I may have to say f it and try this. Even if I don't shoot them wold still look neat lol. I have so cool colors in stock so why not. If i do it I will post pics up for u guys
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I may have to say f it and try this. Even if I don't shoot them wold still look neat lol. I have so cool colors in stock so why not. If i do it I will post pics up for u guys
Speaking of KOOL colors. How about glow in the dark?
Years ago I bought MANY colors of powder to coat fishing lures for my son. Most have never been touched. I found out he likes to say I have bit never enjoys using anything. Just possession made him happy. Now dad will have fun. :bigsmyl2:
Has anyone tried powder coating solid bullets without the lube grooves, by having the mold re-machined to remove the grooves or are the grooves needed when powder coated?
Well guys I reloaded my first few boolits and suprise suprise they were powder coated. They are 240 grain swc's over 10 grains of unique. Dont know accuracy or speed yet but they sure do look pretty!
http://i.imgur.com/5GS4E.jpg
they look good! keep us posted on how they shoot. ive got everything to start making PC bullets, just waiting to finish my new reloading room.
Bullets shot great! Haven't got to do a bench rest group but loose rest groups were good. I cleaned the bore before I did any shooting so i could close monitor leading. When i got done shooting 15 or so rounds the bore is actually cleaner than it was before i started. No leading or fouling at all. These are ww lead with 10 grains of unique behind a 240 grain swc sized to .429.
http://i.imgur.com/BpBKr.jpg
Which color worked best?:kidding:
*Very late response but maybe still useful to someone*
Clay. Get a little marble sized piece of clay , plop it on the tray, stick bullet point in. This will hold your bullet in place, and ceramic does just fine in an oven. You folks looking for a way to make it so the tip is not covered, for hunting, might also find this an attractive idea. For the whole bullet just flip it over and coat the tip.
Internet points....How do those convert? 1 Trillion= about 1/10th of a cent right? :-p
"pointy end of a nail" .... so would would hp's have the edge on this process ?
Just a thought.
Take some bread dough roll it flat and cover it with foil. put boolits to preferred depth in the foil connect lead and spray.
Now place in oven and cook till done.
Remove from oven pick up your colored boolits. save the charcoal (bread burned to a T) FOR FLUXING
a REAL RE CYCLE project.:smile:
Any try this method yet, 1/16 welding wire, plan to PC in a masking shroud to keep over spray off wire
Here is the base of a hollow point coated.
http://i.imgur.com/4Do8E.jpg
Here is the nose
http://i.imgur.com/rAkH6.jpg
Finally got a chance to do some more experimenting with PCPb boolits thru the Glock 17 yesterday. Upthread I had reported that my 125 grain Lee tumble lubers were keyholing badly sized to .357 and charged with 4.4 grains of HP38.
I loaded up a couple batches of powdercoated but unsized 125gr TL 9mm's with 3.8 and 4.0 grains and had good success with both. No keyholes, low smoke, and a nice clean bore. Accuracy seemed ok but, as I'm still trying to make friends with the Glock, I need to work with that a bit more. I'll need to get a chrony set up to check speed at some point as well.
Mechanic,
My method for holding a tray of boolits for 100% coating is kind of like your picture - basically welded wire mesh snipped and bent to create prongs that grab the boolit nose and hold them base up. The problem has become, over several batches, the wire getting coated to the point it no longer conducts electricity to the boolits. As much of a pain as it was to fabricate the jig, I'm not sure I want to have to keep making them all the time just to get 100% powder coverage. Besides, transporting 100 boolits back and forth to the oven without one or seven falling over is a real challenge.
I think the next try may just be a 1/4" slab of MDF drilled to accept the boolit noses and only leave the grooves exposed for coating. A sheet of aluminum foil below the MDF will contact the tip of the noses for conductivity. Hopefully after the hot MDF takes a coat or two of powder it'll stop taking much more and I can gently blow off a lot of the overspray on the MDF before baking. After that I may just sand the top of the jig to keep the buildup to a minimum.
Single strand of a fine copper wire soldered to the base of the boolit wire dia. .005 in. A little time consuming, next casting session going to try a wire in the mold out the nose of the boolit, will have to scribe a fine line in the mold to keep it from ovaling the cavity. As wwboolitmaker has shown hollow points are by design less problematic, I think my 45acp is going on a hollow point diet!!! Maybe the subsonics on the 300 Blackout also.
exyankeeworkshop, have you tried a release agent on the wire to keep the PC from adhering, was wondering if it would help or if it would migrate under the powder during heating and cause adhesion problems on the boolit.