would still be a major hurdle. I cured a few also and was actually able to post size the boolit and it came out even slicker feeling in the sized area.
The only thing I know for sure is that a Flo. Orange boolit sticking out of a nickel 357mag case looks both neat and odd.:veryconfu
I would love to know what this coating is.
Someone has to know what this coating is and how to apply it?
357maximum,
Do you really think it is the Pro-Tec powder coating?
Have you shot any of the boolits you coated yet?
With powder coating static electricity is what makes a nice even coat of the powder and then it is baked on at somewhere around 400 degrees. I just did some in red by dipping and it's way to thick.
Anyone want to try = TEFLON/MOLY OVEN CURE, GUN FINISH
Mfr:BROWNELLS
Price:$32.99
I have a can if I can find it .Will try doing some 45 200 gr swc and some 6.5 x 55 lead sleds
should be fun ?
I have not a clue if it is the same stuff or not, but it looks the same to my eyes.
I shot 6 of em with the 4 inch barrel installed on my Dan Wesson 15 and hit the 50 yard rock with em all. I then took the barrel off for a good inspection.......looks fine by me. This was done on some 150 grain RNFP BRP boolits..........seems like it could work, but the application process is a major [smilie=1: . Electrically charging the boolit would seem to be the right way....but that is beyond me for the time being...........I have enough unfinished projects.:roll:
I post sized them after application and 20 minute 350 degree cure by pushing them through a lee style push through to make my uneven application look better and to theoretically make them more round. Seemed to have worked OK.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/atta...1&d=1278548075
That's ridiculously cool!
I'm glad you guys are chiming in,,, it took s bit for the,, thread to catch,,,
but hey,,, I still think,,, this is the biggest thing to happen to booooolet casting in,,, ????????? since,,, wax lube,,, whenever that was,,
I'm going to check out the Australian web sites,,
How did you actually apply the Pro-Tec? What was the method to your madness. The boolit looks great. I might get a jar of the powder paint just to have some wild boolits.
The facility I work at has a dept. that applies Epoxy Powder Coating . . . . aka Powder Paint.
One method is dipping the preheated part in a tank of powder agitated by warm dry air. The powder in the tank has the appearance of boiling. Parts are probably in the tank for ~5secs.
The second method is static spray. This is a similar setup
http://www.gbmindustries.com/pcat-gi...r-soating1.jpg
Again, our parts are preheated, then sprayed in a draft booth and on to the curing oven. The spray comes out like a fog and the 'dust' moves towards the parts and even wraps around it. Pretty weird to watch.
Don't quote me on the temps, but I recall the preheat to be ~400degF and the cure temp at ~350.
I think we preheat for a more uniform flowout of the paint.
I can ask the painters any questions you may have.
Painting some at work is not out-of-the-question, I just need to be judicious with the timing and requests for assistance.
Don't think I haven't already showed an interest. A lot of 'government' items get coated as favors, although I've not inquired about boolits.
'da Kid
Doby
I heated up a dozen boolits to 300 degrees in the oven. Took the now hot boolits and laid them on a cold steel lid from a holiday "tin" and sprinkled the powder on and over them while moving them about until it looked like an even coating. Then took the now coated boolits and placed them back in the oven to cure at 350 .....turned the oven off and forgot about them until cool. Real similar to the way I do jigheads actually..I just do the jigs hanging from the rack though.
They came out looking ok and after a pass thru sizing they all looked pretty good but the coating was not 100% perfectly even. I did notice that the sizer actually made the paint feel slipperier than before.
Without some electrostatic means of applying the powder cold I do not see PERFECTION in the application happening though. Maybe it does not need to be perfect...............I DUNNO
I have all the flourescent colors, glow in the darks, purple, white and black.........could make one very interesting box O' ammo eh. :lol:
I did a dozen 30 caliber TL plinker boolits this morning.....I will try them in the winnie when the rain stops.
This powder only sticks to statically charged or hot surfaces.........might be a way to use either trait to your benefit...........maybehaps.;) If it did foul the bore at some point I am not sure how you would remove it though.
What about good old Auto paint?????????
Acrylic Enamel, Acrylic Urethane & Acrylic Lacquer
they look good,,
you can mix it and shoot it in small batches,,,,
air dry??
has anyone tried it??
Just got in from shooting the 30/30 plinker boolits at 1k fps. Grouped just as good as my normal LLA + MICA and the bore looked fine.
Not real high on the priority list but I do intend to push some faster and retrieve one after it hits my sandpile with some speed at some point.
Mike you are a flippin orange bullet shooting ninja. Now I need to get me some of that dayglow yellow powder and see if I can make me some "fancy" boolits.
Well, as long as you're putting paint on them, I'll take some silver ones with a black stripe, and some with flames down the sides. :D
So far I have had the will to resist giving them a black an white eye like I do on my jigheads...........SO FAR :lol: Maybe painting them like they did the WWII planes....nah nevermind. :holysheep
:bigsmyl2::bigsmyl2::bigsmyl2:
You guys are killin' me!!!
Gear
Ok I tried out a couple of things. I remembered that at work there were some left over cans of something called Plasti-Kote spray paint. When i looked in the flammables store there was just this Glass frosting spray left. Still the description made it worth a try. I also found a can of something called Clear Gard which is intended for coating electrical items. Again the description sounded promising as a bullet coating.
I coated ten bullets, RCBS 245 gr. SWC, with each.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a0...D720/ry%3D480/
Application was quick and easy. Both were touch dry in ten minutes. Both sets of bullets had a slick waxy feel to them afterward.
I used the usual load I use with these bullets of 10 grains Vectan AO for 1260 fps. with my usual floor polish lube this is a consistent one hole grouper at 50 meters from my M94.
Here is the fifty meter (55 yd) group with the clear gard coating. The highest shot was a called flyer.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a0...D720/ry%3D480/
Afterwards the barrel appeared dirty and the crown was considerably greyer than usual.
Things improved with the Plasti-Kote glass frosting.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a0...D720/ry%3D480/
Also the barrel appeared cleaner and the crown went back to being black. So I think we can call this a success.
Bear in mind this is shooting prone, unsupported, with the 'scope set on 3.5x at an aiming point not really suitable for 'scope use.
The Plasi-Kote products are sold over here in most DIY and hardware stores, so no doubt you will find them, or something similar elsewhere.
Andrew's glass frosting sounds one heck of alot easier to use then the Pro-tec.................thanks.
We are going to have to work on the term for this though.........frosting already means something else.....................can you have double frosted boolits? :lol:
No lead ring around the boolit hole either..........apparently it is staying put through the firing process..hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm
This thread is definitely getting interesting! The ease-of-use is definitely tempting too!
What are the guestimated negatives to using something like the plastikote as a spray-on lube? Build-up in the throat/barrel? Is it corrosive?
Has anyone tried this in 9mm yet?
I have make a tumble with moly/graphite boolit lube before the only thing I do not like is the "smell" upon firing but no leading. If some one wants I will send 4-5 ounces to try out (1-3 people not everyone) can be tumbled or sprayed then sized.
bruce
funny thing I make industrial lubes for a living but I use LARs BAC lube Not dry lubes
Found a can of plasti-kote black "rust not" paint hiding away on a shelf.:smile:
http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a0...D720/ry%3D480/
One problem I found is the difficulty in getting an even coat all around the bullet. if trying to do more than one at a time some will always be partially shaded by others requiring a second spray over. A lot of extra hassle if doing more than ten or twenty.
Anyway here is the fifty metre group fired under the same conditions as the test with the mirror frosting.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a0...D720/ry%3D480/
For comparison here is a group shot just prior but with bullets coated in the usual floor polish. Premier Products Platinum 25. The "25" refers to the percentage of solid waxes in suspension.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a0...D720/ry%3D480/
What was the condition of the bore afterwards?
Oilfield equipment here is painted with a 2 part epoxy paint. The brand that three of the major service companies use is Jones-Blair. Both the paint and the primer are similar. This stuff is TOUGH. I believe it is a type of PVC. Once the hardener and paint are mixed, it has to be used within a specified time, even putting it in an airtight container won't prevent it from setting up. So it can't be put in spray cans. They use spray cans for touch-up, but it is not epoxy based.
I hadn't thought of it until I read this thread, but I am pretty sure it would make an excellent boolit coating. Stuff is fairly expensive, but a gallon would coat a lot of boolits. Boolits could be sized after dry. It is also very slick. Once this stuff dries on the exposed threads of a bolt, you will nearly strip the threads getting the nut off!
I wonder if there is a slight build up around the rifling that you aren't noticing just yet? Similar to the use of Jacketed Bullets. It takes a while to notice any buildup, but when it does it's a pain in the tail to get out.
Are you bringing out a clean patch when you clean it?
I have been reading this thread with great interest. Since I have no luber. The bullets I have, have been tumbled lubed. Which works well with LEE bullets that are made for that kind of lubing. But since the next mold I am considering buying is not a LEE mold, but one with actual lube bands.
Sooo, what about Krylon Fusion it is a polymer based spray that is supposed to chemically bond with plastic? I wonder if that would work.
Tried reasearching Premier products 25 the stuff is made in England I believe the it would be pricey to obtain. Thought about going to a Lowes and looking for a similar product.
Anyway just thinking out loud.
I have found a paint, that might work,, but the paint store has to order it,, it is water base and can be sprayed,,, it comes clear,, and I hope to be able to test,, adding color to it,,
Just to know,,, lets say,, I come up with a good
Formula,, and some directions of how to apply it,, if someone,, was to sell a bottle in a kit, that would coat, 5000 to 1000 bullets,,,
You would have to have a air compressor low volume gravity feed spray gun,
I will have to test,, other ways to apply this product,,, in testing when I get it,,,
How much would a bullet caster be willing to pay for this?
How bout something right in front of us and no one mentioned it YET :)
BBQ Paint it takes the heat and comes in a spray or a two part Spray BBQ
and tumble in a lite Floor wax yes two handling's but may make an absolute
Clean Lightly smoking Boolit
Great thread opens the Mind
Tom
I have tried other paint in the past,, but the ones I used,, were dirty,,
I don't think I did the BBQ paint,,,
But I can't remember,, it was along time ago,,
All I can say is give it a shot, see what happends,,
the key,, I think is,, Clean! loading and shooting,, fast,, not a long prosses, and 3 more steps to do,, in casting and loading,,
and the one that,,, may help in the end,,, making a cast bullet GREEN,,, accross the pond they have some green standards,,, and they say these bullets, are good to go!!!
so looking ahead,,, like it or not,, this may help our, Hobby,, more than you might think,,, right now!
That sounds like a good option too!
with all of the things,, we can get our hands on,,
with testing,, I'm sure we can come up with a "Lube"
that does not smoke,,, and leaves the barrel clean,
:p
This is a totally cool thread! Even if none of these ever pan out they certainly have given me a lot to think about!
If any of youse who have these paints try them, please post your results and what your "lube" was, load (maybe pics?) etc. I don't want to let this thread dissappear like the others that discussed this approach. Here we have actual options as to paints that might/should work. As someone said earlier, this can be a revolutionary development in cast lead boolits.
I tried Krylon window frosting on some 257 boolits. It was brittle, could be scraped off with a fingernail , and definitely did not stand up to sizing down .003. Bummer. Paid $6.49 for it. Anyone need a window frosted?