Exactly what I was looking for. Thank you.
Printable View
Exactly what I was looking for. Thank you.
Edited - Never mind. Think I answered my own question.
W0FMS, thanks for making this very easy.
Stu
N0LEF
It isn't fancy, but it doesn't need to be. Here is my new PID controller. I put it together for about $50. Thanks for the help, guys.
http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/d...controller.jpg
With that colour at least you won't lose it! And you're right, it doesn't need to be fancy, just functional. Keep it simple.
Bodine, I would like to thank you for posting this. I used your schematic to wire my PID, and it works great.
After trying to explain how to hook up a PID unit I've made some adaptions to part of somebody else's drawing and came up with this. After trying a couple methods I've found it's easiest to save the image with a right click and loading it into MS Word for printing. If you are interested in a JPG file which is easily altered with MS Paint PM me. Any suggestions on bases I didn't cover would be appreciated. Changed the thing a bit. Do have one available for
SYL-2352 and one Mypin model. PM me if interested.
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u...psqibziukc.jpg
I used a 30 cal ammo can for mine. That might be an option depending on what you want.
Hey all,
I like many others are getting into casting, couple questions, is it okay to melt your wheel weights in your pot such as the lee 420, I want to do this to control the temp in case there is any zinc, don't want to go above 725. with all this talk about thermo couplers couldn't you just put water in the pot and see what temp for each number on the reo-stat. ( I know not to get water near the pot with lead in it)
any thoughts would be much appreciated.
Brian
Lees pots don't really have a thermostat, they're the bimetal type controller, and have large temp variances. Water boils at 212*, so that won't be much help for you either when you need about triple that temperature for casting. I normally don't use a casting worthy pot to smelt because it usually introduces dirt and other contaminants to the pot, and they can be difficult to get clean again. Get a good thermostat and use it to set your temps, and don't rely too heavily on Lee pots for fine temp adjustments.
I'm thinking about building a PID using the components mentioned in this thread. Is it possible to use the same PID for a toaster oven (for powder coating) as well as a Lee Pro 4-20 casting furnace? They would not be used at the same time, I am more interested in whether it will be versatile between the two. Thank you!
I'd suggest you check Auber's Q&A on what TC to use for the toaster as some have faster response times than others according to them.
I was looking at the MyPin TA4 SSR temp controller. Also, in reading over the components suggested, I am slightly confused as to why the original parts list suggests a 20A fuse as opposed to a 40A fuse if the 40A SSR is used. Perhaps I am overlooking something though. I greatly appreciate all the input!
'K' long probe - high temp insulation, long braid protected leads. Fits in the pot or in a hole in the side of the oven. 40 amp SSR is about SSR reliability - runs cooler - when properly heatsinked. Heat is a killer for the SSR. 15 amp fuse is for wire fire protection only - I don't use one, the Lee pot doesn't have one either. It will NOT protect the PID, SSR or anything else.
I did read earlier that a good grease is needed for between the SSR and the heatsink in order for it to run correctly. If the fuses aren't needed, I might just skip them then. Unless they are just used in tandem with the indicator lights to show that a short has occurred?
Got Mine built, works AWESOME. Thanks for all the info off this thread.
http://i1302.photobucket.com/albums/...pspmsqw8rf.jpg