Should there be a gap between the top of the magazine box and the receiver cutout it fits into? If so, how much (using a wooden stock)?
Thanks!
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Should there be a gap between the top of the magazine box and the receiver cutout it fits into? If so, how much (using a wooden stock)?
Thanks!
Yes, 1/32" aprox. Just so it dosn't touch
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If you're bedding the receiver, there should also be a minute clearance between the rear of the magazine well and the stock web.
Also, if bedding, don't forget to clearance the bottom, both sides, and the front face of the recoil lug, for the best accuracy.
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Yes a little to compress the stock. A layer of electrical tape in the places Pietro mentioned coated with release agent is an easy method to use. The rear guard screw sleeve should be used always as well- I've seen it left out and you can bind the action without it.
The back face of the recoil lug has to be a hard/tight fit obviously. Should the rear tang have a tiny amount of clearance as well? I seem to recall some claims that there should be a tiny amount of clearance (to prevent stock splitting) and others that say none at all (maybe that's with glass bedding?). I plan on turning the rear guard screw spacer essentially into a pillar by epoxying the spacer in place. I've got some aluminum tubing with an I.D. that fits the 1/4-22 rear guard screw that I am planning on using for a spacer/pillar.Quote:
Originally Posted by pietro
This is my first time stocking a Mauser 98. The others have been .22 rimfires and one Sako. I've been using Kuhnhausen's shop manual and Wesbrook's Professional Stockmaking as references.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steven66
Yes, leave a 1/32" space @ the rear of the tang - as stated above, a layer of masking tape, waxed after application, will remove easily & leave the desired gap after removel.
I would be VERY careful about bedding the guard screw spacers - insure that the guard screw itself doesn't contact anything other than the receiver threads (plug threaded holes with paste wax prior to bedding) and their seats in the T/G assembly.
If they contact the stock wood, they will eventually promote splitting.
Another thing to think about is to inlay a threaded steel screw across the stock wood (perpendicular to the bore) of the recoil lug w/o the ends showing outside the stock, as a strengthening cross bolt. (Probably only needed for .30cal & up chamberings)
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I've been extremely careful to plug holes with modelling clay and use lots of release agent ever since one stock held onto the the barrelled action really tight. It finally came loose after several hours in the chest freezer.Quote:
Originally Posted by pietro
I planned on using masking tape and wax/grease/release compound around the screw shaft to center it in the spacer so that the rear screw wouldn't contact the inside walls of the spacer. I suppose there's no particular reason to epoxy the spacer into the stock. i could just use a weak glue to keep it from falling out of the stock on disassembly.
There's a crossbolt on my pattern stock. I hadn't planned on using one in the final stock, but I could probably shorten the crossbolt ends and bed it into the recoil lug shoulder as well. The rifle is chambered for .30-'06.