Go buy a lotto ticket
:bigsmyl2:
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Iv'e tried the dishwasher method when I was testing loads or just shooting BP and they cases were pretty dinged up. Yours dont kink anyhwere?
Are you talking about a vibratory or rotary tumbler?
In the vibratory, I use cob or walnut. If I'm doing brass, I put a squirt of car polish/wax in it. Nothing if I'm polishing parts or what have you.
In the rotary I use stainless steel chips rather than the pins. I don't have near the issues with pins sticking in the necks or elsewhere. A squirt of Dawn is all I use.
A squirt of automotive chrome polish makes a big difference in how fast a load gets clean in my experience.
I like walnut more than corn cob just because it’s faster and it also seems to last longer before it needs replacement or charging with some sort of polish or abrasive. You can find it cheaper than the gun shop if you buy some brands of reptile bedding or kitty litter.
Don't try to over think something as simple as case tumbling. Men have reload brass cases since about 1880 and until about 1980 without tumbling at all so it's obviously not mandatory.
Our fetish about shiney cases, inside and out, is cosmetic, it adds nothing to accuracy or case life. Fired cases used to be wiped clean when each one was picked up for sizing and that still works quite well.
Both crushed cob and crushed shells are sold for tumbling media because both work very well and are moderately inexpensive, especially considering how long either one will last if we don't glob it up with excessive "polish" (as seems most folks actually do).
Don't use sand in a tumbler, not only will it abrade the brass but any particles of grit left inside will surely scour your bore. Steel pins are quite expensive; they're heavy and they ONLY work in (wet) roller tumblers, not common viberators.
Don't know what kind of "beads" is being talked about but largish beads won't work as well as smallish and enough smallish beads to do the job (at least a quart?) would likely be much more expensive than cob/nut.
Worry about what you will but I don't think primers contain traces of "lead styphinate" anymore and they haven't for a long time. If the lead content in primers were a legitimate health problem we'd have frantic California type warning labels all over the cartons; there aren't any. And, if spent primer lead was a hazard, I'd have been stone dead 40 years ago; as it is so far I only look and smell bad.
I think sand would work and have been tempted to try it myself to get a better clean. I don't see how any sand could be left on or in the casings.
I do get walnut dust inside and out using lizard bedding. Walnut cleans better than cob, so if I use it I run again in cob to remove the dust.
Winger Ed, sir,
Tell me more about using spent primers. Is it the cups, the anvil, or both? And what ratio to media do ya think works the best?
I use lizard litter and have a separate bowl with 2mm ceramic beads I use for BP brass. I use water and a squirt of soap in that, then move them to the lizard litter.
I've not heard of ceramic beads. How do they do for cleaning vs stainless pins?
Forget going to a gunshop for tumbling media. look for a large welding supply house instead. Should have both corn cob media and crushed walnut shells in 50 pound bags. Do the math and you should find you will save money buying the 50 pound bags. Where I worked we had a 6000 HP gas turbine. Had a few oil leaks which basically killed the efficiency of the turbine. take the cap off a small air inlet and filled a 2 pound coffee can with crushed walnut shell. When you take the cap off the sir inlet it's like a vacuum. take the can and stick it over the inlet. Will suck out all the walnut shells.Then the whole turbine room smells like roasted walnuts. Then go back to the control room and watch the efficiency go up. Was called feeding the turbine. I haven't even used half of the corn cob and walnut media so far and bought the bags some years back. Frank
I always have a little media get away as I go through the process with it.
One day, instead of buying more, I had a bunch of spent primers that had accumulated in the loading room.
I threw them in there for filler. It worked pretty good.
I had a little trouble with some of them getting into bottle neck cases and had to poke 'em a time or two to fall out.
I've since bought new corn cob media, but I save it for the bottleneck cases.
I use the old stuff for straight wall cases, and the spent primers are about 10-15% or so by volume.
I wash them for possible lead dust residue before I toss 'em in, and wash & dry the media itself when it gets sort of greasey feeling.
Its just a easy fix when ya get low on media and are gun shy about using rice.
I wouldn't recommend it specifically, and I let the tumbler run all night in the garage so I don't know if its faster or not with them.
Its a cheap solution when ya get low on media, or are too tight to buy more until ya find a deal on it.
Lots of great advice here- Lizard litter and NuFinish are my go-to's. I have also gone to Harbor Freight and bought the coarse grit walnut blasting media. $25/25# and mix it with the litter for a "Kentucky Windage" method of medium. Works like a charm.
I quit tumbling my cases. Tarnished brass is the badge of an experienced reloader. Kids tumble their brass.[smilie=p:
For dust control when using dry media, throw a used dryer anti-static sheet in with the brass and media.
i use a harbor freight concrete mixer with 10lbs of 1/8 stainless ball media , abt 3 gal of water and a teaspoon of dawn, i can do 6000 9mms or 2500 plus 223s at a shot, then spin them thru the dillon monster media seperater to remove the water and stainless media, then batches in a 1 gal bucket with enough Isopropal alcohol to cover then, a couple side to side twists to make sure the cases are fully soaked, then back thru the dillon seperater to remove the alcohol and onto a 2ftx4ft 1/4" screen box with a window fan blowing on it to dry them overnight