Sounds good. Unfortunately I gotta make do with what I can find, all the W-W pistol powders are extinct here. Whenever I encounter any available pistol powder I go ahead an buy some so I can keep shooting.
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Sounds good. Unfortunately I gotta make do with what I can find, all the W-W pistol powders are extinct here. Whenever I encounter any available pistol powder I go ahead an buy some so I can keep shooting.
Glock doesn't allow ANY reloads, hard, soft or jacketed.
Check item #5 under "Limitations of warranty", here:
http://us.glock.com/customer-service/glock-warranty
I was chastised for drifting off topic earlier in this thread and you guys are turning it into a How-To-Alter-Your-Glock thread. The last two pages have very little to do with cast boolits in Glocks.
Jerry
Jerry,
2,000 fps is quite impressive from a G19. :)
Cat
In my quest to get a workable trigger on my 26 I ordered the Ghost Edge connector and installed it. From the first trigger pull I was amazed at the difference, even compared to the Ghost 3.5 that was in it. Just what I was looking for: a light takeup and then a short and smooth double action type pull. Gone is the abrupt break with lots of over travel to pull me off target as before. Best $22.00 I ever spent on a gun part, I would recommend the Edge to anyone!!
Got to go to the range today. Shot my Ruger BH with both the .45 and .45 Colt cylinders, as well as my Golcks, both with hand loaded cast bullets. They all three did really well, altho I was really out to see how the Glocks performed with the cast loads. I found that Red Dot smokes like hell, but I did get acceptable accuracy with the .45, and the 9mm was using a Lee 356-120-T/C bullet lubed with Johnson's paste wax, loaded with 4.3 gr. of Herco. I ran 100 rounds through the 9mm with nary a bobble, and while both of the pistols were dirty with powder residue, there wasn't a trace of leading in any of the guns. Didn't see any devils or evil things happening to either pistol, either. That load is a really easy -to- shoot load, it seems less intense than a factory hardball.
That Herco is a slower powder, which helps keep the pressure down. Will remember your good experience with it and the Lee boolit in a Glock. Mebbe I'll encounter some before I retire...
Finally got a Storm Lake barrel for the 26 and had a long range session today. The SL barrel beats OEM in accuracy with every slug I tried in it; FMJ, plated, and lead. The Ghost Edge connector takes some getting used to but once I got the hang of it I was making nice clusters. I can't understand why but factory Glock barrels have never been very accurate for me. A factory stock Glock pistol is a difficult gun for me to shoot. If nobody made replacement connectors and barrels for these pistols I probably wouldn't own them.
Don't know why it double posted...
Wonderful!! Now shoot it until it breaks...if ever.
My Glock 21 is over 5,000 rds with no failures. This is using it and abusing it for load development, carry, blah, blah, blah.
My wife's Gloc 17 (Gen 1 like a boss)...well I can't really remember any failures in that gun and we bought it used years ago and have fired a whole bunch of 9mm through it.
Just good, solid, and fun guns.
Does your SL barrel require you to hit it with the juice like your factory barrel did?
Yep, it's a good feeling when you get a gun lined out the way you like it. The throat on my new barrel is a little tight, which caused some of my fat boolits to hang up chambering. FMJ and plated are 100%. I'll send it to Storm Lake and have them open it up a bit. This company has outstanding service after the sale and they turn it around fast. Better put a few more rounds through it first though! Love Life, what do you mean by "hit it with the juice?"
Max charge or near it. I thought it was your gun that shot better with more speed/powder, but I may be pulling a Brian Williams and misremembering.
Oh I see. I find the Storm Lake barrels really like the Lee 356-120-TC at 1000 fps so thats what I stick with. I have no interest in anything stronger so never tried it. As far as OEM barrels go I have always found they shoot best in my shaky hands with light loads. I really dont know why I can't get along with fast twist 9mm barrels. They seem to magnify my shooting errors.
Just found this one funny!
Very funny although I think accessory rails, front and rear slide serrations, and skeletonized everything on a 1911 make about as much sense as a flintlock and a blunderbuss muzzle on an M16.
Joining in on this thread, hope my questions are Ok.
I see this thread is 7 years old but still active?? I'm interested because I have a Glock 22 Gen. 4 I bought when O' won his 2nd term. I only ever shot jacketed through it but knew when I bought it I would buy an aftermarket barrel. I ended up with a Storm Lake barrel which has served me well, but I only 400-600 rounds through it, mostly 175 G. truncated wheel weight lead, water dropped with my own lube. I have a looked and looked but I never see any lead in it. Is that normal?
Also I did search on Lewis lead remover. Got mixed reviews from Ruger forum. They all said it works but expensive but doesn't 0000 steel work wrapped around bronze brush work just as good? This is what a Bench Rest gun smith taught me to use and it sure works well on custom 6PPC barrels with MV at 3500 fps +
I intended to read the whole thread (I hope, 25 pages now).
Personal note Page one done.
Jim,
It's results that count. If your load shoots the way you like and leaves no lead you're gold. Since you're (probably) hardening your boolits by water dropping them that may be why they're working so well. For my Glocks I have to water drop. I watch my alloy and make sure it's 20+ BHN after 48 hours.
A lot of us here use the copper mesh from a Chore Boy scrubbing pad to remove leading but I don't know why the steel wool wouldn't work too.+ I'm a bit more comfortable with copper in the bore than steel wool even though the wool is way softer than the barrel, the copper is waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay softer yet. :)
By the way, I shoot both aftermarket and factory barrels with lead. Zero leading here also.
Good luck.
Cat
I think the fast twist has caused me more problems than the poly rifling. My Glock 19 with 1:16 Storm Lake barrel is the most accurate 9mm I've ever had, even more so than the German made Sig P-225 I used to have.
I was scared into this thinking when I purchased my first Glock, a 17 Gen III. I immediately bought a Lone Wolf barrel. From day one, I had issues with leading, from minor to very severe. After several months, I committed the heinous act of firing a mag through the factory barrel. SUPRISE! No leading! The Lone Wolf leaded far worse than the factory barrel. My G-17 now has approx. 10,000 rounds of cast through it. I have since added a G-30s and all it has ever been fed are cast 230 gr. RN and 200 gr. SWC. I have pushed the .45 up to 950 fps and the 9mm to 1,050. Zero issues.
This would make a great stickie.
^^ This .....
Also, the main reason you aren't supposed to shoot cast lead from Glock barrels is not really because you will create a pressure problem shooting cast ONLY -- its those people who shoot 1000k lead bullets through their Glock and then try shooting a box of FMJ without having cleaned it. INSTANT pressure problem.
The lead will be fine... its when you mix and match that pressure issues can occur.
This is true only if you are experiencing leading in the barrel from shooting lead bullets. If you are and it builds, you will enjoy the same high pressure situation you would with jacketed rounds. Theonly experience I have had with polygonal rifling is with a Tanfoglio 9MM. It has never leaded no matter the alloy or velocity. I size all my rounds .357 and have had no problems in any of my 9MM pistols. I don't believe the Tanfoglio rifling is exactly the same as the Glock version. I have a 40 top end for my Tanfoglio but it used the standard Ballard rifling.
Take Care
Bob
Been trying different boolits and diameters in my Storm Lake equipped Glocks lately. Contrary to what you might expect my pistols have a definite preference for .356 boolits. Accuracy is better and velocity is even a little higher.
Today I tried out the Lee 358-125-RF in my 19, they drop at 130 grains from my mold. I sized to .356 and adjust the lube sizer die so that it fills the crimp groove with lube . Seated to 1.040 over 3.5 grains HP-38 they are accurate and function 100%.
Looks like I may be able to swing a new Glock 42 .380 here soon. I already have dies, brass, and a pile of Lee 356-95-RF ready to go. The 42 has poly rifling of course but I'm thinking that it should take to a .357 boolit just fine, given the relatively low pressure and velocity. What say you guys?
Ferguson,
You sorta make it sound like the factory 42 barrel will only work with boolits due to the low pressures of the 380. ?
Lots of people make the 9, 40, SIG, 45 GAP, 10 and 45 ACP work, why wouldn't the 42?
Were you aware that Glock is this month going to be delivering the model 43, a slightly larger than the 42 9mm?
Cat
I wasn't insinuating that it would work only due to the lower pressure but rather that this would be even more favorable to boolits than a higher pressure round. Should've phrased it beter. The 43 looks sharp but in a pistol this size I want a .32 or .380. Besides, it's a new cartridge to try!
You may have noticed in my other post that I have a Kahr CT380 now, and am having lots of fun with it. I've never loaded this cartridge before so I thought I would get my feet wet with the CT380, which is cheaper and has standard rifling. The .380 sure is a nice cartridge, and I bet it would be even funner in the Glock 42. So I'm saving for one and hopefully can swing it some time in June.
Well I now have a 42 on layaway. Went to the fun store today and they had a used one under the glass with night sights and all the factory accessories for 375.00. The owner told me a guy bought it new from him a few months ago then just had to have a new 43, and so traded it in. So hopefully I can get it out soon.
Bob: the Glock Pistols don't really have a true polygonal rifling . You probably know that,,,What they do have is standard rifling with Radiused lands instead of square lands. Why they think this is polygonal is beyond me. I guess it kind of looks like it but only loosely speaking
True polygonal rifling was invented specifically to defeat leading. It is nothing more than a circle with 4-5 flats that are twisted. IE a Twisted Polygon .
I really wish that Glock would amend this term that they use to describe their barrels.
They don't lead any worse than any other kind of rifling. In fact the Melonite coating they use on the barrels is so slippery you would have to have gross fitment issues in get any leading in the first place.
I bet this has been explained on this thread 25 times, but I just heard a "Certified Glock Armorer" the other day insisting that if you shot lead boolit in a Glock it would surely blow up.
I told him he needed to go back and do his 4 hour Armorers Class over again, as the only thing he could really be certified for, had nothing to do with Glock Pistols.
The amount of ongoing mis information on this subject that survives day to day is appalling
Randy
I hope the 42 likes my boolits, I have the Lee 356-95-RF and 356-102-1R sized to .357 ready to go. I do think Glock's rate of twist is faster than it needs to be though.
Bailed out the 42 today. Was itching to try it so I slogged through the wet field to my little range. As a baseline I tried some PPU and Remington FMJ. All went bang with fair accuracy, pretty close to dead on after I drifted the rear sight a bit to the right to compensate for my usual pulling shots to the left with a Glock. Then I tried 3.1 grains HP-38 under the Lee 356-102, a load which my Kahr CT-380 likes. Holy smokes, one ragged hole in the bullseye! Granted this was only at 12 feet or so but we're off to a very good start.
Upon cleaning I found there was no more fouling or evidence of lead than is usually found in my Kahr CT-380 or Storm Lake equipped 9mm Glocks. Will try the Lee 356-95-RF next.
Tried the 356-095-RF sized to .357 dipped in LLA over 3.1 grains Bullseye yesterday. The pistol shot this load well, however I did find a few little flakes of lead and more fouling than with the previous 356-102 I tried. Do Glocks usually get along with surface lube boolits?
You may need to double dip those in LLA. I find that all ducks need to be in a row with tumble lube and then things tend to work ok. Also, you may try and use a tougher and/or larger (.358" if it chambers) boolit as skidding of the rifling can happen with the polygonal rifling when using softer alloys. Skidding of the boolit can also happen with traditional rifling when the rifling is shallow. The boolit needs to be able to take the rifling without skidding due to RPM's etc.
Will do, thanks. The 356-95-RF doesn't appear to have as much bearing surface as the 346-102-1R.
Been shooting the 42 with boolits alot lately, especially the Lee 356-102-1R. This pistol really likes 'em, what is surprising is that it has a definite preference for .356 instead of .357 sizing. Accuracy is better and less fouling, in fact the fouling is much diminished. Randy Rat's Tac-X lube helps even more, man that is some good stuff.
Last night I was shooting these boolits over 2.9 grains of Bullseye. Was making one ragged hole no problem, which is no small accomplishment for me. I fired ten of them through the chronograph and was positively amazed at the results as shown below. After firing a full box the bore was still very shiny and alot less fouling was dislodged by the brush compared to when I was using .357 boolits and 50-50 lube.
2.9 grains Bullseye, .356 100 grain LRN, Tac-X lube, Federal primer no. 5HM111, .971 OAL.
Low: 982.2
High: 1013
Average: 999.1
Extreme Spread: 31.17
Standard Deviation: 11.35
Energy: 221.62 foot-pounds
So, does the Glock 42 like boolits?
Attachment 145320
My two Glocks went to the range today, along with my new Ruger. The Ruger shot way low, but as I shot it last and it was hot with not much ventilation, I'm going to blame that mostly on myself. I did try the True Blue Loads through the Ruger, and it ran without a bobble. The 30 did well with various loads, but it's showing a partiality for 5.1 grains of Green Dot. I didn't try the True Blue loads today in the 30. The 19 is such a joy to shoot. It eats any load I put into it, the recoil is light ( for me, anyway) and it's pretty accurate, no modifications to the pistol at all. All three pistols used the same boolit configuration, the Lee 120 TC for the 9mm and the 230 gr. TC for the 30. And no, the cast boolits didn't blow up the Glocks, again!
Last weekend I fired the Lee 358-125-RF sized to .356 with Tac-X over 3.4 grains IMR 700X through my 19 and 26, with both the factory and Storm Lake barrels. Much to my delight, no discernable leading in either of the Glock barrels and very good accuracy. The Storm Lake tubes are still more accurate and closer to point of aim but the difference is alot smaller than it was using .357 boolits and 50-50 lube. It is surprising that all three of my Glocks strongly prefer .356 sizing. Maybe Glock bores have gotten tighter over the years as none of these pistols are more than two years old.
So far Randy Rat's Tac-X has worked superbly in everything I have tried it in. Hard to believe it costs only 10-20% of commercial lubes that don't work nearly as well. I do believe it helps the Glock barrels get along with boolits. Gonna try the 356-120-TC next.
If that is the boolit that you sent to me, you'll like it. I size mine to .357 and use Carnauba Red with no leading at all.
122 grain truncated cone, that's the one.