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According to the Lee website, they will not make a factory crimp die for the 475 Linebaugh. Does anyone know how a Lee die can be modded to do 475 Linebaugh? ie can the rifle length be cut down and use 480 Ruger collets? Does somebody else manufacture a crimp die? Companies like Buffalo Bore seem to use a crimp die vs taper.
There's really no reason that the 480 Ruger can't be used. The 475 is the parent cartridge.
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I believe the collet relies on brass length to crimp. Therefore the 475 brass being roughly 1/8" longer wouldn't work in the 480 crimper. I do know that the collet crimper works better using near maximum trim lengths so the full length of the crimp ring can be utilized.
I am a believer in Redding profile crimp dies for hard hitting big bores in revolvers. I have a 480 Redding crimp die. I will check to see if there is enough extra die to adjust for 475 linebaugh.
Yep, those are the cats meow. :D
I haven't tried the Redding profile crimp die. I've tried others and still had problems either shaving or not getting a firm crimp under heavy loadings. The collet die does a superb job, but just not available for the Linebaugh.
With the Redding, you can get all the crimp that you want. If you adjust it lightly, it will give what looks very much like a taper crimp. Go in a little farther, and it will give you a good roll crimp. Go in even further, and it puts what looks like a sleeve around the bullet. Many of the heavy hitters from the smaller ammo companies have this same look. I don’t know what you call it, except a heavy crimp.
I suspect shaving lead would be a different problem.
If you're shaving lead in a heavy cast bullet crimp, seat then crimp. Two separate dies needed.Quote:
Originally Posted by akrifleman
Then with an adequate mouth bell the shaving will disappear.
I fought the shaving lead for years trying to seat and crimp at the same time. It only works well with bullets with huge crimp grooves. I fixed it by going to seating and crimping in separate operations. I also use a Redding Profile crimp die. It is the best I have used so far.
I never seat and crimp at the same time. This isn't a one pass problem, nor a belling issue. I'm not having issues while *seating*.
I originally used taper dies with the seating backed off, and it didn't work well on a couple calibers, particularly the 475 Linebaugh. Even with the stem removed, when you attempt a hard taper, the bullet will shave or the brass will create a ring at the mouth at least some of the time. If I'm really really careful with trim and depth, I can minimize loss. Many of my taper dies try to push the bullet down, as they really are not made for heavy crimps. Seems particular calibers, narrow cannelures, and seating depths are more touchy.
I've moved to the Lee for everything else I could, because it creates a perfect crimp, and the pressure is from the sides and not the top. It is perhaps trim length sensitive, but handles various seating depths and cannelure differences very well. I'm also convinced I've gotten better accuracy, which is subjective, sure. Most importantly, I've had modern loading try to loosen crimp sometimes, and that has never happened with a Lee collet die. "Linebaugh" level loadings are quite stout. I've not tried the Redding Profile die, but I already have one on order. Here is hoping...
Another plus for the Redding die is that it doesn’t bulge the case when a heavy crimp is applied.
I've particularly had that problem on thinner wall cases like the 38-55 and the 38WCF (modern loadings), but sometimes on 475 as well. I'm usually able to work that out by fiddle farting with it, but that is really nice to hear about the Redding.Quote:
Originally Posted by Wheelguns 1961
I have a friend that seems to overcrimp everything. I have gifted this friend many cast bullets that were fit to his specific revolvers. He always complained that his gun wouldn’t chamber the loaded rounds. He thought the bullets were too fat. It was always because he was overcrimping, and the crimp die was bulging the case. I talked him into using Redding crimp dies, and he hasn’t had the problem since.Quote:
Originally Posted by akrifleman
Have a look at this thread, I modify the crimp band, make it narrower, and I shorten the collet to bring the crimp band right to the end of the case or just a tad below, for the 475 I would suggest using a 480 Ruger collet crimp die and have it modified like I show in the thread in the link, then use a washer for a spacer, you can vary the thickness of the spacer to move the crimp band up. You would have to remember to put the spacer on every time you are ready to crimp.
https://castboolits.gunloads.com/sho...=1#post2239315
Thanks DougGuy, that is what I was looking for.
Wheelguns1961, I believe I probably didn't state that very well. With taper crimps I've only run into bulging (on those two) where I needed stronger crimps because the boolit already wasn't staying secure. They were touchy between not getting crimp or bulging, with little margin. I imagine it could have just been those two dies as well? Once I started using the collet dies, the problem vanished. I'm hoping the Redding does the same. If not, I'll do the modification DougGuy was referring to... (and what I was originally suspecting I'd need).
I use the Redding for .475 Linebaugh, works great.