Hey there, I was describing myself, not you at all. Sorry if I offended, I certainly did not mean to do so.
Vettepilot
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Hey there, I was describing myself, not you at all. Sorry if I offended, I certainly did not mean to do so.
Vettepilot
DICTIONARY
"Anal Retentive"
PSYCHOANALYSIS
noun
1.
a person who is excessively orderly and fussy.
(That's me!)
Vettepilot
Thanks to all for the feedback. I guess my assumption about sulfur was on par with what you all think...which is pure sulfur is just that..pure sulfur. Just read so much talk about how rubber makers grade should be used, yet rubber makers grade is usually 99.5%+ pure...& mines at the 99.9% pure grade and just couldnt figure out what the difference was between the two considering i knew that sulfur doesn't actually make soil acidic but that the chemical reaction is what causes the acidity. Just couldnt get a straight answer. My black powder is great...got my formula down to where it outperforms swiss..but if there was a slight possibility of making it better by just changing the type of sulfur then i was gonna try it. Thank you all for helping me clear up that whole acidic sulfur notion.
Sulfur basically lowers the ignition point of BP from what I have read. Unless you are shooting a flintlock it probably doesn't make much difference. One US Army Tech Manual on improvised munitions describes making powder from sugar, ferric oxide and KNO3.
During the invasion of the Philippines 06 ammo was reloaded using match heads for primers, brass curtain rods for bullets and a number of concoctions for powder including movie film chopped up.
I have some powder made with CC, sugar and KNO3 but haven't tested it for velocity etc.
Bob
It will be consistent IF all your ingredients measure the same each and every time you mill it AND mill it the same length of time. Don't change anything! I've attached a chart I made to give exact calculations of each ingredient (kinda takes the headache out of it) from .5-10 lbs. of finished BP.
Attachment 229882
Wow, nice chart. Thanks!
Still gathering up odds and ends here, though my ball mill and press are in storage 7 hours from here and I won't be headed that way till Christmas to pick them up. :cry:
Vettepilot
Your welcome! Yea I remember you mentioning getting your stuff at Christmas. I probably would have done played hooky form work and made a road trip already! My ball mill (home made) is turning a bit fast so I ordered a pulse modulator/motor speed controller for it.
Attachment 229957
Looks nice! How much too fast is it? You can buy an adjustable pulley for that motor. The sheave halves can be adjusted for varying the pulley width, causing the belt to ride higer or lower on the pulley. The effect is literally of changing the effective diameter of the pulley, and thus changing the gear ratio and the speed of the drum. It is surprising how much difference in speed you can achieve doing this, and the pulley doesn't cost that much. They are commonly used on evaporative air conditioners. ("Swamp or Water Coolers")
Here is one:
https://www.amazon.com/Dial-6123-Var...70_&dpSrc=srch
Vettebob
I'm sure you know this, but I will mention it. Be sure to double check the motor shaft size so as to order the correct pulley...
Vettepilot
Yeah, that's winging right along. Seems like I've frequently read that 60 to 85 rpm is optimal. You need to go bigger on the large pulley, or smaller on the little one.
Meanwhile, I thought I had found the right kitchen screen for my #30 screen. But my daughter and I counted the squares, and it actually is #26!!! Whatever am I going to do??? :bigsmyl2:
Vettebob
Changes to the smaller pulley make the biggest difference.
Vettepilot
I'm getting ready for deer season and took my 40-50 out to check zero and do a little practicing with the home made powder and get some velocities since the case capacity is pretty small with the lighter powder. At 100yd the first 2 rounds were touching at 3:00 so I made the adjustments and shot this group, which I was very pleased with but had to move it a little.
To qualify this the load was a duplex load of 35.5gr 3F HM and 4.5gr Reloader 7 with a 325gr FN boolit. I went with a duplex load to avoid having to wipe or blow tube during practice since my time is limited in the evenings before dark, especially after the time change.
I got the following velocities from 10 rounds 5 of those are these shots; 1296, 1305, 1239, 1291, 1294, 1273, 1289, 1295, 1294, & 1301. I'm not sure where that 1239 came from but it felt light on recoil.
I also shot some Old Eynsford duplex and straight and these velocities were almost identical to the OE 2F straight, which I used to take a deer with this rifle last year. Going on the increased velocity of the duplex OE load I would surmise that the straight HM velocity would be in the 1250fps area which should take a deer cleanly. Last year was the first year since 2011 that I used store bought BP to hunt with, but I'm back on track now.
Bob
I agree but .>>>>THIS might do the trick also. At least I can rev it up whenever I need to.
Hmmm... impressive specs and price on that unit. Please let me know how it works and how well it holds up. I might just need a couple of those for various projects.
For anyone else contemplating motor speed reduction, please note that you can't do it with a simple light dimmer switch. They are not meant for inductive loads such as motors.
Vettepilot
Dimmer switch may not work, but Harbor Freight does sell a speed control for use with routers....and I also use it for my Dremel tool.
Still collecting bits, but I am getting close. I've found and cleaned + tested the washing machine motor I had been saving for a project just such as this, and bought the pillow block bearings and large pulley, so things are moving along on the ball mill. I've also got my dutch oven for making the charcoal all set up, along with the turkey fryer with associated plumbing and propane tank all lined out. About all I need now is to collect my press, and to make the collar for the pressing die. (I bought 2.5" aluminum stubs for the bottom and piston already.)
Then I'll be out of "excuses"!!
How are you guys all doing??
Happy Holidays,
Vettepilot
Say guys, (and girls??), a question. Getting closer to constructing my mill, and am in final design stage. The tumbler jar will be the common 6" PVC style, and I am going to glue 4 little 1/4" high "trippers" into the jar 90 degrees apart. (An idea I had been pondering, and picked up a neat little trick to do it on Youtube.) The "trippers", and the media made of 1/2" copper tubing filled with lead as suggested here should make for very efficient milling.
Anyway, my question regards rpms of the mill. My collected pieces would allow for either a milling jar rpm of 51, or 77 rpms. Which one do you recommend?? (I'm thinking 77.)
Thanks!
Vettepilot
I would say 58... faster it turns, the more likely it will be to not tumble well. You want the stuff to free fall inside, not be gyro’ed to the sides.... good luck sir...