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I have a true gem older pin barreled model 63 Smith & Wesson. Unfortunately it is hard to load the rounds as they have to be shoved into the cylinder and just as difficult to extract once fired. I believe I need to get the cylinder reamed to alleviate the issue. I recall a member here offering these services does anyone recall who this member was? Thank you.
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I had the same issues with one of my .22 revolvers, and found that honing the chambers with oiled Flex Hone polishers from Brownell's corrected the issue with minimal cost and very little elbow grease.
https://www.brownells.com/tools-clea...ishing-system/
I just dipped the hone in some cutting oil after chucking it in a hand-held household power drill, and had at it.
Baby steps recommended - polish, test cartridge fit, rinse & repeat as req'd.
I believe you are looking for DougGuy. Lot of satisfied customers.
Does it chamber hard with ALL .22's or just one brand? I have a couple cartons of Winchester bulk bought years ago that chamber hard in a S&W 63, a Ruger Single-Six and won't work at all in a Ruger 22/45. Federal, CCI, Aguila all work fine in the same firearms. Could be the cartridges?
I, too, have a Model 63 of similar vintage -- mine has s/n M106xxx -- and, bion, I have had similar challenge with some BRANDS of ammo. I recall, upon purchase, the dealer threw in a couple of 50-round boxes of Smith & Wesson brand .22 lr ammo which I could only get in 3/4 to 7/8 of the way without tremendous force! Going back to dealer to complain, he gave me a couple of boxes of el cheapo .22 which dropped right into the cylinders. I have no idea what brand/type you are trying, but since I have found CCI .22 ammo works just fine in my Model 63. (I still have those S&W .22s...never attempted loading/shooting them after the fact ;))Quote:
Originally Posted by 380AUTO
geo
I would try different ammo before modifying the gun.
I clean cruddy revolver chambers like this: thoroughly sop the chambers with Ed's Red and let soak for a few minutes. Chuck a rifle caliber bronze bore brush (22 for this case) in a drill/driver and move forth and back in each chamber as you spin the brush at low speed, about 5 seconds per chamber. Dry with a patch.
Unless there are burrs at the chamber mouth, this has always worked.
My S&W 317 (J Frame Air wt) does this and cleaning the cylinder chambers is required. This one also gets residue under the extractor plate and causes issues closing the cylinder into the frame. I use Ed's Red and a hand brush with seized bearings in the Tee handle. I may try the drill trick.
I hold with Pietro on this one. I would either hone the chambers myself or have them honed. Given the frequent "droughts" we have experienced over the last two decades, I want my 22 to be able to shoot what ever I can find.
My 317 is a great little gun, but sticking is a constant problem. Do not dare try to polish chambers do to the coating on the aluminum cylinder. Just keep soaking and swabbing. My buddies new 63 8 shooter sticks badly and misfired on 18 different varieties of shells. # trips back to factory has resulted in numerous new parts including a barrel last time. Have heard SW has even installed SS cylinders in 317's to remedy sticking problems. GW
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Oh - I forgot ! [smilie=b:
First check the rear of the chambers for dry-firing damage, where the FP falling on empty chambers will displace a small bit of material from the chambers walls, at the edge of the chamber's rim recess'.
They will effect both chambering and extraction.
If the displacements are found, please Do NOT file them away - the use of a .22RF chamber ironing tool will move the material back in place, tout' suite'.
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Thanks everyone for the suggestions I’ll throw it back in the safe for now.
I've had a Model 63 for 30 something years. Never had a bit of trouble with cases sticking, and I've fired a plethora pf different 22LR rounds in it. I would first soak 'em good with Hoppes #9, and run a 22 caliber bore brush through them. It may have had a steady diet of 22 Shorts over the years.
As stated above on cleaning. Maybe just decades old WD-40 or something dried out and caked up, acetone is a friend.
If you choose to ream the chambers, you only need to do it once and the problem does not return. Proper use of a reamer will result in a perfect chamber, not lopsided, not egg shaped, not wallowed out.
I solved the issue by selling my Model 17, Model 34 and 22 Target Masterpiece rather than ream the chambers. I did not compete in rimfire revolver and have not missed them.
That might work for you.
Kevin
Very common on older smith 22. Purchased a finish chamber reamer from brownells and problem solved. Easy to do and shoots all brands well.
Send it to DougGuy and let him fix it correctly ... shoving it in the safe isn't the answer .Quote:
Originally Posted by 380AUTO
DougGuy's a Pro and this kind of "fix" is right up his alley ... he will make it right !
Gary
I've read about this several times and I had the same issue in my 1982 M63. My Dad lapped the cylinderson mine with a small piece of light grit sandpaper wrapped around a mandrel, spun around with a drill for a short time. Solved the issue for mine.
DougGuy worked the cylinder for my Model 17. It works flawlessly with no more cases sticking. It’s now a pleasure to shoot.