Difficult Barrel Removal on Mauser
OK,
I've removed about a dozen Mauser barrels over the last few years. Each has only required that I load it into my Wheeler Barrel Vise, crank the vise down tight and than give the barrel wrench a good strong hammer whack (scientific term there) to loosen it up from the receiver for easy removal.
I've got a M24/47 Yugo with a crap barrel that has not budged with several good whacks. Instead the rifle turns within my oak blocks and I've got the vise cranked down and then tapped tight. I've never used the Rosin (at $14 for 6oz) that MidwayUSA hypes in their catalog.
I've read before that heat applied to the barrel may help loosen things up (expansion/contraction)or that relief cuts on the barrel itself might help.
Three Questions:
1 -IS the powdered resin worth the money or is there something else that can be used to keep the barrel from turning within the barrel blocks?
2. Heat should be applied to the barrel since it's crap and to prevent any issues with heat treating of the Mauser Receiver, correct?
3. IF I Cut the barrel (its worthless due to rust and pitting),How deep? And are the relief cuts parallel to the barrel's bore or do I cut the relief cut around the entire circumference? Brownells' "Gunsmith's Kinks" book series talks about the cut but don't provide a picture. I've got a Dremel and I'm not afraid to use it (famous last words...)
My regular gunsmith friend closed his shop while I was deployed and is currently in Afghanistan on contract maintenance work for the next year.
I'm on vacation for the next couple of weeks and I'd like to get this barrel off to reset it for a cast boolit only 22-250.
Bruce