Rooster Jacket: How do you apply this stuff?

I thought I would give Rooster Jacket a try, unfortunately the bottle I ordered from Midway arrived empty with the contents all over the inside of the package. If there were directions on the bottle they were not legible. I returned the package, but am still curious to give Rooster a try. The stuff is really sticky, and smells putrid. I cannot imagine applying this stuff to the jacket and then wrapping the boolit. How do you apply the Rooster Jacket to the paper patch?

Currently I wet wrap my boolits, allow to dry, and then lube with Matthews' 50:50 beeswax and Vaseline just prior to loading in the case. This method works and gives me good accuracy and a clean bore, but is rather messy. Matthews then suggests dipping the boolit in beeswax either before or after loading in order to waterproof the paper. Does anyone else waterproof their jackets this way? Are there better methods that are not so sticky?

I don't want anything on my bullet before or after patching. I want the patch to release when it clears the muzzle and not to ride down range with the bullet.
I water proof my bullets when hunting by carrying then in my pocket.

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but am still curious to give Rooster a try. The stuff is really sticky, and smells putrid. I cannot imagine applying this stuff to the jacket and then wrapping the boolit. How do you apply the Rooster Jacket to the paper patch?

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Rooster Jacket Waterproof Black Powder Cartridge Paper Patch Bullet Film Lube. Unique and versatile lube for swaged and cast lead pistol bullets, copper-jacketed bullets and bore pre-lubing. It contains no volatile solvents, but does contain rust preventives for steel, and corrosion inhibitors for brass and copper. Also a great way to waterproof paper patch paper. Wax/water liquid emulsion dries to a clear, hard, tough, waterproof, waxy film with a 210 F melting point. Easy and quick to apply by hand-dipping or flood coating. Almost odorless. May be applied over any factory lube. Also favored by Bullseye Competition .45 caliber pistol shooters. Designed for up to 1,400 fps. Economical. Comes in 16 oz. bottles.

* I waterproof my paper on PP rounds
* I tried it as a lube on 22LR bullets. When it dried, it flaked off

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Originally Posted by Lead pot

I don't want anything on my bullet before or after patching. I want the patch to release when it clears the muzzle and not to ride down range with the bullet.
I water proof my bullets when hunting by carrying then in my pocket.

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Humidity can get pretty bad where I hunt (especially in summers). I doubt a pocket would protect the patches from humidity and sweat. How do you seat your boolits without tearing the patch? I had problems seating dry patches no matter how excessively I expanded the brass.


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After the patch is dry, I just wipe some on with my fingers.

When I do use it, which isn't very often, I let the patches dry, put all the bullets in an ice cream tub, squirt a little rooster jacket on, and shake them up. Spread on wax paper to dry. Pretty much identical to tumble lube. Works pretty good in my 32 win spl.

-Nobade

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Originally Posted by 2ndAmendmentNut

Humidity can get pretty bad where I hunt (especially in summers). I doubt a pocket would protect the patches from humidity and sweat. How do you seat your boolits without tearing the patch? I had problems seating dry patches no matter how excessively I expanded the brass.


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My Chambers are tight. I use my chamber reamers for most of my rifle calibers. The patched bullet is one thousand over bore diameter, (I only shoot black) but if I was to shoot smokeless I would not change a thing except maybe patch between bore and groove diameter. I don't size my bullets they are the proper as cast diameter and the paper is .0018" thick. Mostly 100% cotton parchment cockle finish, it patches tighter. It wraps tight and stays put. Here I pulled a couple bullets before going to the range today to show what the patched bullets I use look like.
To answer your question on how I seat them with out tearing the patch.
My case mouths are chamfered so no rough edges to mar the patch or cause drag when shot. I hold my finger right on the case mouth and twist the bullet as I insert it in the case. The case mouth is tight enough so I don't have to size it and when I turn the round upside down and shake it the bullet will not fall out.
For a hunting load I might use a vellum paper that is .002" thick so it fits the case a little tighter and the 100% cotton has a lot of sizing that resists water better then parchment paper. I don't use any paper that is more then one thousand thicker double wrapped then the groove is deep.

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...pscqzrrwae.jpg

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Originally Posted by Lead pot

I don't want anything on my bullet before or after patching. I want the patch to release when it clears the muzzle and not to ride down range with the bullet.
I water proof my bullets when hunting by carrying then in my pocket.

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+1

dry wrap, no lube.

Remember folks, this is the smokeless powder paper patching room. Very different techniques compared to patching with black powder. I wouldn't use Rooster Jacket or anything else on my patches in the black powder guns. But you need some sort of lube on the patches when shot with smokeless, and RJ seems to work as well as most anything else and is a lot easier to apply to large quantities of bullets.

-Nobade