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I used the broken handle of a hammer upside down. Wrapped the end with friction tape for a grip and the other end wrapped with a thick rubber tape, then several layers of aluminum tape and then fiberglass tape for heat resistance. Drilled out the end with a 3/8 bit deep enough to tap three .38 special wadcutters in there then poured a bit of molten lead to seal them in. Makes a perfect thumper/sprue plate opener and bullet drop persuader for me.
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12" piece of 3/4" PVC tubing, clamped one end in the vise, heated with heat gun until I could bend it over to 90 degree's causing the pipe to pinch shut. Small piece of steel wool driven into the end as a stopper. Then added ladle fulls of hot lead until it felt right.
Pvc takes some damage, but is easy on the molds. One rap on the sprue plate, another on the handles hinge and the boolits fall out. Quick, cheap, and if I need to I can grab a new piece of pipe, remelt the lead.
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I have an old axe handle that is still very solid even though it broke just below the head of the axe, rendering it useless for anything other than use as a heavy stick. I'm going to cut it down to a handier size one day but haven't done so yet.
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I save pieces of shovel/hammer/rake/etc pieces of broken handles. Work great for several thousand, then replaced by a new one. BTW, the beat-up-mallets make great firewood in the chimenea.
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There are diffrent hardnesses of rubber caps for cap hammers. I also have used a slimline 8 ounce dead blow hammer, it was really handy and useable. Carried a good puh thru type blow to the sprue plate. Im currently using a cap hammer with soft caps and its working good. I may play with a lead hammer here shortly I can easily make one up. My existing hammer mould is to big at almost 2 lbs wieght. But it wont take much to make one.
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1 Attachment(s)
Attachment 162410I generally use a welding glove but I did make a Lead Hammer by drilling a hole in a 2X4 with a Forstner bit sticking a handle in and filling with lead.
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I’ve got some wooden table legs (oak) and plan on turning them down like a mini bat. Then drill out about a one inch hole in the top and fill it with melted lead. Then pin it in. Should work like a champ. When I make one, I’ll post a pic.
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The tee could be left intact and aluminum flashing wrapped around the ends and held with the pipe clamps use the same flat stock and c clamp to seal ends. lead shouldnt stick to the aluminum allowing it to peel of when cool. I would leave the lead ends 1/2"-3/4" proud of the tees ends. Utilizing the tee will support the head and the hammer socket will last much longer. Here a piece of flat stock 3/16" thick X size of tee wide drill several 1/8" hole thru end where its in tee and lead to lock in place I locking grooves can be filed or cut in with a hacksaw also) then attach wood scales to each side for the handle. Doing it this way I would consider adding a short piece of tubing in the tee to extend handle grip by an inch 1" to 1 1/2" for a better hold.
A hammer seldom starts life with a flat face but is crowned so that te center is supported and higher. This last much longer. Making a couple caps from aluminum to the tee and have the crown in them would extend life.