I can't really answer your questions, and I don't suspect anyone who is regularly reading this thread "currently", can either.
But I can tell you the following:
Regarding SL68B.
I'll try to explain myself here, but first must qualify myself, that I don't know the chemistry and can't explain all the Long chain, straight-chain, branched-chain theories ...and I am not on a quest to re-create or simulate Navy wax.
What I started out doing when I first posted of making SL68 (no suffix), was to try a Lube that Geargnasher mentions in the "Quest" thread, that worked good at normal temperatures as well as in the Texas Heat and he hoped would work in the Cold as well...and
Eutectic tested to temps I wouldn't be shooting in :)
Here is one of his reports:
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...54#post3069554
...AND... would function in a lubesizer WITHOUT HEAT...and also wouldn't migrate from the boolit to the powder when subjected to 'Hot car in the Sun' temperatures.
Onto "my tweeking" of original SL68 to SL68B:
It started out as a way to 'stretch' out my microwaxes, that I had onhand and to make a more uniform mix on a batch to batch basis. I had discussions with Gear and others (Here and on other forums), that a more complex Wax (which Navy wax seems to be), would be better than a wax that isn't complex. So mixing bits of what I had onhand, all of a sudden seemed liked a great idea. That is what I did, the 3rd time I made this lube and then retitled it SL68B. I used a blend of the 3 different microwaxes I had onhand, as well as beeswax. Beeswax just has some magical properties, that I (and others) think will be good in a boolit lube, even if the percentage is small, which in the case of this recipe, is 5%. Now it's tricky to blend Beeswax into a liquid that is 460º, when beeswax scorches at 320 or 360 (I don't recall exactly), but StarMetal suggested to premelt the beeswax before adding, then crash cool it, that process was successful.
OK, with all that said. no one else has tested my version, and no one else probably will. But for my intents and purposes, it "is" identical to the original. For my shooting, it's been the cat's Meow, I'll continue to test it...which may take years. I like how the lubesizer applies it. Yes it is on the soft side, but when handling boolits, it stays in the grooves and has a greasy/hand lotion feel, It is not sticky like most Beeswax based Lubes and doesn't built up in my fingers or seating die while reloading. Another "feature" I reported about it, it shoots clean in revolvers...doesn't grease up the outside of my gun, like beeswax based lubes generally do.
When I get my 30-06 back from the gunsmith, I have plans to do more testing and posting of that gun's use with SL68B on the TLC312-160-2R.
Jon
PS:
I think it was mentioned more than once, that some here would consider buying some of this lube. I can say, "I will never be making this for the purpose of selling it" ...and I can only guess that no one else will either, because of the process of cooking/blending it. I can only imagine making successful batches of this on a small scale with normal household lube cooking tools. Of course, there are those who are much smarter than me who may figure out how to easily make large batches of this lube, successfully.