A Grobet 6" Diameter 4 Row Brushing Wheel .003 Stainless Steel carding wheel will lightly remove the original blueing without cutting into the steel.
https://vimeo.com/352736801
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A Grobet 6" Diameter 4 Row Brushing Wheel .003 Stainless Steel carding wheel will lightly remove the original blueing without cutting into the steel.
https://vimeo.com/352736801
I also use Carding Wheels when doing Slow Rust Bluing.
They do not gouge into the metal or buff off the bluing.
I will have to try buffing the stripped metal with one before I re blue the metal first coat.
Great suggestions above. If you want a shooter grade and want to proceed without much prep work I would go for a matte finish.
I certainly understand not wanting to buff the gun till it doesn't look like a Colt, and has no sharp edges. But if the bluing is gone, it has no finish left, why the worry of any collector value as that ship has already sailed. A quality blue job is best, but it most likely has next to no value as a collector only as a shooter so. Spend the money to restore it or give it a usable finish and enjoy it.
I’ve soaked many, many complete rifle stripped down to parts in 100% vinegar over night. I made a PVC tube capped off at the bottom. I install the barrel and completely submerse in a vinegar bath for at least one day. Sometimes two but usually not needed. They look like bright stainless the next day. Zero sanding or scrubbing needed. You just want to neutralize the metal parts immediately when you take them out of the vinegar or they will rust. I normally run them under hot water and dry them off very quickly. Then I start with the Oxpho blueing. I have sold many guns to members here and they can detest that’s a nice beautiful shiny bluing is just as nice as the old 60s and 70s shiny “old school quality” Remington finishes that guns don’t come with any more sad to say. All it cost is a $14 bottle of Oxpho blue. You don’t like it afterwards….take it in and give somebody big bucks to finish it for you. All might’ve turned out better looking than factory finishes in my opinion. Just gotta take your time and put on a lot of coats. You can also use 0000 steel wool which is basically needed to remove the excess bluing between coats anyways. The only time I ever pull out sandpaper or file is to remove deep pitting.
Been restoring and remarking old single actions for years. Do not get your Colt anywhere a buffing wheel! Remove the barrel and spin polish and hand finish around the front sight with 800 grade paper. Hand polish the trigger guard and back strap with 400 paper and then go to 600. Hand finish the frame the same way. Wrap your paper on a paint stick to keep surfaces flat. You can send your frame and loading gate to a good case color guy. If your Colt is pre 1890 then rust blue the parts. If it is modern then a NaNo3 hot salt bath will work fine.
If too much work /time involved....then try wet bead blasting.....this leaves a dull shine very smooth finish ,ideal to take hot blue..........dry bead blasting leaves a much coarser finish.
amen!Quote:
Originally Posted by waksupi