:bigsmyl2:
Gear
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:bigsmyl2:
Gear
gear today just got a star sizer put in the SL-68-2 and worked fine NO leading even in slightly small .4515 boolits that had leaded before.
While I'm not sure it this thread is the correct place to continue the discussion of my mod 70??? ...I will do so anyway, in hopes of the end result being shooting/testing SL68 and/or SL68B on boolits in this gun.
Ref: posts starting at #178 and especially #187
I pulled this Win mod 70 (Pre-64 with problem stock) out of the safe yesterday, as I decided to have it looked at by an expert. On a trip to the LGS, I asked about local experts in bedding rifle stocks, as I wasn't aware of any. I was hoping an expert could tell by just looking at it, if anything could be done and have it look as if nothing was done...and how much it'd cost.
The names of experts that the LGS had to offer, didn't excite me, as I've had issues with those gunsmiths. I've only had work done on pistols by those mentioned, some good, some "not so much". Anyway, the easy answer was right in front of me all the time, I'm surprised I over looked it. But another stock !
So, after looking on all the usual large suppliers and figuring out, nearly everything "off the shelf" was for the post-64 mod 70 and custom work (like McMillan) was beyond the price I was willing to pay. So I went to Gunbroker...Whooly smoke, there were a few, and were in the $500 to $800 price range :shock:.
Then I looked toward fleabay. There was a number of choices, but if you know me, you know I'm a sucker for figured light maple for a blued metal gun. So, I bought the one linked to below. I hope this pretty much fit's and doesn't need much work ...as I am a bit ham-fisted when it comes to wood.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rare-Rich-Ma...p2047675.l2557
More to come, when this stock arrives.
Jon
Other than the cheek rest being on the wrong side that thing is gorgeous! A little strategic, stress-free epoxy bedding and you're good to go.
Gear
Nice solution to that "collector" problem.
Hey, do we have any further updates on the cold-weather testing?
Like more/different calibers/velocities and test bed guns?
I am hoping that this leads to at least one "winner" lube in the Extreme thread...
Too warm here lately Grump.... Only down to 15° on so in the morning. The bitter cold is east of us for the moment. Need below zero to really learn anything on the 'cold side' especially with several good lubes to finalize.
I want at least -15° below zero if not lower. I have a couple of NO BEESWAX formulas that shoot pretty good at 20°.... But that's tee shirt weather for any good lube!
Eutectic
From my recent experiences, THIS RIGHT HERE:goodpost: is a major attribute I'm now looking for in my lube. Thus far, I have made Ben's Red and only Ben's Red. My father and I have found it to be a wonderful lube in rifles, and it's great inside any BARREL, but in the relatively "open" systems of revolvers and autoloading pistols, the greasy/sooty tends to flow to places other than forward and out the muzzle. As an armorer by trade, I don't let stuff gunk up even close to the point of weapon failure, but it's plain for anyone to see that this point is not as far from the starting line as with a greaseless system. Lube that acts like jacketed would be a definite asset outside the realm of closed breeches.
Bigslug, beeswax and lithium-based greases tend to grease up a gun quite a bit. One of the things I didn't like about any of the lithi-bee lubes or even Felix lube, really, though it isn't nearly as bad, is needing to disassemble magazines and do deep teardown/cleanup on revolvers and automatics. I don't like taking the side plate or grip frame off a revolver any more often than absolutely necessary, much less strip the frame on a 1911. The dry, microwax/paraffin oil/sodium soap lubes definitely have the advantage there. Revolver chambers also stay much cleaner and don't get all slimy with lube/powder residue.
Gear
Bigslug,
The post of mine that you quoted isn't the entire story. Those Boolits were a New HBWC mold I got from NOE, it has 3 small lube grooves. I only put lube in the bottom two grooves.
Not tested thoroughly yet, are some SWC boolits cast from a Lee GB 358429 (175gr), which has a very large single square lube groove. I lubed some of these with SL68 or SL68B (I don't recall which at this moment) and loaded them for 38 spl. I did test fire 6 rounds to confirm the load, but I did shoot some other stuff in that gun as well. I did notice a bit of grease on the cylinder, sadly I didn't pay attention to which loads caused it. But in all honesty, with a large lube groove, I suspect SL-68 will leave some greasey soot on the outside of a revolver. ANYWAY, on my next trip to the range, I'll be testing a box full of those 358429 large square lube grooved boolits with this lube in my Mod 14. I will report about it.
Jon
Gear is right, this lube "style" is far less messy than many other lubes. Felix and others leave much more grunge in the action.
I have a modification of this lube I plan to try soon, if the weather cooperates.
Good intel. The LBT 230 LFN mold I've been using in my 1911's has a single narrow lube groove, reflecting the logic that you don't need a lot of goo to lube a 5" barrel in a low pressure system. Even so, the goo does get around. Here is a photo of the frame ramp after a couple hundred rounds with Ben's Red+5% extra beeswax and Titegroup (if you click on it, it'll be big enough to clearly see):
Attachment 131681
There was also a sizable wall of greasy soot on the top of the breechface, pushed there by subsequent rounds sliding into battery. The brass is fairly slimy on hitting the ground as well, feeling like it was just sprayed with Dillon or RCBS liquid case lube.
I'm thinking that if The Quest discovers the Perfect Lube, it may well launch another quest for the Perfect Bullet for that Perfect Lube (no doubt already discussed in post 9,238,427 of that thread:veryconfu) . The government contract bullets for the .45-70, as well as the Keiths all have big grooves for a lot of lube - - but much of that has to be due to not only the limitations of the media available at the time, but also the lack of understanding of lube properties. I suspect there was quite a bit of "if a little is good, then more must be better" going on. Ultimately, a better grasp of the lube problem is going to affect projectile design. Some slide rule maniac will be working out milliliters of lube required per square centimeter of bore surface per PSI of load pressure. . .and the guy that figures out how much to add for varying degrees of frosted bore will be crowned the true master!
In all seriousness, I would guess the Lovering types would be the ideal test bed for this side of the problem - leave grooves empty or full to learn where the problems begin and end.
I don't wish to hijack the thread, but for pistol lubes in the .45 acp,38 spl and .357 mags the hard lubes such as CR,Magma etc work just fine in pistol cartridges. No leading, excellent accuracy and no sticky gunked up guns. I realize this is anathema to some but I went away from soft lubes in handguns years ago for this very reason. Now back to the regular scheduled program.
So, where is the regularly scheduled program these days? Wondering if anybody has been able to get out in between all these storms that we've had lately. Update?
I got out to the range today...Twice :)
Submitted for your pleasure, the 175gr. Large lube groove boolits
http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/u...psneyo37jt.jpg
The "CLEAN" mod 14 and the loaded ammo (boolits lubed with SL-68B), the load was a MAX charge of AL-7 (book said 879 fps).
http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/u...ps3bqxj3w7.jpg
The targets with 50 new holes in them, not the greatest, but pretty good for me for 25 yds off hand. (Pink target paper is 8.5x11)
http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/u...psrtysu4xi.jpg
The Mod 14 after 50 shots fired, I was carefully to not handle the dirty areas, as to not wipe anything off. Of course, I had to open the cylinder with my left index finger, but the rest of my hands were clean. The cases sure were clean.
http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/u...ps9wbqz0nu.jpg
Some Lube on the spent case mouths. I had one split case mouth with this supposed 1x mil surp brass.
http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/u...psgvs7medm.jpg
I wiped the dry burnt powder residue off all the outside surfaces of the cylinder and frame. Again from 50 rds fired. It was about the same as the 359 WC with the small lube grooves with this same lube. While I was wiping this off, it reminded me of the spray on "Sight Black", that some pistol shooters in my league, would spray on there sights to reduce the glare.
http://i640.photobucket.com/albums/u...pslrg97qhg.jpg
The Bore cleaned up easy, but there was a bit of lead fouling near the begining of the rifling. Hot loads with soft alloy maybe ? I haven't shot this gun enough to know if it has some quirks.
Next time do exactly the same thing but with BAC, Felix lube, Ben's Red, TAC #1, or any flavor of lithi-bee and see if the leading returns, how she groups, and how greased-up the revolver and brass gets. Just an excuse to go shooting more, right? (BTW I've done this with a variety of lubes, very interesting how they differ).
Gear
I've sold that mold...But I'm sure I have another 358 mold with a "roomy" lube groove. I would like to learn this particular revolver.
Al-7? Where did you get that? I have some left from the 1970s.
Trying to do the lazy vulture circle, but my patience is lacking.
Progress? I'm afraid that most places have had either their last snow, or their last really cold snaps.
Are we ready to declare this mix a cold-weather success and move on to the hot-weather testing?
Inquiring minds want to know.