NICE! can you wait till christmas?
snoops buddy
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Oh boy, yaw we can wait for Christmas....
http://www.patmarlins.com/snooper.jpg
And I'll be a good boy I promise...
http://www.patmarlins.com/snoop2.jpg
haven't had a chance to take a photo of the chart yet. things kinda hectic here with my wife being sick. having to bring her to and from doctor's and hospital's i think i met up with myself a couple times on the road. today we got back from the doctor at 3:00 pm, truck driver call's at 4:00pm, says i'll be there in an hour with your mill. had to do some scrambling but we got it in the barn. will give it a looking over tomorrow. will try to get photo's soon. doctor tomorrow 1:30pm, monday 2:30pm. i think i'll just move in with em.
skimmerhead
Sorry I'm late in responding to this..
I bought a rotary converter off ebay. It's a rated for 3 hp. The motor on the Enco mill is 1.5 hp. I had never hooked up a 3 phase converter before so I actually read the instructions.
http://images49.fotki.com/v1496/phot...55/ee14-vi.jpg
It was actually pretty straightforward. I used 10 gauge wire. The circuit I hooked up to was an unused 20a. 220v compressor circuit that is only about 6 feet from the new household circuit panel.
http://images44.fotki.com/v1487/phot...55/pc13-vi.jpg
http://images44.fotki.com/v1488/phot...55/pc12-vi.jpg
It's been going 2 years and 1 month now. No problems. I run the Enco mill sometimes hours at a time without shutting off when I'm doing scope mounts one after the other. I wouldn't hesitate to recommend the American Rotary converter. I did ask Buckshot about his mill and he went with a VFD. I saw the rotary converter as a less potentially troubling system due to the simplicity. K.I.S.S. The Enco mill runs 100 rpm to 3200 rpm. At the top end speed the converter generator does dip down momentarily but it comes right back up to speed once the mill motor is running. 3200 rpm is really singing on a mill.
I just installed a column riser on the mill. It's the Grizzly green piece. They were on sale for $180. Cast iron. It gives 4" more spindle to table measurement. That's the one major fault with the Enco 100-1525 mill. Grizzly has discontinued their version of this mill though theirs is a 5 speed 1ph whereas the Enco is 10 speed 3ph. I expect there were fewer of these "baby" Bridgeports sold than the full sized Bridgeport clones. I've been very happy with this mill in the 2 yrs since I bought it. It's paid for itself 2x now with nothing more than scope mounts.
http://images58.fotki.com/v506/photo...F3069fr-vi.jpg
Dutch
thanks for the photo's, very nice, neat installation, i like that. that mill looks like new. i got mine in the barn but have not had time to look it over except it came with a big Furnace electrical box on the side that all the wires go to, and the the motor is 3 phase. i hope tomorrow i can get to go over it a bit and see what's what. i had been thinking of how to attach that thing to the cement floor and then i saw your mounting and leveling set up and really like it. i have the 3" sq. tubing and 4 7/8" similiar bolts from a cummins diesel i had. i think i'll put em to good use now. i'll post some photo's one day! i can't find the camera! thanks
skimmerhead
My middle name: overkill :)
The load bearing nut is on the bottom of the box tubing. I turn a shoulder on it to fit into a hole to keep things centered perfectly. It was supposed to be arc welded together but has not as yet. The square plate on the bottom is 5/8" thick. I drilled into the plate with a 1" drill to produce only a 60 degree female "hole". The leveling screws are 1-14 all-thread with a 60 degree male point that "floats" in the 5/8" plate and a 3/4" square drive on top.
You need to mill "windows" into the backside of the box tubing for the mill bolts so you can put a wrench on them during assembly.
http://images46.fotki.com/v1516/phot...CF8283b-vi.jpg
http://images49.fotki.com/v1519/phot...CF8290b-vi.jpg
Dutch
i know the feeling! i like my lil atlas but that hole thru the spindle sure could be a bigger. i'm hoping to get a bigger one before the end of the year. there are a lot of used machines available at good prices but the problem is the shipping. it's either local pick up only, or the freight is allmost as much as what you pay for the machine. unless you can go get it yourself it's a futile attempt at getting a good deal. hang in, santa might show up one day! here youv'e been a good boy this is for you!! :-D
skimmerhead :drinks:
What you got going on there, the space shuttle Danny?
My CNC spindle drive control is still down. Had sent the drive boards down south to be repaired, went down and picked them up even, as if they got lost I would be screwed. Installed them and they still don't work ..:roll:
It's the last part of old electronics that have not been updated and retrofitted. Do we have any electronic techs that can trouble shoot old board electronics at the component level here at CB?
That almost looks like you got a transformer there and it's input may be 110v single phase.
What's the bottom number on the brown paper tag say that the pic cuts off?
Never saw that setup. Look at what the final input is. The output of that switch is what the motor needs obviously, but check the input- or where they had it hooked up for evidence.
Now I see the 3 wire diagram, it looks like you could hook up an inexpensive 220v single phase to 220v 3 phase transformer to that unit and be good to go.
A large one to handle the load probably find one for $100 bucks used.
That small box removed was probably a transformer like I described.
That diagram shows a fairly standard looking reversing contactor set up. L1, L2, L3 is standard notation for the 3 main power lines in a 3 phase set up.
The transformer is there to step down the control voltage so that you don't have more than 120vac going through the start/stop push buttons. I think that OSHA has something to say about that being the maximum that is allowed. 24 volt is more common these days, but 120 does still exist in some places.
The small box on the back of the machine was probably a disconnect box with a safety lock-out on it.
If you want to post a picture of the diagram that came with your VFD, I'll see if I can sort out which wires go where for you.
It's been a few years since I've fooled with that stuff, but I've done board level repairs on a few dozen VFDs over the years. I've done the same on an Analam Crusader CNC control & a Bendex Dynapath CNC control too. I've done some interface work on a Fanuc 6T, an Analam 1100 & some Swedish controls on an Abean.
Let me know what equipment you have & what paperwork (drawings etc.) you have to go with it. I'll let you know if it sounds like something I might be able to help you with.
thats kinda what i figured that box was. everything i read on phase converters say's you need an input disconnect box near the machine. so now i have to decide on a phase converter or a vfd and bypass that old system, will make a decision this weekend and order one monday. any suggestions anyone? thanks Jim
skimmerhead:veryconfu
If you go with a phase converter, then you will want to keep the original motor starter box. You can bypass it of you use a VFD.
For a system with a low mass start up load, like a mill, a static phase converter should be fine. The more expensive rotary phase converters do a much better job with the kind of heavy starting loads that you get when you run heavy parts on a lathe. The funny thing about the rotary type, is that they seem to run happiest when you preload them. If you have more than 1 motor running on a rotary converter & you switch just one of them on or off, then it will hardly skip a beat. They sometimes make a bit of a fuss when you go from zero load to full load all at once, but they still handle that sort of thing much better than the static type does.