What this means is that your machine is not calibrated the same as TylerR.
The simple way to fix it is to reduce the size by 1% in your slicer. But remember to reduce both pieces not just the out side one.
I hope this helps.
Printable View
Setting everything else aside, The inner diameter of that 9mm die is exactly 9.5mm, according to the 3D cad and the STL file. that is .5mm of clearance to allow for variations in the printer as well as the actual bullet diameter (for instance sizing to .357 which would be 9.0678mm) Programming any more tolerance in to the actual design just causes issues the other way for printers that have more accuracy, because then every part would have too much play.
Just realized while going to the settings. I was messing with layers other settings while printing some stuff for my son and forgot to set everything back to normal once done. I'll have to try body again now that I have my default settings. I had doubled the thickness of the outer wall.
Tyler, just to confirm, the DAA spacer is used with the drop tube if you are using DAA feeder dies right?
What are the drop tube bases designed to fit on without the coupler?
Thx man!
I agree, but reducing it by 1% will reduce 9.5mm to 9.405 which should give him just enough room to screw it in and not change much of the other features. If that does not work, I would suggest that he re-caliberates his printer to get a better printed ratio to fit. Start by printing a 30x30 cube and measure all 3 sides to see how close they are to being actually 30mm square.
Here is a great video on calibrating you 3D printer.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rp3r921DBGI
I went thru the same as wrinkles and went back and re calibrated the machine. I also created profiles specific for my bullet feeder parts. I just use those profiles now for everything bullet feeder. Works like a charm. I’m sure everyone knows this but we fiddle a lot with settings etc. once you find one that works well save the profile and use that profile every time you make parts for the bullet feeder.
Is this the extra large spring?
https://www.doublealpha.biz/ca/doubl...ute-and-spring
How much larger is it than the large here?
https://www.doublealpha.biz/ca/mrbul...ension-adaptor
TylerR, sanity check here. Have you had any issues with the plates binding or not turning well with a looser shaft size? I wonder primarily since I've printed a ton out now and really dig the loose not digging to to get them out like the AM ones. But made me wonder since you likely have testing 496 different plates :P
// SHAFT OPTIONS (STANDARD)
shaft_hole=10.1; //shaft hole
shaft_slot_length=29;
shaft_slot_width=5.0;
Also the best part, printing your 300bo plate again. Calibrated the cr10 with a 20mm cube and the plate ended up coming out a touch too large in diameter (maybe 0.5.. enough to bind with just turning it in there by hand) so printing it on my well tuned ender3. I hope to not end up with a plate graveyard like you have :P
Does the Drop_Hole_Adapter attach to the Spring_Adapter_Large?
The drop hole adapter seems pretty long to attach to the other part.
Yes, if there is too much slop on the shaft/pin connection if could cause excessive movement in the plate when rotating. The stock settings work well for the 8mm motor shaft and pin. If you want to tighten up the tolerance just make the changes and generate the plate.
Thanks Tyler!
I just calibrated my printer because I was having fitting issues. I use a direct drive extruder and the chassis was loose. I also set my E-steps for all motors and I am getting stuff accurate down to the hundredth of a mm.
Words can't convey my gratitude for all your hard work man.
DesignSpark! There IS a way to modify STL files, afterall.
I decided to spend the last few days trying to learn it. I can tell you only that I still have a little hair left after the hairpulling temper tantrums. That cad program goes against everything I ever learned about cad, and I've been using Autocad professionally for 40 plus years.......perhaps THAT may have been my biggest problem....."engrainment"? I find it really hard to use, but really powerful, if you can figure out it's vast maze. Forget using more than 3 or four keys on the keyboard, it's "mouse" software.....mostly.
To test modifing a STL file I decided to tweak my small A.M. Nose Down .45 plate which does everything different from other nose down bullet plates....requiring a baffle over it rather than DAA patented ramp. But I thought a "tweak" that added a plastic version of my train derailing rod, and a TylerR style handle over the hex center would be easy. HAHAHAHAHA! Says the now slightly mad cad pro. But anyway, finally did it. here's a screenshot of the modified plate. As a last final touch, I was going to add another vertical 180 degrees from the other, just to see if I could.....Hell no! Would have taken me 5 minutes in autocad.....but Autocad doesn't touch STL files....and once DesignSpark changes it back to a solid, it's not a bit compatible with Autocad's dxf or dwg files.
Attachment 271453
I'd still have my brains intact if I had just done this on my original dwg file, and it would have taken at most 15 minutes, but the purpose was to try modifying a STL for which a dwg file isn't available. It can be done.
Glad to hear you had some success! I have to say, I wonder if the reason you find it so challenging as a 3D cad expert is the same reason why I find it so easy as a beginner. Having everything mouse and menu based allowed me to pick it up much better than a lot of the other free programs I tried. And it is pretty powerful. I still have not found anything that I wanted to do that I wasn't able to.
I am still struggling with working a good solution for these 230gn cast 300BO boolits. I originally tried just replicating what I see in these other videos, but kept running in to other issues. Especially since whatever I come up with needs to work either nose up or down, since I want to use it for sizing. I am getting close though.