My modified baking works with the Hi-Tek coating and it does pass both the acetone wipe and smash tests.
My modified baking works with the Hi-Tek coating and it does pass both the acetone wipe and smash tests.
Don, If you want to test some powder coated bullets yourself send me a PM. This way you can set up your own control group and see what the PC bullets do in comparison. I'd be happy to coat a few dozen for you and mail them back (I'll pay the return postage). I'm curious as to what you'll find. Let me know, all I'd ask in return is for you to report to the group any data and pictures you get.
I just started shooting again after surgery so hope to have something useful to post soon.
I have just gotten into the PC craze and tried the tumble method which worked but I really like the slick shiny look of the gun. So I picked up one and been coating everything. So far I have shot a few different weights in my 300 BO the ones that worked before coating still grouped good the ones I was hoping to perform still were lacking. I coated some 405 gr for the 45/70 loaded with 40 gr of imr 4198. I let my son try them in his marlin and 5 shots at 60 yards (distance from shop door to backstop) grouped under a inch. The same load in my BFR kicked so hard I had a bad flinch so pasted it off to my son that soon flinched but two of our shots were touching. So if nothing else so far I have a load for his rifle. Still working on using almost pure lead in my 300 BO since at the lower speeds expanding is the problem I believe its failing me on deer.
From an AR15.com thread:
http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_1_5/157...d_.html&page=3Quote:
Powder coating rifles and high power handguns though, that's the stuff! It's super easy to apply and holds up perfectly at any velocity you might want to shoot them at. I've done over 2900 fps with powdercoated rifle slugs with very good accuracy. Not top tier jacketed bullet accuracy, mind, but excellent practical accuracy- generally a hair over an inch to 3 inches depending on gun and bullet at 100 yards.
PC does add maybe 1-2 cents in cost to your bullets for the ultimate cost min-maxers, but it is easier to apply than tradiitional lubrisizing and doesn't require a lubesize press and dies- just a cheapo electrostatic gun and a spare toaster oven you probably already have.
From that craphole of a forum? I call bullchit till we see some kinda proof.
Maybe he is talking about two shot groups? I have yet to see (or do) a 1 inch group of more than 3 shots with P/C. I don't even know why a 3 shot group is standard with so many shooters anymore. Is seems on this forum the standard is 5 shot groups, but shouldn't it be 8 or 10 to really call it accuracy instead of a fluke?
I just sent that guy an IM, so..... we'll see, I guess.
Nice I wouldn't complain about that.
What boolit/alloy?
I'm going to try lee155-312 pc in rifle length20" w/varget. Maybe spring before I get that far though.
I have been using Freightmans dry tumble method, Freightman was the pioneer for the dry tumble method (it's the fastest, cleanest, easiest way to coat) Loaded some 30-06 with Rx7, unique, and 2400. The Rx7 looks to have the most potential. 27 gr of Rx7 with the 150 gr Lee boolit was 2100 fps out of my cheap Mossburg ATR 100
Attachment 93082Attachment 93080Attachment 93081
If I ever spring for a .308'ish mould, preferably a hollow point mould, just to give you a baseline, this is what I did with jacketed in my 7.62X39 chambered AR:
http://i603.photobucket.com/albums/t...dyardgroup.jpg
Soooooo... is the gun going to do any better with lead, powder coated lead? The velocity probably will never get above 2,200 fps since it is a 7.62X39 .
Maybe I will spring for an AR-10 in .308 one of these days.
My goal with PCd cast boolits is cheap projectiles for rolling tin cans. I am doing so with all of my pistol calibers, .223/5.56, and 30 Carbine, so far. I have some 30-06 loads to test, and am waiting on my 300 blk upper to test those. I am certain I will be able to roll tin cans at 100 yards as easily, if not easier than using my AR or Mini 14 shooting .225 PCd boolits. Plinking accuracy has been easy thus far, but bench rest type accuracy from PCd boolits will certainly be a challenge. I'm sure I'm not the only one to consider the following hypothesis.
In order to get bench rest type accuracy I think the projectile will need to be swaged rather than cast, and then PCd. Swaging should provide a projectile without voids and with greater consistency as to weight. A good alloy could be developed, that alloy swaged into wire, and that wire cut precisely as to weight. That slug could then be formed into the projectile with fewer steps than swaging a core and jacket into a formed projectile. That projectile would then be PCd and likely be the most consistent as far as boolits go. Chime in folks, I'd like to hear other opinions.
Perhaps we need to experiment with casting under a vacuum to remove voids. It would not be Too absurd to build a vacuum chamber with window and gloves so that the furnace and mold fit inside and can be seen and operated.
1. Put together a "Test Box" and ask NASA to cast some on a space walk, then you get the micro gravity effect too. Ooops, guess the molten lead would just float around.
2. I tried Swaged .224's, coated with Harbor Freight Red. Not pleased with the results yet.
See thread: http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...oup-Buy!/page2
Posts #23 and #24.
I have some more loaded up using 15,16, 17, 18, 19, and 20 Grains of IMR4895; hope to shoot them later this week to see how lower velocities fare.
Thanks for the input, I appreciate the additional comments. I would think the process of swaging the lead wire would deal with the void issue and from that point you are forming the slug/wire into shape. I don't know from personal experience but I've read as many threads as I can and that's how I perceive the process. Oh, that and I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express a few times.
Seriously though, some folks cast cores for swaging and some folks swage the wire first to avoid imperfections and voids. I'm just thinking that swaging the wire into the projectile and then powder coating might create a boolit of greater consistency for use in chasing the tighter group.
Don, I typed the above while you were apparently posting as well. My 'minute of soda or tin can' reference is a tongue in cheek way of adding some redneck reference of accuracy. I read somewhere the standard for the military is 4" at 100 yards. That is also what Ruger claims for the Mini 14. Yes I know the AR and the Mini are both capable of greater accuracy than 4" and soda cans aren't 4" across.
Anyway, the issue is accuracy at greater than 1800 fps. My .223/5.56 loads are over 2250 fps and holding an 1" to 1.5" either lubed traditionally or PCd. I haven't started pushing the .223 faster as of yet but will soon.
I've got some 30-06 loads ready to test out and I will be working them up in increments to find the sweet spot. I think it will be doable and I promise to take lots of pictures. The rifle is dad's sporterized 03-A3. I'd like him to be able to blow off some rounds punching paper with a gun he hasn't fired since I was a kid. It grouped 3 rounds under a quarter with factory so that will be my mark. Heck, dad put 3 under a dime once but I think there was some mystical planetary alignment going on. It will be fun to see what this rifle will do with PCd boolits.
In jewelry casting one method of reducing voids is to place the investment flask on a vacuum table. The plaster usually used is porous enough to allow the air to be pulled out.
I wouldn't want to try large scale casting that way...
I cast some 22cal Bators out of Lino and coated them. Did not heat treat this time so will see what happens tomorrow. Hope my cheek does not cause me pain like it did a few weeks ago.. Got some handgun stuff going along also so will shoot it first. I'm going to put my 21" 22 K-Hornet barrel on a Contender pistol frame. Loaded the 45gr Lyman with no gc with 3 coats of the Extreme Hi-Tek catalyst. Should have starting velocity with 7625 of about 1,300 fps and when it tops out have some loaded with WC680 that should top out around 2,700 fps. Will be an interesting experiment.
I'm very excited to get back to this test with my .308
I just ordered a new NOE 311365 5 cav. mould. They finally have them in stock. They should be right at 200gr after GC and PC.
Should be a better match for my 1:10 twist over the Lee 180
I still have about a half a pound of HF black. I think I'll try to get some red.