Huge tip there 257! thank you! I remember using them as a vendor when I worked in MFRing years ago, and had forgotten all about them.
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Huge tip there 257! thank you! I remember using them as a vendor when I worked in MFRing years ago, and had forgotten all about them.
Here's what I did for fun yesterday...
A dear friend of mine gave me this awesome screw geared block hoist, and I believe it's a safe hoist as you'll notice the name "Yale". Also stamped Alemada County, Ca. Maybe came from Alcatraz Island.. :mrgreen: You know it's got to be old and it turns as smooth as a Swiss watch. 4000 lbs.
Truly, a work of fine American art. Like to see the chicoms try to craft that.
http://www.patmarlins.com/1yale.jpg
Have to use a hoist to hoist the hoist:
http://www.patmarlins.com/2yale.jpg
Needed to put my Supermax YCM-40 CNC mill in it's resting place, inside the shop extension I'm framing. CNC computer control is out of the cabinet and resting in a box indoors, and I'm relocating the elect panel that was mounted on the rear to the side so I can get the machine closer to the wall. This beast takes up a heck of a lot of room with a long X travel. Bout' 9 feet.
http://www.patmarlins.com/1dollymax.jpg
Only problem is the mill is over 2800 lbs and setting on 4 Harbor Freight dollies. You would be amazed what I've done with these $9.95 wood dollies.
http://www.patmarlins.com/2dollymax.jpg
So I have to push the mill in the general location with my CAT skid steer then hoist it up with Mr. Yale.
http://www.patmarlins.com/4dollymax.jpg
http://www.patmarlins.com/5dollymax.jpg
Looks like my framing meets the 100lb snow load requirement... :mrgreen:
http://www.patmarlins.com/6dollymax.jpg
http://www.patmarlins.com/7dollymax.jpg
:kidding:
Knuck, knuck. Your avatar freaks me out,. Who is that? ...:mrgreen:
Today...
http://www.patmarlins.com/3shopmax.jpg
http://www.patmarlins.com/2shopmax.jpg
36" door's going in there.
That's W... and the words carved to the right are "Miss Me?" I put it up fr halloweeen, and have been too lazy to change it.
Oh I can see it now. Compared to Obama, I miss him. Compared to Ronald Reagan, not really.
I was going to do an Elmer Keith pumpkin avatar, but I don't think most folks would have gotten the joke...
Rocky says it looks more like a Pimp's hat from his point of view...
http://www.patmarlins.com/rocky1.jpg
That works if your gear is a standard one from their catalog, or just needs to have a different bore put in it. Unfortunately for people with old Hendy lathes, The pressure angle that was used back then is not so widely available now & the sizes of gears needed in that odd variety are like hen's teeth. Custom gears can be hobbed to fit, but custom gear shops ain't cheap.
Boston, Martin & Browning are the three places that I look for standard gears. If they don't have what I need, then I dig in for an up hill battle.
Pat,
You scare me a little, hoisting off of wooden beams like that. There have been cases of people pulling buildings down on top of themselves when trying that trick. I guess that your shop must be built pretty solid if you got away with it.
Jim is absolutely right about bringing the roof down from lifting using rafters that are in the middle of a long unsupported span. Need to remember about doing that!
Roofing beams can be used safely if you take some precautions first by propping them up with sturdy uprights so it is actually the uprights that take all the guff of lifting. I used to pull the engines out of my cars using the roof joists in my old garage by putting two 4x4 posts on each side of the car and getting them up tight under the roof joists by pounding wood shingle shims under the 4x4s. Then I'd run another 4x4 across the tops of the supported joists and they'd take the weight no problem.
The places in the photos where the lifting is being done look like they have upright supports under the horizontal beams from the load bearing walls, so it would take a lot more than his mill to bring the roof down where the lifting is taking place pretty close to an outside or inside load-bearing wall. Might be a different story in the winter with several tons of snow on the roof, though!
rl904
Definitely do not try that at home boys and girls. It was a calculated risk.
I fell the trees, milled the beams, and built the building so I have an idea of what it will take where.
That is all heavy full saw dimension, (not planed down) No 1 grade Douglas Fir- 6x6's, 2x12's, 6x12's, and 6x10's and 2x6's. Yes my chain runs over the 2x6 rafter ties, but on top of that is 5/4 (1 1/4") planks with 2x6's on top of that spreading the load across the whole wall on that side.
It didn't even grunt.
Even with that did I stand and look up from underneath while pulling chain? Or course not. Even I'm not that deaf... :mrgreen: If it came down it came down, and I would have to rebuild it.
I wonder how many guys here have their own sawmills? Seven years ago I bought a Hud-Son bandsaw mill that'll do trees up 32 inches in diameter. I just love ripping a 30-inch diameter tree into slabs and then those into full dimension 2x6s and 2x4s, hearing that Twin cylinder Briggs WORK making sawdust so fast I need a broom and shovel to clear it off the tracks. Lots of use for good inexpensive lumber like that!
rl905
Linstrum, there are a few sawyers here at Cast Boolits.
I started 11 years ago with a chainsaw mill and was hooked, but quickly learned I had the wrong mill for all the lumber I was going to need so I invested in a used Woodmizer LT-40 HD hydraulic mill, then upgraded and rebuilt it. It's paid for itself a few times over by now I imagine.
Fun stuff.
If only you sawyers lived closer to me. I had to cut a right of way in a bottom this year for a power line. 200yds long and 30ft wide. Took out several pines 20"bhd and several oaks 18bhd. no limbs/knots. Tried to get a logger that was working the area to cut and haul them off, but he said unless he could get several loads, it did not pay for him to move his equip, even if I gave him the trees.