Love making these, no extra press and very effective in my Governor. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...56f5af52ea.jpg
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
Printable View
Love making these, no extra press and very effective in my Governor. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...56f5af52ea.jpg
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
Recipe?
444marlin brass is good for the judge and governor but for a 3" chambered NEF or Sav Mod24 fireformed 9.3x74R makes great 3" brass. side note fireforming might make a wobbled case mouth but easily trimmed straight
I have been known to load something like that using 45-70 brass
I kind of want to load shot shells for my .444 lone eagle.
I prefer to be a bit ambiguous since this is not a factory load but....a published 410 load of lil'gun, a waa410hs wad, top of the wad with #9 approx 128 gr. and an overshot card made from an old win primer sleeve cover and a 7/16 hole punch. Top it off with a dab of the glue of your choice..8)
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
I use a std load of powder, an upside down 44cal gas check over powder, a cereal box disc over gas check, 3/4 oz of #9 shot and another cereal box disc over shot glued in with silicone. The plastic 410 wads take up too much room to get a full 3/4 oz of shot and they are a bit small dia for the 444 case.
These are shot in a Savage 22/410 with good results.
Great stuff, but as for recipes:
http://www.grantcunningham.com/2014/...10-shotshells/ Good place to start
I've used these as well, 9.3x74r make great 410 3" shells, 444 marlins make really good 2.5 shells 303 british work well but require a really good annealing on the neck and they don't always form first try, also the case heads tend to be a little too thick and will require a few swipes with a fine file to correct this or they wont allow the breech to close inside diameter tends to not fit plastic wads well as there are some cases with quite a taper on the inside. The best 303 brass (for me anyway) has always been the older Dominion/CIL these don't seem to split as bad when fire forming if you can find them.
I've formed 100 + .303 cases for my Lee Enfield No. 1 MK III in .410 Musket and have never lost a case during fire-forming. First I anneal about 1/2 down the case, then prime, load about 8.5 grains of Nitro Trap 100 (just because I have lots of it), a 1/4 sheet of toilet tissue, bulk yellow cornmeal up to the case mouth, then another 1/4 sheet of toilet tissue to hold it all in place. I press the toilet tissue into the cases with a short piece of wooden doweling. They blow out fully on fire-forming. Although these are perfect for my .410 Musket since it was designed for a 2.25" case length, they are about 1/4" short for a standard 2 1/2" .410 case. I load them with a single .410" round ball or with "buckshot" loads of #2 shot. Still working up suitable loads, but 2400 looks promising so far.
https://i.imgur.com/FToT3vI.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/fy3HB4D.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/dFA7lgv.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/cYtP7Lw.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/jjKzJzN.jpg
I've also fire-formed Norma 9.3x74R brass into .40-90 3" for my Ballard Pacific and some of the same brass in a 3" .410 O&U shotgun with great results. I use a similar forming load with about 10 grains of Nitro Trap 100 ...
https://i.imgur.com/twKqzi9.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/qh9tkz9.jpg
I am seriously considering buying a 410 just so i have a reason to make brass shells. I need to read up on what tools/ dies are needed and the process for forming 3" shells. Is a shotshell press needed?
No sir... no press required... or needed.. just a standard press with shell holder makes things easier..
Thanks Markopolo, so it is pretty much just a matter of fire forming as Reverend does then loading with a dowel? What about resizing after firing? I'll be doing some googling but if anyone has links outlining the process I'd be interested in reading them.
Yes, once fire-formed the brass cases chamber in the same gun shot after shot without any need for resizing. (If they were being fired in several different .410 shotguns that might change of course.) It's easier to deprime and reprime on your press with a standard shell holder, but after that all operations can be easily done by hand without special tools.
Here's a Youtube video loading brass Magtech .410 hulls. The process is the same with fire-formed .303 British, .444 Marlin, or 9.3x74R cases too.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SY2ZkRQlL9o
Thank you Reverend Al. Much appreciated
No problem ... hope you form some brass .410 hulls and have some fun!
my entire 410 loading kit is in a small steel tool box bought at wall mart. one lee hand press a set of 444marlin dies a 7/16 hollow punch a bunch of those paper bar coasters a few empty primer tray sleeves a couple trays of large pistol primers a small plastic jar of red dot a couple of the same jars of #4 shot a scoop that gets 10gr of powder (two scoop charge) and a scoop for 11/16oz shot, ohh and a lee hand primer (old one with the round tray)