I'm in the middle of making my PID too - resorted to using cuticle sissors to remove the insulation from the thermostat wire. Crude, but it worked.
Printable View
Can a J thermocouple be used? or it has to be K? I am starting with mi project.
Hello, I just completed this project tonight. I used Cranium's parts list and the schematics that are posted here. I plugged it in and it works!!! If your on the fence about building this project, go for it. I'm no scientist and I had success. I'll be using it with my Lyman Mag 20. Thank You to all that contributed to this thread.
hasn't happened without some pics! ;)
Anyone have any feedback on how you secured the PID in the case? Did you modify the supplied clip?
Anyone have any feedback on how you secured the PID in the case? Did you modify the supplied clip?
I wanted to turn my PID 90 deg. so that the "feet" of the case would be down. The supplied clip locks into groves in the PID. When I rotated it, there where no groves for it to clip into so I super glued a cardboard tab on each side and when I slid the clip on, it clicked and locked with the cardboard tabs holding it. I wish I had taken pics of it but I have it buttoned up now with the screws locktited in place. That is my gripe with the box from Auber. Where the screws are drilled and tapped is not very good. Mine could have fallen out with out some lock tite to hold them. Other then that it's a very nice box and works great for this project.
thanks alot cranium, i made one of these a few months ago and it works great... just now getting around to thanking you !! ..my hats off to you job well done... bill
OK, I've read thru this thread and others, did a search and didn't find an answer to my question/situation, so with that in mind...
I want to put a plug receptacle in the work box to plug the pot into. How do I wire the receptacle for power? I'm using the wiring diagram in fig. 8 of the instructions, minus the alarm. This diagram only shows one wire going to the 'heater' when I would think it should be two. Or am I using the wrong wiring diagram?
Right now I have power to the PID and it is registering the K type TC so I'm good there but I don't have power to the receptacle. What am I doing wrong???
WRNK-191 (K type TC)
SYL-2352 (PID controller)
RS1A40D25 (25A SSR)
HS25 (heat sink)
terminals 7&8 on the PID go the the SSR. 7 is + and 8 is -
That go to the control side of the ssr which is typically terminals 3 & 4.
then on the SSR you will see LINE and LOAD.
Line is hooked to the hot side of the AC input (black wire if 120)
the Load is run to your receptacle. You then run a neutral wire (white wire) to the other side of the receptacle from your input power.
Look at figure 5.3 (120v) or 5.4 (240)
http://auberins.com/images/Manual/Ma...sion%203.4.pdf
Referencing 5.3, or fig. 8
The only thing I'm missing, yeah right, is a wire from #10 to the other side of the 'heater' which in my case would be the receptacle. Everything else is wired as per the diagram. I just couldn't 'visualize' how that wire would be connected to the other side of the 'heater'.
Guess it's time to go out in the cold and wet and pay a visit to the 'shop'. THANKS bunches, this has really been bugging me.
DavZee,
I turned my PID in my case for the same reason--to get the feet on the bottom.
I first drilled and tapped the clip for set screws then marked where the holes contact the PID housing. Marked through the drilled holes with the clip pushed tight to the PID. I wanted to drill a small indent on the housing but actually drilled all the way through the plastic--lucky there was nothing below the holes :)
This mod works fine and I'm happy with it
walt
After reading all the posts in this thread, I'm sold. I ordered parts from Auberins yesterday and am now playing the waiting game. :( I can't wait to put one of these together to use with my Lee Pro 4-20!
Congrats on your decision. You won't regret it! :)
Used mine today for the first time.:awesome:Worked perfect! Love it!
My parts came in and I built my PID. Plugged it in and it works like a charm! Many thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread![smilie=w:
In the pic, it was heating up for the first time under PID control.
I have wanted to make this change to my lead pot and finally got around to it this winter. Thanks to your excellent post Cranium the project was easy. Not exactly like yours but will work for me.
The holder for the thermocouple is made from a 3/8" stainless pipe coupling fillled with a piece of "Cordiorite Solder Pad" purchased from Tripps.com, two 3/8" stainless washers are tack welded to each end to keep the insert in place, and an 1/8" hole was drilled through the center.
The spacer to hold the thermocouple off the bottom is also part of a solder pad with a hole drilled through it.
John
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/k...loading004.jpg
Since making my PID I have come up with 2 more uses for it.
When setting up my Lube sizer heater I used it to calibrate my heat adjuster (aka dimmer switch)
Last time I made bullet lube I went looking for the wifes cooking thermometer. It was broken. So I got the PID an used it so I wouldn't' scorch my FWFL.
Kevin