Hi I am new to using a flint lock rifle I took it out today for my first shoot and I got a couple of hang fires. So my question is which way should the bevel on the flint face up or down at the moment the bevel is facing up in the hammer. I think this may be wrong as it seems to be chipping the flint that is why I would like to check with some who knows.:-?
hang fires are usually a touch hole problem.
The rake of the flint is determined by the curvature of the hammer & Frizzen
Need pics for that kind of chat. It can be either or, or both depending on the flint
Hang fire is produced by the powder not being seated up in the flash hole (inside the barrel)
AND OR
The pan powder not lying in the pan properly, along with a partially compacted load.
Attachment 66359
If the flint is positioned properly in the cock it will not matter whether the bevel is up or down on it. I have a couple of flinters, and I shoot the flints both ways on both guns, when the flint doesn't spark as well as I would like, I turn it over. I use every edge of the flint on both the beveled and flat sides. The flint just has to be positioned in the cock properly each time you reset the flint, and only your gun can tell you what position that is. Also Mike is correct in his statement about hang fires usually being a touch hole problem.
Best wishes,
Joe
I did notice that after a couple of shots that is when it failed to ignite the pan charge I had to wipe powder residue off the frizzen and flint, could I be over priming the pan and will this residue be a probable cause.Quote:
Originally Posted by Boerrancher
I found out a long time ago that you don't want to put too much powder in the pan. You'll get delayed/hang fires and misfires. They call it a flash pan for a reason. Try using less powder there and see what happens. I'll bet it gets better.Quote:
Originally Posted by Neo
Idealy you wan maximum flint contact with the frizzen and the flint to point as muuch to the center of the pan as possible, so flint placment is usually a compromise. As Boer said in a good lock it makes little difference, and for that matter it doesn't make much difference in a poor lock either! I would start with the flint pointed as close to the center of the pan as possible and see how that works first. If we knew what lock you have it would make a diffeence as some locks have problems from the factory. The Navy Arms Harpers ferry lock is a prime example. Over 1/2 I have worked on needed the frizzen rehardened right off the shelf. a weak spark that doesn't dance in the pan is a good indication. Work with the gun to see where it likes the priming charge to lie and make sure the touch hole is in the right spot. You can't go wrong with reading the whole flintlock sticky here as a good starter.
All good advice so far. Just make sure the flint is positioned so that it contacts the frizzen at about a 60 degree angle; head on hits cause damage to flint and frizzen. The flint should also have at least 2/3 rds of the frizzen to scrape. I use about 1/4 th to 1/3 rd pan full of prime; more than that can cause hang fires as can too small of a touch hole (1/16" is about ideal) or a fouled touch hole.
I put the flint in with wet leather, let it dry and it hugs tight. some use sheet lead but I find leather is better. I like to put the point up not down. now..full cock the gun, unloaded, and use a kife to hit the edge downward all along the edge. knapping the edge to a razor sharp edge. Now. wipe the frizzen and flint with rubbing alcohol. I keep a small jar in my possible bag.
Don't use a lot of priming powder, less is better. the flame hits the barrel hole from the top not the middle of a bunch of powder. fast and accurate....Ken
If I put up some brain tan buckskin for sale for using in flinters, would anyone be interested? It holds better than commercial tanned leather.
I would be, Ric!
I'll dig some out, and put it up for sale. I may make more or less pre-cut, and figure a fair price.
i would be interested too Ric.
Andy
The traditional way to clamp a flint in place is bevel up. When hammer is in half cock. Set its flint edge 1/16th inch away from its frizzen.
The conventional way to hold a flint in place is with leather. I go about it a little differently.
I flatten a lead ball to less than leather thickness fashion it around the flint. Clamp lightly in its cock jaws as to make a pattern in the lead. Remove flint and its lead wrap in one piece. Adjust for better lead to flint fit & trim and re-clamp it into its cock a second and final time. I've noticed a much improved change in the amount of spark from my coil spring lock. Dependability has also improved from shot to shot. I've been told by a few flint shooters a lead wrap will increase the chance of a broken hammer or cock screw. But, I've been shooting my rifle 15 years this way without any problems incurred.
I was told bevel down is the traditional way. Just that lately most folks (me included) run them bevel up.
Anyways, OP you already have your answer. A flash in the pan is not a flint problem. In fact, if you get flash every time don't touch the flint! You are packing powder inside the touch hole, covering the touch hole with powder in the pan, or otherwise not enabling fast travel from pan to barrel.
When my flint was new ignition was instant.
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I only posted because you said you have to wipe the pan and frizzen after every few shots or it stops sparking. I wipe my pan and frizzen after EVERY shot. Flint too, though sometimes I forget and wipe every other shot.
By my flinter fires fast, fast, fast! and wiping the pan, frizzen (both surfaces), and flint is easy insurance on continued perfect performance.
Don’t fail to “poke” the touch hole thru. Every time, even when reloading after shooting at game. I carry pan primer and touch-hole poke on a lanyard around my neck. Poke then prime in almost one-movement.
After re-reading this thread. It appears it doesn't make a difference whether the bevel is up or down. As each rifle has its own preference as mentioned earlier. I honestly thought a flint mounted upside down hitting directly on its leading edge did nothing more than destroy its edge quicker. Thus reducing the amount of firing my flint was capable of. I just tried this upside down theory on my rifle here and my lock it indeed likes it better. Much better shower of spark was seen. But the flint. Its edge did incur some heavier chipping as I've thought all along would happen. I suppose that's the trade off one has to pay to see a better spark shower. Now I have to learn how to re-nap a edge on all those English flints set aside from years past that lost their first chipped edges. Yup, yet again another learning curve coming up. Always some'thin!!
O/M
I shouldn't have entered this thread: It is going to cost me some money.