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You guys happen to do anything special to used molds you got from other casters ? My 6cav lee .225 is having some problems so I'm switching to my HM2.225. it's used and the previous owner said it was casting great so was wondering if I should prep it like a new mold or just lube the sprew plate a little and start casting ?
I generally just try a used mould. Course I lube it first via my carpenter pencil. If I have any issues once it's hot, I will fill the cavities with lighter fluid and let it boil, then go back to casting.
Fill the cavities with lighter fluid ? Never heard of that oneQuote:
Originally Posted by Bazoo
Prep used mold before casting?
If there isn't anything visually obvious that would need addressing, I will wash it with Hot tap water, dish soap, and toothbrush...then pre-heat it and start casting...I lube sprue plate after the first fill, with boolits still in cavities.
Casting 22 boolits can be troublesome, you must keep the mold hot for the best results.
With most molds (especially Lee), I pull them apart, debur and check sprue plate for flatness and fit. I find damage(galling) at the sprue plate screw area on s lot of them so I dress mold top flat on a flat surface with fine emery paper. I have had to tweak quite a few 6 cav molds (even new ones) to make them fit together properly.
I hadn't either until I came up with it. I was having problems with a mould and I spritzed the hot mould with lighter fluid. It didn't burst into flames so I did more and I eventually realized if you fill the cavities with fluid, it will boil. It really does a good job of cleaning out any oil left in the cavities. It does better when the mould is hot but not quite to casting temperature.
If the mold looks ok for me i"ll try to cast with it and see how it casts. If problems show up then i deal with them.
We really need more information before we can accurately help you.Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolfdog91
Explain in detail alloy, alloy temperature, and acting technique used.
I agree with jonb, always clean/scrub the cavities before you start casting with it.
Especially with the 55grn (small boolits), you need to preheat your mold. I set my mold on a 400° hotplate at the same time I turn my pot on and usually get good casts right from the start.
Good Pictures are worth a thousand words (and we love pictures :) )
Well when I say problems as in I kinda broke it lol. The sprew plate had a bad gap between the bottom and the top of the mold, asked on a FB casting group had folks saying I should tighten. The mold or lube the mold so on and so on.... The bolt head for the sprew plate was rounded by the previous owner....wellll mad scientist kicked in .. on thing leads to another , broken bolt, drills bits , easy outs see the mold is 100% squared, sand paper...... Look it was a long night lol. Not to mention I got my HM2 mold prepped like y'all suggested and went to start casting, worked the sprew plate and "PING" that sprew plate broke off ! More drill bits cutting oil....it was a irritating nightQuote:
Originally Posted by Conditor22
you broke a HM˛ sprue plate :shock::shock::shock:
I have a couple HM˛ molds (one is the 225-62), I can't even imagine breaking the sprue plate or the bolt that mounts it.
You need to work on your technique ...and maybe avoid FB advice.
You should have seen my face ! I can't tell you how excited I was to try this mold. Went scrubbed it with damn and hot water real good sat it on my hot plate on low to dry it took it off after about 10min star it on my metal table to let it cool for about 20min. Went it was cool to the touch cleaned the cavities with acatone. Slipped it on my mold handles and sat it back in my hot plate, about ten min later I went to do my first pour so i could lube eveything up ( was told to never lube it the cavities where empty). Took my gloves hand and worked the sprew plate half way and "PING" the dang bolt head snapped of and out jumped half way across my car port. Like I can understand it I had been beating on it or something but I figured I did everything right ! On the bright side a drill and a old allen key got the broken bolt out by I'm kinda irritatedQuote:
Originally Posted by JonB_in_Glencoe
WOW, that's crazy. I'd be irritated too. I wonder if the bolt had a flaw? or if previous owner swapped out the bolt with some china junk bolt?Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolfdog91
Irritated? That would really upset the Pope.
And he didn't get very mad at that guy who shot him.
"Well when I say problems as in I kinda broke it lol. The sprew plate had a bad gap between the bottom and the top of the mold, asked on a FB casting group had folks saying I should tighten. The mold or lube the mold so on and so on.... The bolt head for the sprew plate was rounded by the previous owner....wellll mad scientist kicked in .. on thing leads to another , broken bolt, drills bits , easy outs see the mold is 100% squared, sand paper...... Look it was a long night lol. Not to mention I got my HM2 mold prepped like y'all suggested and went to start casting, worked the sprew plate and "PING" that sprew plate broke off ! More drill bits cutting oil....it was a irritating night"
The sprew plate had a bad gap between the bottom and the top of the mold meaning the sprue plate touched on both ends and had a gap in the middle?
in this case, I would take the sprue plate off, get some 220 wet/dry paper on a tile or piece of glass, and sand until it was flat again then smooth the bottom with 600 grit and re-round the edges
Instead of tightening the sprue plate bolt, you should have gotten a wave washer or 2 and put it/them between the sprue bolt and sprue plate to apply light pressure.