20 gauge plastic base slug

I got up this morning and finished this slug up..total weight 360 grains, a touch over 3/4 once. The lead section is .622 and plastic is .625. Alloy is 20:1 lead:tin. My first load was..federal 3 inch hull, 20 grains steel, a trimmed disperser wad (for cushion section only). 2- 10mm waxed cushion wads, roll crimpAttachment 187278
very modest load for the ush.. 1st group I ever shot with these..2.54" @ 75 yards..I'm pretty happy..with a little load development..these will surely improve.. The biggest challenge will be finding a cushion wad that is easier to trim than the one I'm using now.Attachment 187280

Would love to try those in my USH.


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Uncle D, I've used some rubber/cork cards in the 12 ga version of those and had excellent results. They have a sticky side allowing you to adjust for proper column height. I can send you some to try.


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Sounds good.. I also just ordered some felt to try also..d

Uncle D,

I saw you had offered the 12 gauge version for sale in the other thread that is running right now. Any plan to sell these?

Yes.. I plan on selling them..gotta do 50 cents on these too..base washers are a bit more expensive..d

Here's a 5 shot group I worked up this morning..I am trying to simplify wad column..if I wouldn't have taken that 5th shot. Would have been 1 1/4....Attachment 187702
ill post wad column later.. These have got me pretty excited.. d

Impressive , almost all touching at a 100 yards . I can't get that group with a $ 18. 00 box of five .

Well you can roll these for under a buck..with premium components..d

Here's the wad column. 3 inch federal hull, 23.5 gr. Steel, bpi sg20L sporting wad. Just tear the petals off, 10mm waxed cushion wad, slug.. Roll crimp, compress the load approximately 1/8 inch. I will probably add a 28 gauge 1/8 hard card between plastic and cushion wad to fill the little void in plastic. D Attachment 187728

Uncle d:

Are you making you own wads or buying from BPI?

I had planned to buy some of their specialty gas seals in 12 ga. for use as attached wads a couple of years ago but life got in the way and I never got to it. These guys:

http://www.ballisticproducts.com/HB1...tinfo/072HB12/

I figured I could cast a slug with a post on it then rivet over the post or use a screw through the hole to attach them to the slugs. I may still give them a try but when I tried to order in Canada the BPI rep didn't know what it was I wanted then things went a little haywire for a while and that project got left behind so not ordered.

I am climbing back into the shotgun slug loading saddle again though so looking at things again.

Anyway, they don't cost a bunch and they will be more consistent than anything I can cast out of hot melt glue or whatever. They might be useful for you too.

I attached a pic of some slugs I cast hot melt glue skirts onto back in 2012. One is my TC design which is very similar to your slug but not nearly as nice looking and one is a Lee Drive Key slug with cast on glue skirt.

Attachment 187730

They both shot quite well and the TC slugs did really well if I could get nice wads cast on but that was the trick. Your slugs are of course much nicer and more consistent In fact yours are beautiful slugs. You and Cap'n Morgan have both done a fantastic job in producing top quality slugs.

Longbow

Lb I buy them..I figured there was no sense re inventing the wheel..I know your a smoothbore shooter.. These do ok in smoothie..no better or worse than anything else..but I believe the bases are too short for smoothbore. Not quite enough there to stabilize slug even though they are weight forward.. That tc design you have pictured I would say did better because of longer base..with my design I have found no difference in accuracy between round nose and tc nose. I need to do some 150 yd testing to see if there is any difference in stabilization between the two..but being for rifled gun I don't expect to see a difference. D

So if you are using the same type of wads with the hole in is there any reason you can't use 2 or 3 to extend the wad for smoothbores?

I can't tell in the photo in post 10 if that is a groove around the plastic wad or if it is two wads but if a groove then another wad would be about perfect length for smooth bore slug and if its 2 then 1 or 2 more would extend it for smoothbore. Have you tried that?

I know you are using rifled gun but I bet there's a market for your slugs in smoothbore too. They'd probably work well in rifled choke tube too.

I should get back around to trying to order some of those 072HB12 again and give them a try. Not sure what the confusion was last time but the Canadian rep didn't know what they were even though I sent the order number. Probably no-one has ever ordered them from him before.

Terrific work you are doing uncle d!

Longbow

I have been unsuccessful at adding extra wads..if I could get a long one piece base wad, it would work.. The problem with 2 pieces that long is, they have a tendency to shift as they make their way through the forcing cone. I was lucky to hit a 5 gallon pail @ 50.. I'm getting good results with 2 pieces in the 20, but they are short. These slugs do not work with a hard wad column. Recovered slugs look like a parallelogram if hard column is used. Took me a while to figure that one out. D

Lb. here is what I think would be a better option..bpi disperser wad...make a base bin for your mold to match center post..peel petals of wad, and hot glue wad into base.. I've started on it, but been busy filling bullet orders that are coming in. So my extra testing has been put on hold. D
Attachment 187736

I'll check that out. Thanks uncle d!

I tried a wad a few years ago that looked a lot like the wad on the Gualandi DGS slug... but it wasn't quite as sturdy and distorted. Foiled again!

Yes, I have tried a few things myself and been pretty surprised at how much different they looked after being shot than before! I tried stacking and drilling nitro card wads in a jig and they looked great attached to the slug before I pulled the trigger but they kinda delaminated and got all raggedy like after firing. Yes, some damage is done at impact but you can tell that the wad just wasn't up to snuff.

I was thinking of real dense felt wads and they may work. That's what Brenneke used to use, but finding good felt wads then drilling and attaching just right well, there is the trick. There's always a trick!

When I can cast on good hot melt glue wads they work great but it is hard to avoid bubbles and getting clean sharp edges is not easy.

I went as far as machining attached wads out of HDPE for the Zlugs that Hogtamer sent me and even those didn't do well. That one actually surprised me because the slugs were a good fit to bore and the wad was quite long. I do have more Zlugs and plans for them though.

In the mean time I am enjoying following these threads.

Thanks,
Longbow

I ran the load I posted above over chronograph ..1320fps 5 shot avg. 20fps sd ..d

uncle Dino
I just ordered and received your 20ga plastic base slug and are chomping on the bit to get them loaded and fired, here's what I have to work with, blue dot, herco, unique, and 800x for powders, 3" fiocchi hulls, 1/2" cushion fiber wads, BPI commander wads, 28ga and 20ga .125 nitro wads, I'm thinking of the set up you have in the above post #10, only using commander wads with the petals removed and a 28ga nitro card inserted in the void where the petals were, also blue dot powder is my powder of choice, looking at the load data in the Lyman 5th for their 345gr foster slug their using 36gr of blue dot and 26gr 800x in the fiocchi 3" hull, any advise, thanks HC

Hatcreek, I was able to achieve greater velocity in a load derived from data for steel shot 3/4 oz loads from BPI using L'il Gun powder and cheddite hulls. Killed hogs and deer. So there is some variation of loads possible. Assumed from data mine were moving 1600 fps+. Sighted at 100 in savage 220 slugs were 4" high at 50 yds. Very good accuracy. Never shot them in smoothbore though.