link opens to a black page, no download :(
Printable View
Thanks for the compliments. I see from your last picture I also forgot the pin retaining set screw holes in the toggle arms. I'm sure though that anyone that builds the press and gets that far will figure that part out :grin:
In any case it was a good exercise for me. I like to build machines in CAD before
I build them in the shop to make sure I won't run in to any major problems. It
is cheaper to change a file than it is to scrap a part.
Hopefully others will find the drawings useful too.
matt
Sorry Rock. It works for me (and it looks like other, based on my server logs). If you get me your email I can send you the file that way.
matt
Wow, I just walked through this thread taking notes, and then I get to MattM's drawings! Thank you both! Now if you'll excuse me, I'll be in the shop...
GsT
Link worked for me. Attached (if you don't mind mattm) in case others should ever had link problems.
For someone well seasoned in the world of metalworking, and had the material on hand, how many manhours do you think it would take to do?
This press looks an order of magnitude above both the Corbin S press and the RCE Walnut Hill press.
I am not capable of making this press. Is there anyone here who could make one for me? Or can any recommend a couple of machine shops who would be open to a lunatic trying to get one made.
Am I wrong in thinking that this press can use some of the off the shelf fittings for the press/ram like the punch holder and what not.
Again....anyone out there that can make this or know anyone who can be recommended.
If built per the plans you should be able to use any of the Walnut Hill fittings and dies, punch holder etc.
If you change the threads and whatever else necessary in the ram other dies could be used.
I may make a couple more this winter. Honestly the price Richard Corbin sells the Walnut Hill for is a bargain. If you dont mind the wait the $399.00 price is well worth it.
This press is more on the lines of Dave Corbins Mega Mite which I think he sells for $999.00
If you have the means to build one it is a real fun and worth while project. But for the time and effort involved it would be tough to put a price on having someone else do it
I've probably just missed it along the way but why is the hole in the bottom of the ram 11/16" with a 7/8" counterbore? Isn't it supposed to be 1/2" or does it use a bushing on each side?
thanks guys :)
It's so you can but one of these:
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?P...PMPXNO=5873905
in each side. Or you could change it to suit a different bearing. I just used that one because I happened to be on the Enco site looking up something else and looked to see what they had for 1/2" sleeve bearings.
matt
^^ Thanks :)
I just used straight bronze bushings on all the bearing surfaces. Then just a straight hole is needed.
You can get different thickness bushings, I got mine from Mcmaster. Just make sure the hole is made to fit the bushing ;)
On the bottom pivot of the ram I used a 5/8 OD bushing (1/2 bore) and just put a 5/8 hole thru the ram (drilled then finished with w 5/8 endmill)
Attached, should the link die. Self interest here -- this is on my long-term to-do list. :Fire:
Sleeve - Bearings Inside Diameter: 1/2 Outside Diameter: 11/16 Overall Length: 1/2 Flange Outside Diameter: 7/8 Material: Oil Impregnated Bronze
Inside Diameter (Inch): 1/2
Outside Diameter (Inch): 11/16
Overall Length (Inch): 1/2
Flange Outside Diameter (Inch): 7/8
Material: Oil Impregnated Bronze
Model #325-7569
OK, new to swaging, still don't have my first swage press , but these drawings may change that sooner than later. And very possibly cancel my order for the Walnut Hill.
So as a newbie I do have one question regarding the side by side of the Walnut Hill press and the Cast Boolit Monster. The Walnut Hill has a spring around the ram, is this just a "nice" feature, or is the Cast Boolit press designed so this is not needed?
-AbitNutz
I have extremely limited access to a machine shop, but I plan to ask questions here, then supply the material to a local machine shop to have the pieces made, then assemble it all myself. Keeping my fingers crossed it'll all go together smoothly. Of course I am going for a sexy red paint job so the wife will buy into it.
You need the spring to keep the internal punch down on the up stroke. I just didn't put it into the drawing.
matt
Guys nothing major is left out, A basic knowledge of machinining and swaging really helps when you build the press. Its a pretty straight forward machining operation but unless you get a bargain on machining I think paying some place to machine it would get really expensive.
I use the big press without the spring, I still havent got around to adding a spring yet. On most applications it isnt required but as Matt mentioned on some dies the bottom puch is a real snug fit and needs to be pulled back down.
Many dies it really doesent matter, as mentioned Ive ran a lot of bullets thru the big press without a spring.
Thanks for the drawings, I need to find some material now!
I have a buddy that works at a local machine shop, should be able to get a cut rate price fro the machining. Then again I may be able to get one of the Navy machinists on base to do the work, a case of Fat Tire and a bottle of whiskey goes a long way with these guys. Only give them the liquor AFTER the job is done!
This may be a stupid question because I'm just investigating swaging and don't totally understand the process. Could a 1-ton arbor press (like from Harbor Freight) be modified for bullet swaging? Looks like the die would have to be mounted upside down in the base because they just have a square ram.
The main thing I want to do it hollowpoint my .38 boolits.