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My 10 yr. old M-10 in 308 has a trigger which has become inconsistent. Looking around I see that Timney offers a replacement, and YouTube has videos of refining the existing trigger either through stoning or spring change outs. Has anybody already been down this path and would be willing to share what you learned?
Google savage shooters, they have a forum for 10/ 110 models, Axis models with gobs of trigger/ accutrigger info, problems and fixes.
sharpshooter supply was what i went with a few years back, as i truly dislike the craputrigger.
i had a savage m112 with an accutrigger and i hated it. my son and my dad are fans of the accutrigger, so i gave the gun to them. sharp shooter supply are discontinued. i'd go with the timney trigger.
I personally would not give up on the Savage trigger,but I would also personally not feel confident in removing any material from the sear.Even though they are not AcuTriggers they are very adjustable.The spring in them is just a straight spring with a small hex screw at the end,and it adjust the trigger weight.The sear,as well as over travel is also fully adjustable.If you are getting an inconsistant trigger pull I would at least try cleaning,and adjusting it.I have had wire spring ejectors on Marlin 22s act up due to fatigue .I would venture to guess that your trigger spring would be the only cause of inconstistancy if everything is clean.A spring would cost next to nothing.
I have a 12 BVSS before the Accutrigger came out.
Have a Timney in it now, as I use it for Shooting High Power, and I really Like it.
Got it down to a few oz.
Barman54
Out
I have an older Sharps shooter target trigger on a 112
bvss I have it set at 4OZ. unfortunately the no longer are available.
Dave
Timney has always made a great trigger. I dislike the accutrigger and everyone's copy thereof. The only Savage here is a Stevens 200 .243 with the old 110 trigger that I have set at 3# and sealed the adjustment screws.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
I have some experience with getting the target version set a little lighter, in my low tech way. In my previous experience cutting the springs didn't work very well, so I was interested in finding another way to get lighter spring pressure for my target rifle shooting Varmint for score at 100 yards.
I remembered some examples of dealing with spring rates with motorcycle suspension. You don't get a softer spring by cutting it shorter, it's just the opposite- the spring is actually stiffer. If you want a softer feeling spring look at the preload or dimension setting of the spring. To get the main spring set softer you need to back it off or loosen it, but you can only go so far until that spring hits the body of the trigger. What I did was grind the top of that trigger body about 1/16" to allow the spring to be backed off that much more. I like the idea because it just allows more range of adjustment rather than a permanent change like cutting a spring. I'll try to attach a picture that shows the grind.
That change allowed the main spring to be backed off nicely, but by itself it didn't work as I wanted. The slightest side pressure or contact would click the center blade and the trigger had to be reset before it would fire.
The problem apparently is matching the spring for the center blade to tension on the main spring. The solution I found was to get a lighter spring for the center blade at the hardware store. The nice thing about this spring is there's no exotic twist on the ends to keep it in place.
Is it the equivalent of a Rifle Basix? No, but it's a lot better than stock. And it's fun to tinker and not have to spend the money.
I don't know how much of this may translate to a normal accutrigger but it's nice that you can always set it back to original if you keep track of your parts etc.
Not sure about this image posting stuff... for some reason the image is turned. Hopefully you can see where the body has been ground under that main spring.