Anyone else have this happen to Lee mold?

I got a 6 banger off of another board member, a leftover from a fat 8mm group buy. Nice mold. However...............

I went to operate the cam to open the mold. I found it to be too hard to cam over by hand, using straight wheelweights! This despite using bullplate (which initially I found to be very nice...) So I tapped it with a stick, ala normal 2 and 1 cavity molds.... and broke the metal handle on the sprue cutter! Sheared off right at the point the metal enters the wooden handle.

I ordered a replacement from Lee, but being as it appears to be pig metal, anyone else ever experience this?

3 of them now. Lee will replace them for free.

Once the alloy has cooled too much, yup they are a brute to cut. When I have that happen, I try to hit the pivot screw nut with the plastic hammer. Never broke a handle yet, but now I'm doomed for sure.

Pre-heat that mold! It helps to fill only the 3 holes nearest the sprue hinge the first couple of fillings, too.

I've never cast hard boolits in a lee mold, also used a steel mold. I guess I should knock on my wooden head!! Good Luck.

two of mine that broke had distinct casting flaws in the metal.

One, but someone had drilled that through for a retaining screw before I got to it. It broke on the screw hole.

I would be willing to bet that the spew was not closed all the way every one that I have broke that was the reason just look on the bottom of the bullet the spot where the spew was cut is not centered there is a easy fix before you break the handle put a flat head screwdriver under the handle that gives you a little bit more leverage to cut the spew :castmine: 44Woody

Trying to cut cold metal with the sprue plate puts undue stress on the system. Pre-heat the mould by putting the lower front edge IN the molten metal for thirty seconds before starting to cast. I, now, have a hot plate next to my lead pot set on MEDIUM and pre-heat the mould on this while waiting for the alloy to melt. This will have the first cast hot enough that it greatly reduces the stress on the system.

Dale53

While I agree that the first culprit would be an inadequately heated mold, I did preheat it by dipping the corner in the metal for about 30 seconds... the ability to do that is one of my favorite features of the Lee aluminum blocks. No, it was preheated, and I was running the pot rather hot as well. I think that it was just a flaw in the casting, a natural weak spot.

Could have been a flaw in the metal, but I always (these days) make sure the sprue cutter is firmly against the block and don't wait too long to cut.

I broke one the same way a month or so ago.

A corner for 30 seconds isn't nearly long enough. The whole end for 90 seconds MIGHT be long enough. What I do is put some spit on my finger and touch the mould. If it sizzles and doesn't instantly vaporize it isn't hot enough. I have 16 LEE 6 gangers and I cast about 10,00 bullets a month or more and in 3 years I have never broken a handle. Don't think it is all luck. If you want you can do what others do, only cast the first hole, if it seems ok do the first 2 holes, and work your way up until all 6 shear off easily.

Update: I did some more casting with it this weekend (happy snowy easter from Northern Ohio!) and the new handle. I ran the pot on its highest setting and dunked the whole end in for 2 minutes. I got it to the point where bullets were frosting and the sprues were shearing off easily. I still stand by what I said, I DID preheat things the first time, but I'm not taking any more chances either- besides I like frosted bullets. Or boolits, for those who lean that way. :-)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by R.M.

Once the alloy has cooled too much, yup they are a brute to cut. When I have that happen, I try to hit the pivot screw nut with the plastic hammer. Never broke a handle yet, but now I'm doomed for sure.

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One
Cold mold with WW in cavs

I did the same with one of my six cavity lee molds. I think the sprue plate was not in its proper closed position.

I broke the handle off of a sixer for my 45 acp. I just redesigned a handle that I know is not going to break and haven't had a problem since. IMHO the handles are too weak and the cast pot metal where the handle attaches to the plate is a joke and is a waste of time getting a replacement. If the handles keep breaking and Lee has to keep sending people replacements I think it is time for him to rethink his design a little bit. Just my 2cents.

:drinks:
Calhunter