It was shooting high because you are too close to the target. For the rest of the world, 7, 10, even 15 yds is not the pistol accuracy standard...
Printable View
It was shooting high because you are too close to the target. For the rest of the world, 7, 10, even 15 yds is not the pistol accuracy standard...
I'm more inclined toward fixed sights on my service/defensive sideiron & holsterplastik. Anything adjustable can get OUT OF adjustment, after all. Anyone my age that dealt with carburetors on their main ride knows that maxim right to his core.
i would be more inclined to say it was shooting high because of the load.. different bullet weights and speeds are always going to change point of impact.. in hand guns and even some rifles.(i.e. 45-70 carbines)
i have fixed sight issues with glocks; revolvers and single shot rifles by load development.
if it's shooting high go faster or with a lighter bullet. if it's low slow it down or get a heaver bullet.
( stay within your load data of course.)
take your time try more loads or store-bought ammo. 9 times out of 10 you'll find just what the gun likes. or you'll learn how it likes to be shot in the process.
^^ That is also true and I have also worked load development to hit to where the sights are.
A gentleman here on the forum sent me some Lee 356-120-TC boolits to try in my new Model 19. I took them to my son's house and loaded them with 4.4 gr. of Herco, using my son's 4 die Lee set. Sunday I was off to the indoor range. I fired all 51 loads from my Glock and didn't take any pictures, but I was getting the same accuracy that I was getting with the 115 grain store bought jacketed bullets that I was shooting. When I took the pistol apart to clean it there was no --none--zero leading in the barrel, and the cases were all intact, no bulges, blowouts or and malfunctions whatsoever. I gotta get that mold........and most probably the counterpart in .45 cal....[smilie=w:
For some reason I haven't been able to access Cast Boolits for a couple of days, it seems to be resolved now. Anyhow my 19 is now shooting dead on with the factory barrel using both j-words and boolits. I installed the 6.1 fixed rear sight and trimmed the notch down a bit until it was dead on. The Storm Lake barrel still makes tighter groups than the Glock barrel but both of them shoot more than well enough for my miserable abilities. I'm currently using Green Dot and its working really well. Minimal fouling and great accuracy with both types of slugs. I'm now squirming to get my 26 out of layaway!
Oh I know the feeling.
My load books are in the storage unit, and My son's books didn't have a listing for any of the Dot powders. I know my Lyman cast bullet manual most probably does.
Looks like I am not the only person whose late model Glock shoots high. The owner of the local fun store bought himself a new 34. With factory 115 and 124 FMJ, the pistol was making very neat groups at 24 yards, however 3-4" high with the adjustable sight turned all the way down. His wife and son fired it with the same results. The pistol is on its way back to Glock now.
The Lee Truncated Cone autopistol mould designs are the shiznit, for certain. I use the variants with conventional lube grooves, and have the 9mm--40 S&W--and 45 ACP models. They run like water through all of my pistols, and shoot VERY well. I seat them with .020" of front drive bamd protruding from the case mouth--set a light taper crimp--and fire away.
Yep! Good stuff.
Anybody use the extra power trigger spring in their Glock? I ordered some Wolff springs for my Kel-Tecs and ordered one of these also.
Today I tried my standard 9mm defensive load in the factory barrel. 3.7 grains of Bullseye, Lee 356-120-TC sized to .357, Federal primer, 1.055 OAL. While other boolit loads have been kind of so-so in the factory barrel this one is a real performer. Neat groups roughly point of aim at 10 yards and perfect function. I ran them through my chronograph and was pleasantly surprised.
Low: 1016
High: 1040
Average: 1026
Extreme Spread: 23.59
Standard Deviation: 7.74
Energy: 285.13 foot-pounds
Upon cleaning I found very modest fouling and no signs of leading. The 356-120-TC at 950-1000 fps has always been my go to 9mm load for every purpose in a variety of pistols and I'm pleased that the factory barrel seems to like it. The Glock barrel provides an increase in velocity too. The average for this load in the Storm Lake barrel is 999.3. Next up I'm going to try Green Dot.
I like that load too, it's a good shooter. That's also one of the few loads I didn't bother sizing (back when I used bullet lube); my 120TC drops at .360", which worked great in my Glock chamber, so I just tumble lubed and shot them.
I've modified my 120TC mold though, to make it a 105gr HP, and like it even better now. It still works fine for mild loads, or can be pushed a bit over 1400 fps from my G19 with +P loads, and still has less muzzle rise than standard 124gr factory loads.
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c2...s/IMG_2772.jpg
Wow, looking good!! I find that both my Storm Lake barrel and Glock barrel like the boolits sized to .357. Better accuracy and less fouling, not that it's really an issue shooting them as cast. My mold drops them right at .358 and I find that they seat more easily with a consistent OAL at .357 so tht what I stick with. 3.6 grains Green Dot with a magnum primer pretty much duplicates the above load but with a wider velocity spread and helps me save my dwindling supply of Bullseye.
The speed sights from Flatline Ops are the bomb. I haven't shot with them yet (will next weekend), but just doing dry fire drills I can say that their advertising media is correct in helping with fast sight alignment/picture. Just awesome so far.
More to come.
Local Dunn's is getting WW AutoComp in regularly. I switched to that to save my last pound of BE. Burns cleaner.
Jerry
Bailed out the Glock 26 today. Hopefully I can do a range report this weekend!
I had the chance to put a few rounds through the 26 after work. I was shooting some mild reloads at 15 feet or so. So far it looks encouraging. Function was 100% and the pistol is shooting pretty close to point of aim, maybe an inch high. I haven't messed with the sights at all, I suspect that with my pet load it will be dead on with the notch of the rear sight trimmed down a bit. I'm going to put a few hundred rounds of different types through to figure out what it likes. One thing that surprised me is how the trigger pull is actually pretty good out of the box. It has a smooth take up and then a nice, sharp break at maybe 6 pounds, just right for a defensive gun I think.
I carried the 26 some in an Uncle Mike's paddle holster walking around. It carries pretty easy, doesn't feel like any more of a burden or harder to conceal than the PF9 it replaced. IWB will probably be a little more difficult given the increased thickness, we shall see I guess. My lone complaint is the sharp edge of the trigger guard rubbing against my middle finger, which generates alot of complaints from other shooters as well. Not going to get out the sandpaper and dremel just yet, I'd like to enjoy the new gun smell for a little while longer!!
Shoot it and build up a callous.
I ordered my molds for the Glocks, the Lee 356-120 TC 6 cavity and the same design in 2 cavity 230 gr. for the .45
This will be my first 6 cavity mold. I hope I don't break it.
Good choices!
Over the course of the weekend I was able to put around 80 rounds of boolits through the 26. It looks promising so far. Accuracy is pretty good, hopefully will get better as I get used to the pistol and it gets broken in. Unlike my Glock 19, the elevation on this pistol seems to be dead on. I did bump the rear sight to the right some to correct my usual habit of pulling shots to the left. I have been using the grip and trigger pull techniques in this thread, which seems to be helping me:
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...0-Glock-finger
Today I ordered a Ghost 3.5 connector and 6 pound trigger for my 19. This pistol is used on the range and stands ready for home protection. Do you guys think I should install both parts, or just the connector first and then try it? Sorry if this is a dumb question, I want to improve the trigger pull but keep it reliable and safe. I know I'm not going to do that and get a one pound pull or anything. I use only OEM striker springs, I won't chance a light strike for a defensive gun.
Ferguson,
Although I do believe that there is such a thing as a dumb question, I don't think that qualifies.
I have been running Glocks since my first 19 in '89 or '90 so I've tried a lot of goodies. After market parts have come a long ways since those days I can tell you. Nonetheless I avoid after market internals in my Glocks. All of 'em. When Gaston got done with his pistol design he liked it as a defensive weapon. Of course there've been changes since then but only small tweaks. It isn't "Perfection" but it is an excellent design for what it is. Hard to improve on much in my book.
What I do for the best trigger is the famous 25 cent trigger job (it really works) and then lots of trigger time. Casting helps with the cost of that!
Good luck with whatever you do.
Cat
Thanks, I will certainly think about that. The 19 had a gritty, stagey trigger pull when I got it. the .25 cent trigger job and some rounds down range really helped it. You say you have tried many aftermarket parts. Did you give up on them because of failures, or just conclude that OEM is as good as it gets in most respects? My Glock 26 which is going to be carried will get nothing but OEM parts.
I had trouble with aftermarket parts mostly in fitting where they were supposed to go. Remember though, this was in the nineties and I sure that the quality makers have come a long ways since then.
Cat
I just managed to read all 22 pages of this thread watching the Bronco's game this afternoon. Have decided to try the stock barrel in my 35 with cast boolits before trying the Lone Wolf barrel. Alloy will be Lyman #2 and the mold is a Lyman 401638. Will try sizing them at .401.
Might be about 2 months before I can report back on the results as other projects are pending but I do have one question, what is the .$25 cent trigger job?
GlockTalk has Valuable Info forum (or some such name). In it there is a thread with a link to a video of someone doing a 25 cent job. Or you can just google it. Basically it's polishing the trigger mating surfaces to smooth the trigger pull. Works a treat, I do it to all my Glocks.
Cat
I find that my two Glocks, a 19 and 26, shoot cast boolits very well in the factory barrel as long as the velocity is modest, say 950fps. Above that, accuracy begins to deteriorate and fouling increases. I suspect that the higher pressure, fast twist, and rounded profile rifling are causing the boolits to become less stable at higher velocities. If I'm not mistaken Glock OEM barrels have a left hand twist rifling. As the velocity increases, so do the errors of shooting to the left. I also notice that the barrel accumulates fouling with a "plated" appearance, as if the boolit is getting wiped across the bore. Please note this isn't leading but your standard boolit lube/powder fouling.
I'm thinking that as the velocity increases the boolits begin to wobble in the direction of the rifling rather than spin on their axis. In my mind this would certainly account for groups drifting over to the left for no apparent reason than a slightly higher powder charge. In both pistols I can switch to the Storm Lake Glock 19 barrel with the exact same load and the problem vanishes. So, it looks like I am now in the market for a Storm Lake barrel for the 26.
Sounds like you need to discover powder coated bullets! 1400 fps is no problem in a stock Glock barrel, with ACWW soft enough to expand a reasonable hollow point, if that bullet is powder coated. It really does change the whole cast bullet game, and makes a lot of things easy that were once very difficult or impossible.
Yeah, I'm going to have to look at powder coating. It sounds pretty effective.
Folks, do you think Glock OEM barrels need a break in? Given how smooth and shiny they are I wouldn't think so but I have read it both ways. I haven't really figured out what bullet weight my 26 likes yet. I wonder if that will become apparent as I put more rounds through it. I will say that this pistol really likes reloads.
No on the break in.
I read a long article by Lynn McMillan once (the barrel maker) where he said that barrel break in was a waste of time. A match barrel was already "broken in" and a regular factory barrel that needed work would need more than a break in would do.
Cat
Hi guys. I have skimmed over the last 22 pages. So if I missed the post I am sorry but I have to ask. Is anyone shooting a 45 Gap with cast bullets? I shoot my G37 better then my 1911 so I was thinking of down sizing. Giving up 45 acp if I could shoot cast in my 45GAP. If I can then I would like to pick up another cal like 9 or 40. We are in the myths of starting to build a house and there will be no gun buying for a while. She never said anything about gun swapping lol.
If you are shooting a GAP with leads heads then please let me know what mold you are using and powder and so on. Right now I shoot my 45 acp with cast 200gr round flat from a lee six banger mold. Thanks
Outer,
I shoot my own boolits in my G37 & 39. I use a NOE 45 BD mould. It runs 205 grains. I have to water drop mine or I get leading. I use Universal Clays but any powder that you'd use in the 45 ACP would work in the GAP.
I bought a Glock 22 upper off of GunBroker and it fits and functions perfectly on the 37. And just go completely nuts I bought a 9mm conversion barrel for the 22 upper and it works perfectly also. Boolits in all calibers, of course.
Welcome to the forum.
Cat
The Glock 19 is shooting just awesome. With the Storm lake barrel, Ghost 3.5 connector, and my boolit loads I can actually make cloverleafs right where I want 'em as long as I do my part. That is the first time in my whole shooting life I have been able to do that with an autoloading pistol. Previously I could only do it with a revolver in single action mode.
I'm still trying to get the 26 lined out. I've concluded that the trigger pull, as is from the factory, is just not going to work with my very modest shooting skills. Done the 25 cent trigger job with little change, it is still heavy and has alot of overtravel. Typical results at ten yards are a vertical line of shots about four inches long, two to three inches left of bull. That is using the exact same technique as with the 19. I do not have the time or money to send the thousands of rounds downrange that it will take for me to get any kind of acceptable performance out of the pistol in stock form, therefore I am going to do the same mods that straightened out the 19.
I don't have the cash for an SL barrel just yet but did order the Ghost 3.5 connector, USPS shows it should be delivered this afternoon. Hopefully that will at least get me to a somewhat predictable and centered group on target. That's what the connector did for the 19, the SL barrel shrank the groups like an ice cube in the sun. Hopefully can make a range report today or tomorrow.
The Glock is truly an excellent weapon. It isn't "Perfection" of course but he really did hit it out of the park.
Cat
For me the biggest attraction is the easy availability of parts and plethora of aftermarket stuff. You can pretty much build the pistol to your own specifications. For me that's pretty simple: OEM adjustable rear sight, Storm Lake barrel, and Ghost connector. I tried the 26 with boolits some more today and the results were better. I find this pistol is very sensitive to how you grip it, even more than the 19.
I love me some Glocks. Only mods I make are to add night sights. I now have over 3,000 rds through my Gen4 Glock 21 and haven't had a single malfunction of nay kind. 95% of those rds have been reloads of varying powder charges for load development and experimenting and bullet/boolit weights from 200 gr-250 gr.
I think the simple, cheap OEM adjustable rear sight is just awesome. Both my pistols wear it and I find it gives a better sight picture than the supplied fixed sight.
I fired my Glock 19 with boolits some more today. This pistol just keeps getting better. Accuracy was not so good due to frozen fingers but I got a couple of nice groups. I notice the trigger pull keeps getting better. The Ghost connectors helps but it seems putting rounds down range helps more than anything. When the 19 was new, the trigger would move back easily about 3/16 then stop. Pulling some more would give a really hard break and lots of overtravel. Adding the Ghost 3.5 connector made the break a little less harsh. Putting a few hundred rounds through it after ward has got the trigger to where now it will creep some after the break point and you can stage the shot like its a single action with alot of travel or a light double action. I'm looking forward to the 26 getting to this point, its break is still pretty harsh.