Best jig to use converting .223 to .300bo

I have an ample supply of .300BO brass, but am going to help a newbie ease into reloading. I have a ton of .223 brass, so I am going to venture into make several hundred rounds of it into .300bo brass. I have a harbor freight chop saw, which jig/gauge have you fellers used that is the best to use. Also from what I understand, once you trim it, you need to chamfer/deburr, then run into a .300 sizing die, then you are good to load? I am also swaging the primer pockets first. All replies appreciated.,

I bought one of the 3d printed jigs online. They just get you in the general length. I trim to length with my WFT after sizing.


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You will need to trim the length after you run them through the sizing die, then chamfer and debur again.

As many have mentioned in my thread “300 bo woes” a fella posted different 223 cases that need to be neck thickness trimmed to run right.

I bought ZepReloading 300 blackout cutting jig. I found kit easy to install on HF cut off saw. I had an abundance of 223, 5.56. I had a Forster trimmer to get to correct length after reforming. I knew that I would likely need to do outside neck turning on NATO stamped brass and Lake City. I added the outside neck turner parts to Forster.

I use the Zepreloading jig also. Works well with a good blade on the HF saw. A little STP on the detent ball speeds it up.

https://www.zepreloading.com/store/c..._Products.html

I use this one. $12 to your door.

https://demetersworkshop.com/shop/ol...0-blc-trm-jig2

He's on eBay too.

I also use one from demeters workshop.

I use the ZepReloading jig, it is nice, accurate, and super fast with that detent system.

I'm currently using this one https://www.squirreldaddy.com/Deluxe...p/sd24-102.htm and have had no issues using the Harbor Freight chop saw. Also, I use RCBS .300 AAC Blackout SB Taper Crimp Die Set.

What works for me is, I remove the decapping pin from sizing die, lube up clean 223 or 5.56x45 NATO brass cases with Lee lube, run up through sizing die, cut the brass to length, chamfer/deburr, re-install decapping pin, run cases back up into sizing die for neck sizing and seat primer. I set the seating taper crimp die to seat only then a separate die for crimping. Good luck!

+1 on the Zep jig, I have cut a few thousand cases with it, it is extremely fast but does toss the cases a bit, but I solved that by cutting them in a plastic tote, works like a charm.

Another vote for the squirreldaddy ad the little Harbor Freight chop saw

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Originally Posted by Omega

+1 on the Zep jig, I have cut a few thousand cases with it, it is extremely fast but does toss the cases a bit, but I solved that by cutting them in a plastic tote, works like a charm.

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I mounted the Zep Reloading jig to the end of the bench on it's side, with a 5 gal bucket below. Push the brass in and everything falls straight down into the bucket.

There is a guy in Greely Colorado that makes and sells cut off jigs that have a ball detent that holds the case in place while it is being cut off by the chop saw. the newly cut off case is pushed out of the jig when you insert a new case into the jig. You simply push the next case to be cut off into the jig until the detent ball catches and hold the case in place. Works great. I have one he made me for cutting off 30-06 cases to form to 8x57mm cases. He sells these on evil bay. I think I paid $21.85 for mine including shipping. He has a video on ytube that very easily shows how it works. He goes by the name of "enderjones" on evil bay. james

[QUOTE=Chainsaw.;5340778]You will need to trim the length after you run them through the sizing die, then chamfer and debur again.

I use a Squirrel Daddy jig and Harbor Freight chop saw.

With a little adjustment of the jig, you can cut off the .223 case at the length which will be correct after you size the case in a 300BO die. No trimming after sizing necessary.