I spent some time casting yesterday but it's raining today and I can't do any PC until the rain stops. :(
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I spent some time casting yesterday but it's raining today and I can't do any PC until the rain stops. :(
Beagle did you get a chance to run that CR vs PC test yet?
Yes, I did that just today. :Fire: The .45LC wasn't very conclusive, only 4 fps difference in the average of 12 rounds of each, with the CR lubed being the 4fps faster. I guess maybe the slow (750fps) SAA loads aren't that influenced with such a heavy boolit?
But the .357 was 44 fps faster (again, 12 rounds each) with lube than PC. I was getting 1354 with CR lube and 1310 with PC.
That isn't a lot of difference.:-D
And I cleaned the gun between tests, so there was no lube influence left when I shot the PC. I selected all same-weight boolits and kept powder charges exact, and also used the same die immediately in succession to ensure the same crimp.
Well didnt have same special report,there work great,great accuracy,function,no special dirt in barrel...Also this mold will be soon avaible from MP Molds in 135 grain BB and 125 FB
Attachment 94141
For plinking a little velocity is a non-issue. For hunting, if PC will stay within 50' or so of conventional lubes, I'll be happy with it. That's nothing a smidge more powder can't fix.
The bullet I want to hunt with needs a certain velocity to stabilize and shoot well; whatever load I settle on has to be just above that floor, with enough room to spare on cold days, but without going any higher due to recoil issues. It would be nice if I could hit that narrow window with the same charge weight regardless of whether I was using PC or conventional lubes. I figure that folks loading hollowpoints for self-defense will have similar criteria they use to judge their PC loads.
I got a ? I preheat my stove and it holds the temp at 400 with no problem. I spray my bullets and stack them on my cooking tray and slide them in the oven. I read on the bottle HF to cook for 20 mins after the PC starts to shows glossing or a shine. The thing is my temp drops when I add the bullets and stays down almost until the time is up. Now they pass the smash test and wonder if I need to cook longer or just not worry about it.
I'm baking mine 20 total.
Some have said they are going 10 and that's it.
Several of the guys are doing the 20 mins after gloss like you said, too.
I guess it's just whatever works with your oven.
I preheat to 400. I haven't tested the temp after I put them in. I just set it for 20 mins and go do something else. Mine makes an unpleasant smell when baking and I assume it's probably not good to breathe.
I'd let that be the answer to my question.
FWIW I mixed some HF black with my HF red and it took longer for them to 'cook'. I just left them until they turned glossy, then cut the oven off and let them cool. After a few minutes of cooling I sacrificed one bullet for destruction testing and it passed.
I know it has been mentioned before but we should really avoid using blue powdercoat. If a round gets left behind for some reason or another, someone could mistake it for a sim round if they had little experience with them. Blue is internationally known as inert/practice as far as ordnance goes. Just sayin'
10 min is the time I have found that works! Saves you time and electricity. I can do TWICE the number of slugs at that rate. All pass hammer test.......the REAL story!
But do what you feel best. Most all commercial powders out there are rated 10 @ 400. I have no idea why HF came up with those funky non-standard directions. Mabe there is no word for "10" in Chinese??????? HA....ha.
ALWAYS use a preheated to 400 oven. And make sure you are using a convection NOT a standard oven. Conv spreads heat more evenly with the fan and provides a perfect bake. Standard ones have severe hot spots. Conv ovens do cost more.......but what is your potential lack of frustration with poor boolits worth?????
Most inexpensive ovens do NOT have any accuracy in temp control. Get an IR temp gun at HF for ~$24 and shoot the boolits in the oven. My high-end convection oven is right on and maintains setting well. The $3 cheepee junk store oven I started out with (non-convection) had hot spots over the elements (sagging boolits) and cold spots in the middle and sides (340F) when set at 400. In the trash with that one!
Have fun coating!
banger
Common sense tell you not to pick up a round off of the ground that is not yours and shooting it. You never know if is a dud, or a uber hot, blow up your gun load.
Anyone picking up an unknown round off of a bench, or ground and shooting it at someone thinking it is a marker deserves what they have coming. Just sayin...
There are all blue live rounds, too. See:http://www.warriortalk.com/showthrea...tice-ammo-uses
That's just the first one I came to.
I think only the "holes in the case" type is a reliable indicator.
FWIW
I was getting a thick buildup of powder on the 3/16 aluminum plate that has rows of screws to put boolits on. Found a good way to get the cured powder removed. Use a chisel narrow enough to get between the screw heads and the powder coat chips off purdy quickly. Need to wear safety glasses or better yet face shield as the chips really fly.
If I remember right Safety Glasers are blue too.
How did these perform...........hammer test and shooting?
From what I have read, the top coat is used with certain candy and metallic just to make them shine better and look "deep". Is it as tough as the other powders we all are using? That would be my big concern.........hardness compared to the standard stuff.
Do you have any results yet?
Your advise is greatly appreciated!
banger
Hey Banger, here's what I just posted in another thread- http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...25#post2591625
Adding this- I polyester PC clear coated some golf club heads for a friend and did the obligatory smash test on a cast bullet, it seems extremely durable.
Appreciate it! I will have to get some and play around.
We are getting too many threads to keep track of!!!!!!!!!
good stuff.
banger