I've been following this thread since day one. I've seen nothing but good, useful information. I sent a PM to Staff nominating this thread to 'Sticky' status. I think it's certainly worthy of that.
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I've been following this thread since day one. I've seen nothing but good, useful information. I sent a PM to Staff nominating this thread to 'Sticky' status. I think it's certainly worthy of that.
^^Agree 100%
Been quiet for some time now. I had a personal adgenda to be able to fire a 10 to 11bhn in 40 sw using sammi specs and crimp with the coating. Been one heck of a learning curve but it is possible. It functions w/o leading so far in Taurus, Sw, HK and Glock. For those of you wanting to try it it will work. Here is my recipe. Using either gold or black. Mixed 5-5-1. 1.5 teaspoons of mix coated 3 times baked 375 for 10 minutes out of a preheated oven. Overall coating is 4.5 teaspoons on 5 pounds of 180gr round nose around 200 boolits. Now making the bullet harder requires MUCH less coating but this works with accoww. I have a ton of coww and didn't want to re-smelt and add antimony. here is a recovered bullet out of a glock 27. Fully coated after firing. I ran 4 magazines and had nothing but powder fouling in the barrel. Love this HT supercoat. Good luck. Now to the 9mm. Attachment 76053. oops sorry it's upside down. Looks like it hasn't been fired I know.
That must be one of those Aussie bullets.....it's upside down! Lol
The coating is flammable before it dries, basically you are just waiting for the solvent to evaporate, once the solvent evaporates you are good to put them in the oven.
I also want to say, heating times are going to vary from oven to oven. My ovens cure the bullets in 8 minutes or less. I use industrial pizza ovens that blast hot air on the top and bottom of all the bullets. The little ovens work great, but try your own times. I think the test of wiping the bullets with MEK or Denatured alcohol has been covered.
I have been coating alot of gas checked boolits and found out a few things.
Install the gas checks prior to coating. If the boolit is more than .002" oversize run it thru the sizer. I use the RCBS case lube on the pad if I do this.
Even if you do not run the lubed boolit thru the sizer wash them with soap and water. Handling the boolit seems to transfer skin oils to the boolit plus gas checks have oil on them. Dry them and heat them to about 150 degrees in the oven for 5 minutes or so. The reason is if there is any water under the gas check the gas check may pop off the boolit when baked at 375 degrees. I have had this happen even though the boolits were air dried overnight in our 100 degree plus heat.
I have also found that coated boolits that you size down an extreme amount seem to do so without distorting the driving bands. The boolits just get longer.
I am going to do some more range testing soon and also now that my Saeco hardness tester is fixed will test water quenched boolits for hardness after coating.
I just loaded up my test bullets I received and I was very happy. No having to wipe the loaded rds off after loading and no luby fingers. So far so good.
My wife has a convection oven she uses to bake polymer clay, a synthetic crafting clay. She wants to know if baking this stuff leaves any lingering odors in the oven. Janet told me I could use her oven if the coating won't stink up the oven and the smell get on her polymer clay.
Anybody have any feedback on that?
Did y'all notice the thread now has 'Sticky' status? Thanks, Willy!![smilie=w:
This is looking very interesting. It would be nice if the manufacturer/anybody put a "how to do it," aka directions, link/pdf. I have read through the thread, and will do so a couple more times letting this sink in. I like study, and trial and error, and I like directions. Here is a stupid question, what is 5-5-1, I assume it is five parts stuff/coating with 1 or 5 parts catalyst/whatever with 1 or five parts whatever/unkonwn product? It is a "two part" product from what I have seen. I use 45-45-10, and I know what those ingredients are. Also, how toxic is it? Thanks in advance.
It the end, now matter how much arm chair "activity," I eventually pull the trigger and get "... my hands to play with (it) to get full scoop for me." No substitute for action.
<-----beating his chest, grunting, and looking for something to smash.
Jim, I just went and did a sniff test on my converction oven that has only been used for this process. My sniffer aint great but I did detect a kinda burnt hair smell. Probably not what you wanted to hear, but I bet its better than an unhappy wife. Everybody know if momma ain't happy, ain't nobody happy.
I'd much rather err on the side of caution. If there's any, even remote, chance that the smell from this process is going to linger, I sure don't want that imparted into Janet's polymer clay jewelry. Ladies don't like stinky jewelry.
Thanks, LS, do 'preciate the feed back!
Now, the search for an economical convection oven will commence.
5-5-1 refers to 5 parts poly, 5 parts acetone and one part catalyst. some are thinning to even 6 and 7 parts acetone but they are running harder bullets than I am. I have had no luck thinning with softer bullets. With 45 acp pressures I could probably get away with 2 coats, with higher pressure stuff and soft lead it takes more product. Just FYI. I found the gold much easier to read and dial in heat wise. The black is not as telling. In the very beginning I was over baking. Had I started woth the gold that prbably wouldn't have happened. The gold will tell you really quick if you put too much time or heat on them. They turn more brown instead of gold. Hard to see that as easily on the black.
Once I got my times dialed in with the amount of alloy my oven could handle all is well. I have two small oster convections. They too use forced air heat but can only heat and hold about 5 lbs of alloy to prper temp at a time. In other words I am baking 4-500 boolits at a time with both running. I can do roughly 1000 coated 3 times and sized in little over an hour.
The standard formula is 5 parts color, 5 parts solvent (I use denatured alcohol), 1 part catalyst. Directions are provided with purchase of the coating. Some trial and error is involved since each oven is different. I have the directions in PDF somewhere... but I learned more on the phone talking to end users in Australia. If you have any questions let us know. I have been using the coating for about a year, some of the first bullets were loaded on Donnie's press and tested with my M&P.
i dont smell it either jim, but iam skeeered for ya. Odors may appear, even though we cant smell,, chemistry is strange.
We are a HTS sticky, yay! Thanks.
"its shake and bake mama"
Leadman, one member had sized and gas checked after HTS.
jmortimer: its easy and tons of fun, no smoke, straight shot, clean dies,etc..
Buy the 36$+fedex (1/2) kit donnie sales. Convection toaster oven/mine at kmart.
Watch 1 & 2 below;
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NU7P...eature=related
A trip to the local wally world produced what I need. I will need to heat the measuring glass and a bend a pour spout into it, but other than that I'm set. I still have my metal mesh frames from prospecting and plenty of mesh and wood to make more drying and baking racks.
The oven was on sale for $34.99 and for $4.00 more I got me a 2 year replacement warranty.
Success!!!
[QUOTE=gunoil;2302421]i dont smell it either jim, but iam skeeered for ya. Odors may appear, even though we cant smell,, chemistry is strange.
You can say chemistry is strange, but I say women have a better sense of smell...
Good on you guys for clarifying some of this. It makes more sense. I like the simplicity. No more questions until I am ready to spool-up. I'll just keep watching and learning. Thanks again.